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renix cps bolts

bmxdude151

NAXJA Forum User
so i lost one of mine in the bell housing. I realize these are a special bolt for spacing the cps. can i replace mine with another bolt from any hardware store without any ill effects? can there be any gains from doing this?
 
They are special bolts with a shoulder... the other part of the problem is that if you do not get it back out, it WILL wreak havoc, probably at the worst possible time. I've seen posts from people who lost one, didn't find it, and it put a hole in their bellhousing when it shook loose and got jammed in the wrong spot while the engine was running.

You can pull the inspection plate and try to get it out, or on a manual pry it away from the bellhousing slightly... another idea is to crank the engine over with a breaker bar slowly while smacking the bellhousing with a rubber mallet to try and jar it loose from wherever it's hiding.
 
They are special bolts with a shoulder... the other part of the problem is that if you do not get it back out, it WILL wreak havoc, probably at the worst possible time. I've seen posts from people who lost one, didn't find it, and it put a hole in their bellhousing when it shook loose and got jammed in the wrong spot while the engine was running.

You can pull the inspection plate and try to get it out, or on a manual pry it away from the bellhousing slightly... another idea is to crank the engine over with a breaker bar slowly while smacking the bellhousing with a rubber mallet to try and jar it loose from wherever it's hiding.

I'm with Ken, get that bolt outta there. It will cause an issue.
 
Just remove the inspection plate and use a telescoping magnet to get it out, DO NOT LEAVE it in there.
 
ya the plan was to get it out asap but the pressing issue was getting it running at the moment. so a regular bolt should work just fine then.

As a "temporary"--get it home--fix, yes.

Recycler or dealership for a replacement.
 
What I'm saying is - if you start that thing with it in there, it will probably come out within seconds or minutes. Spinning at 750rpm (idle) you're looking at around 100 Gs of force - that's 100 times the force of gravity - and that bolt WILL find its way out, and then it's all luck whether it falls to the bottom harmlessly or gets jammed endwise between the converter/flexplate and the bellhousing, resulting in a hole punched in it.

Don't turn this from a bad day to a worse day, get it out of there the right way before you start it.
 
ya the plan was to get it out asap but the pressing issue was getting it running at the moment. so a regular bolt should work just fine then.

That is the last thing you want to do, until you get that lost bolt out. Otherwise just toss some Trinitrotoluene in there and run like hell, it would be just as effective as cranking it if you want to see spark fly.
 
I am Irish. i just couldnt think of any other way to shake it loose from wherever it was other than splitting the transmission from the engine. either way it worked out for me. i am glad however that i didnt run it with it in there because theres almost no room in there for that bolt.
 
For future readers of this post, when you change the CPS: 1) do it on a cold engine /transmission/ exhaust pipe unless you like roasted right forearm. 2) There is a small plate bolted to the transmission that holds two electrical plugs in place, one is the CPS plug. Remove this plate by its 13mm bolt to get easier access and visibility of the CPS, then re-bolt it into place at the end of the process. 3) Wrap 1" wide blue masking tape around the top of the 11mm socket, leaving 1/4 inch of tape sticking out above the top of the socket. Put the bolt in the socket and tape down the bolt head. This will hold the bolt in the socket until you get it started and will keep you from dropping it into the bell housing hole. 4) For the CPS bolts I used the 11mm socket, 3"extension, universal adapter, then two long extensions and ratchet to have enough length to access the two CPS bolts. 5) Don't connect the electrical plugs until after the new CPS is secured in place, but rather put the wire/plug on the forward side of the bell housing to help keep the new CPS in place as you are getting the bolts back in. Replacing this part is, as the Brits say, "fiddly". If you get frustrated, like any other difficult job on the XJ, walk away from it for a while.
 
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I can actually reach up there from the bottom side with my hand and get the bolts started. It is a lot safer if the CPS dust cover is still on the bell housing!!!!
 
I can actually reach up there from the bottom side with my hand and get the bolts started. It is a lot safer if the CPS dust cover is still on the bell housing!!!!
x2

head behind the driver tire, feet pointing toward the rearend, left arm up over the bellhousing to guide bolts in place, right arm on the ratchet. 5 minutes to change a CPS... 10 on a hot engine.
 
For future readers of this post, when you change the CPS: 1) do it on a cold engine /transmission/ exhaust pipe unless you like roasted right forearm. 2) There is a small plate bolted to the transmission that holds two electrical plugs in place, one is the CPS plug. Remove this plate by its 13mm bolt to get easier access and visibility of the CPS, then re-bolt it into place at the end of the process. 3) Wrap 1" wide blue masking tape around the top of the 11mm socket, leaving 1/4 inch of tape sticking out above the top of the socket. Put the bolt in the socket and tape down the bolt head. This will hold the bolt in the socket until you get it started and will keep you from dropping it into the bell housing hole. 4) For the CPS bolts I used the 11mm socket, 3"extension, universal adapter, then two long extensions and ratchet to have enough length to access the two CPS bolts. 5) Don't connect the electrical plugs until after the new CPS is secured in place, but rather put the wire/plug on the forward side of the bell housing to help keep the new CPS in place as you are getting the bolts back in. Replacing this part is, as the Brits say, "fiddly". If you get frustrated, like any other difficult job on the XJ, walk away from it for a while.

Excellent advice.
 
^ Thanks Sand Dog^ I am now ready to replace my 25 year old CPS with an OEM high altitude CPS, plus making the 3/8" hole mod of Cruiser54. I am sure it won't take 5 minutes like someone posted, but I will report back with a success story:)

Love NAXJA!
 
So what's that old saying? "If it's not broke, don't fix it". Anybody who can replace one of these in a half hour, much less 5 minutes is a hero of mine. I have spent over an hour trying to get a combination of extensions, u joint etc on that top bolt, and I am out of patience. I know it can be done, but my damn Jeep is running like a scalded cat now, so that super HP producing high altitude CPS is going to have to wait.

At least I know where the CPS is now,:lecture: and the old one says RENIX on top. Hope Bendix made that sucker and it lasts forever.

Maybe when I have more patience, but I think I will work on getting my headliner recovered:)
 
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