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4 Low wont Engage properly

B

BoBDoG2o02

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Lancaster, PA
when i put my('96 2door 4liter 5speed) into 4 lo it pops out of lo range and makes some awfull banging noises.


Where should i start. I've also heard there is a Vacuum involved with the shift??


I've heard some interesting stuff on other forums but i'd like to hear it here.

??? Trans mount?
Linkage???
Internal Chain/selector fork?
 
bad trans mount could let the trans sag a bit and make it not fully go into 4low, especially if you've got a tcase drop on it, because of the linkage. it's very easy to adjust I would start there. with the jeep off and the trans in neutral yank it into 4low, then loosen the adjuster bolt on the linkage. loosen it until the shift arm on the case is solidly into its position and then tighten it back down. if your trans mount is going to crap change that out first.

chances are if you've had to replace your motor mounts your trans mount is hosed, one problem creates another.
 
GrimJeeper has you on the right track.

FSM adjustment of TC shifter (paraphrasing):

Remove shifter bezel.

Shift into 4LO, place a 1/8" drill bit behind the shifter against the shifter gate and secure the shifter in place against the drill bit (use a bungee cord).

Go under the vehicle and loosen the locking bolt on the adjuster rod--make sure the adjuster will slide along the rod and isn't rusted in position.

ENSURE that the TC is in fact fully shifted into 4LO. I grab the shift tab with water pump pliers--large, slip-joint pliers.

Lock down the locking bolt.

Remove the bungee cord and 1/8" drill bit.

Replace the bezel.

TEST.

Good luck.
 
You neglected to say if its a 231 or 242 if its a 231 these guys have you on the right track. If its a 242 its quite common for them to fail in this manor.
 
joe_peters said:
I grab the shift tab with water pump pliers--large, slip-joint pliers.
Click to expand...

Joe, you are the only other man other than my father i've known to call a big pair of slip joints water pump pliers. I'm adding a whole pile of old man cred to the already huge amount of respect I have for you sir.

:cheers:
 
GrimmJeeper said:
Joe, you are the only other man other than my father i've known to call a big pair of slip joints water pump pliers. I'm adding a whole pile of old man cred to the already huge amount of respect I have for you sir.

:cheers:
Click to expand...
Right back at you! :cheers:
 
souske said:
Dumb question:
why are they water pump.pliers?

Usefull on a waterpump of antiquated design?
Click to expand...

No such thing as a dumb question.

By the numbers:

1. Because that is what my Dad called them.

2. They are great for holding onto a water pump shaft/hub when trying to loosen bolts.

3. There are a number of different names for the same slip-joint pliars, in fact, channel-lock was (reportedly) the original name for them, and that name became the company/brand Channellock.
 
Thanks for the insight guys. I sprayed the linkages down with PB Blaster and let it sit for half an hour. Then recruited my wife to move the shifter.........long story short the adjuster is seized. Cant move the pinch nut assembly on the rod. Looked for some replacement linkage assemblies and had little luck but found the Novak sk2xc kit. I ordered the kit saturday. Hope it comes for my day off on the 4th. Do any of you guys run this kit. if so any install/adjustment tips? http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/shifters/sk2xc.htm
 
BoBDoG2o02 said:
Thanks for the insight guys. I sprayed the linkages down with PB Blaster and let it sit for half an hour. Then recruited my wife to move the shifter.........long story short the adjuster is seized. Cant move the pinch nut assembly on the rod. Looked for some replacement linkage assemblies and had little luck but found the Novak sk2xc kit. I ordered the kit saturday. Hope it comes for my day off on the 4th. Do any of you guys run this kit. if so any install/adjustment tips? http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/shifters/sk2xc.htm
Click to expand...

also i got it to adjust a little the wrong way during my battle. so now it wont even take 4lo at all. just grinds so i'm fairly certain this was the problem.
 
you won't be disappointed that novak kit is top of the line goodness. just follow the instructions everything will work out great.
 
BoBDoG2o02 said:
also i got it to adjust a little the wrong way during my battle. so now it wont even take 4lo at all. just grinds so i'm fairly certain this was the problem.
Click to expand...

NO PROBLEMA!

Crawl under there with a pry bar and some PB Blaster.

Hose down the lower linkage rod where it enters the shift tab on the TC.

Using the pry bar, pry the lower linkage rod out of the shifter tab on the TC.

Then, using the pry bar or your trusty water pump pliers you can crawl under your rig and shift it all you want and you won't loose your wheelin' weekend. :D
 
BoBDoG2o02 said:
Thanks for the insight guys. I sprayed the linkages down with PB Blaster and let it sit for half an hour. Then recruited my wife to move the shifter.........long story short the adjuster is seized. Cant move the pinch nut assembly on the rod. Looked for some replacement linkage assemblies and had little luck but found the Novak sk2xc kit. I ordered the kit saturday. Hope it comes for my day off on the 4th. Do any of you guys run this kit. if so any install/adjustment tips? http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/shifters/sk2xc.htm
Click to expand...

That's pretty... you just showed me a new product. Makes me wish I didn't cheap out on new linkage bushings instead, particularly looking at all the rust on my linkage. Wish I had the money!
 
Welllll..... I installed the kit and still no 4Lo. It takes it but still does the pop boom bang. I seems to act better when i lock in with reverse instead of 1st gear, I think the pads on the selector fork are shot. Once i had it eject itself from 4lo completely.

Also, the throw on this kit seems to be off. Has anyone had to reduce the radius on the selector arm bracket at the transfer case to make this work right???
 
BoBDoG2o02 said:
Welllll..... I installed the kit and still no 4Lo. It takes it but still does the pop boom bang. I seems to act better when i lock in with reverse instead of 1st gear, I think the pads on the selector fork are shot. Once i had it eject itself from 4lo completely.

Also, the throw on this kit seems to be off. Has anyone had to reduce the radius on the selector arm bracket at the transfer case to make this work right???
Click to expand...

I have this cable kit and love it. It went on the 231 T-case with no problems. Do be sure you have the linkage on the correct side if the arm on the T-case. Since I now have a 241, I can't remember if it was that case, or the 231, where the link pin can go on either side of the shift arm. It will cause problems if it is on the wrong side.

Also, make sure the bolts holding the bracket on the T-case have sufficient threads. One of my bolts was a bit short, and pulled out of the case when shifting. The holes in the T-case housing are very deep, so it won't hurt to go to a longer bolt.

David Bricker / SYR
 
BoBDoG2o02 said:
Welllll..... I installed the kit and still no 4Lo. It takes it but still does the pop boom bang. I seems to act better when i lock in with reverse instead of 1st gear, I think the pads on the selector fork are shot. Once i had it eject itself from 4lo completely.

Also, the throw on this kit seems to be off. Has anyone had to reduce the radius on the selector arm bracket at the transfer case to make this work right???
Click to expand...

Contact tech support and get their input.
 
If you want to rule out the linkage completely, disconnect the linkage and shift it into 4Lo with pliers (please don't do this while the jeep is in gear.)

If you have the same problem, something is wrong with your transfer case.
 
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