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Anyone used HDPE for cargo organization/storage?

anthrax323

anthrax323

NAXJA Forum User
Location
San Antonio, TX
After my last over-engineered storage system for the back of my XJ, I've been brainstorming simpler ideas that involve removing the back seat entirely and flattening the whole cargo area... I really don't want to use plywood for rot and durability concerns, which made me turn my attention to HDPE.

I found black HDPE marine decking sheet that costs $232 for a 54" x 96" x 0.50" piece, which would be plenty for the project. Anyone ever used HDPE for this purpose? Seems like it weighs a lot (my rough calculations put that sheet at up to 90 lbs), but that's not a huge concern (an equivalent sheet of typical plywood would weigh about 60 lbs).

Ultimately, this would cover the entire cargo area floor up to the center console, and serve as a base for my Engel fridge (to which I'll bolt a drawer/slide for it). I'm thinking 1/2" would be plenty thick strength-wise - maybe even overkill?
 
Well, I 1/2" plywood with some urethane rolled onto it & industrial carpet tacked onto it would hold up fine. That said, I'm sure HDPE will work too. If you build the section forward of the cargo area right, you should be able to haul Dana 44s around no problem.
What's the plan for the backseat to console area? bit of a vertical drop from the cargo area, will need some structure I'd think.
 
Absolutely - bins will be constructed in the passenger footwells to support the front end of the platform. I'm thinking a small spine on the drive tunnel, or laterally along the top edge of the original seat bottom support (leading edge). The only weight that will really be on that section would be my dog the majority of the time, and he weighs in at around 60 lbs.

I'm trying to avoid committing to a complex drawer/bin system just because I've learned over the years that my cargo needs are more dynamic than I originally thought. Bins are still in the plan for the rear cargo area behind each wheel well. Once I've built a small offroad trailer I've been designing (dry cut saw arrives Friday, woot!), this may impact my interior storage plans even further.
 
things to know is it seems to grow and shrink A LOT with temperature changes. My boatsides are 1/2 hdpe and it looks like a skate park when it's hot out. and it deforms with any constant weight on it. doesnt seem to matter how much. i wouldnt use it personally.
 
I'd think that a spine along the seat frame, a vertical running behind seats & center console, & connective bits along the door would be plenty. add a hinge over that area to access the goodies & call it good.
 
Vanimal said:
things to know is it seems to grow and shrink A LOT with temperature changes. My boatsides are 1/2 hdpe and it looks like a skate park when it's hot out. and it deforms with any constant weight on it. doesnt seem to matter how much. i wouldnt use it personally.
Click to expand...
Jesus, really? I would've thought that it'd be more resilient than that. Got any pics of your boatsides while warped?

Also, I've seen semi trailer/mass transit flooring that is some type of composite material but can't find any details on what the hell it is. Anyone know of any other materials I should look into?

Warping might not be a huge concern in this application because of the fact that it'll sit on the sheetmetal floor of the vehicle, but I'd really prefer to find a more thermally-stable material if it exists. If not, marine-grade plywood might be my best bet.
 
i'll try to get some pics for you later today, assuming it's hot out enough.
 
Vanimal said:
things to know is it seems to grow and shrink A LOT with temperature changes. My boatsides are 1/2 hdpe and it looks like a skate park when it's hot out. and it deforms with any constant weight on it. doesnt seem to matter how much. i wouldnt use it personally.
Click to expand...

I'd second this. Ironically, I attmepted to use 4x8 sheets of 1/4" HDPE to surface the mid-life crisis . . . er, I mean "mini halfpipe" I built in my back yard. Got sick of having to replace the plywood EVERY year. Anyway, the thing is, you just CANNOT screw this stuff down and expect it to stay flat. Even if you try to accomodate the expansion/contraction by creating larger holes to allow for it . . . it won't be enough. :dunce:

You also can't glue it down, because one of the "benefits" of HDPE is that NOTHING on earth sticks to it. A helpful guy from 3M explained to me that it's more or less chemically impossible.

The HDPE is tough as hell, but it expands and contracts like a MOTHER and to such an extent that it's just impractical for most uses. Which sucks, because I felt like I was going to get some bonus point for being "green" and using recycled materials to resurface the ramp.

Oh well, let my loss be your gain.
 
"Steel is the King of building materials, and Plywood is the Queen. It is during measurement that the King and Queen first kiss" --Tom Sachs in his Youtube short "10 bullets"
 
I did a little dumpster diving at my local spray bedliner business. They have lots of free HDPE bedliners that can be cut to fit with a jigsaw. Since they are ribbed, they do a great job of liquid containment if cut and fit correctly.
 
What about UHMW? I have seen sheets used for flat bed trucks and it seems to hold up to the heat and its strong stuff. Its just a little slick.
 
souske said:
For a 1/2 pipe, masonite and urethane work well
are you painting all surfaces?
Click to expand...

Man, I've tried everything. I've tried masonite with many coats of urethane, plain plywood with many coats of urethane, plain plywood with "porch paint," tarps, etc. . .

I'll admit that it's completely possible that since I'm old and frail now, I'm being a complete diva and demanding that the riding surface be perfect, but I don't like taking unnecessary risks now that I have kids (halfpipe itself notwithstanding). If I want to keep myself in denial of my actual age, I think I'm eventually going to have to bite the bullet and go with skatelite or ramp armor or some equally ridiculously expensive resin-based surface material.

Or I could just admit that Dad was right all those years ago when he told me that building a halfpipe in the back yard really was a stupid idea.

I should have just gone with the pool. :doh:
 
anthrax323 said:
. I really don't want to use plywood for rot and durability concerns, which made me turn my attention to HDPE.
Anyone ever used HDPE for this purpose? Seems like it weighs a lot (my rough calculations put that sheet at up to 90 lbs),
I'm thinking 1/2" would be plenty thick strength-wise - maybe even overkill?
Click to expand...
It will work fine but it is heavy and slippery, so make sure to install a bunch of tie-down points.
I used 1/2" painted exterior plywood, covered with indoor/outdoor carpeting for the back my XJ. It gets used almost daily for carrying my work tools and off-road boxes and has held up for many years.
What kind of rot issues are you having? If the interior is getting and staying wet, I would be worried about the floor and body rusting. If water gets under the non-breathable HDPE, it will stay wet. Plywood and carpeting are much more breathable.
 
http://m439.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/ravenccorax/cargo floor storage/100_0914.jpg.html?o=0

like 15 pics. only thing i would change is use better hinges that didnt rust and cause the tiny ass screws to strip out of the osb. next time quality hinges and marine ply. in france they used the xj as a cargo delivery van and hidden in the jeep computer catalogs there is metal plate to delete the rear seats and extend the floor.

i can fit a twin size air bed in back and sleep comfortable. fit a d30 and a xj d44. a one yard concrete mixer.
 
How about Marine Grade plywood?

Safety Devices uses it as the flooring for theLand Rover roof racks they manufacture. In fact, they used it for the Defender and Discovery racks on the Camel Trophy vehicles.
 
Thanks for all the input guys - marine grade ply is probably going to be the best option.

RaVenCCorax said:
http://m439.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/ravenccorax/cargo floor storage/100_0914.jpg.html?o=0

like 15 pics. only thing i would change is use better hinges that didnt rust and cause the tiny ass screws to strip out of the osb. next time quality hinges and marine ply. in france they used the xj as a cargo delivery van and hidden in the jeep computer catalogs there is metal plate to delete the rear seats and extend the floor.

i can fit a twin size air bed in back and sleep comfortable. fit a d30 and a xj d44. a one yard concrete mixer.
Click to expand...
You have me intrigued, sir. Any chance you know where you might be able to find that part number?
 
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