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Help with my xj lift project..

4x4 XJ

4x4 XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Carson, CA
Hey all, I need some help and advise with my lift project... this is a 3" lift from rocky road outfitters. This might be simple questions to many of you.. but this is my first lift ever.

1) the pin on the lower part of the lift block is two wide for the hole where it needs to sit...do I grind the oin to make it of make the hole bigger..
20130618_220405-1_zps97e71564.jpg



2) how do I change the bolt in the middle of the spring pack and what size is it..
20130618_220703-1_zps256373bb.jpg



Thank you all in advance for any help..
 
Ok so I'm going to work backwards, to change the center pin out just clamp the spring pack with one or two C clamps. Then remove the old bolt (by whatever means necessary) then simply install the new bolt and tighten down.

Now in the first pic, it looks like you have a space block there. If so then it goes on the axle under the spring pal, the pin will sit in the axle locating hole and the top should have a hole for the axle center pin to sit in which locates the able to the spring pack and keeps everything centered up.

I hope that helps. Feel free to ask anymore questions you might have.
 
Normally it would be much easier to make the hole bigger than make the pin smaller.

However, If I understand correctly, it's the pin on the lift block that is too big?

I've never tried to drill a leaf spring, I would imagine you can do it with a cobalt drill. Just run it slow with moderate pressure and use oil. Don't go any deeper than necessary.
 
Last edited:
drill the blocks not the springs or grind the pins. orw and 4wheel parts has new procomp leaf pins for under $15.00

as previously stated 1 or two c clamps on either side of the broken pin tightly holding the spring pack together. use a drift punch and hammer to knoc out the old pin. replace with the new pin blue loctight and torque it down and cut off the excess threads on the pin.
set the lift blocks on the axle and then the leaf on the lift block. secure with new ubolts and lock nuts torque and cut off the excess threads and bam, done.
 
jumpnjeep said:
Ok so I'm going to work backwards, to change the center pin out just clamp the spring pack with one or two C clamps. Then remove the old bolt (by whatever means necessary) then simply install the new bolt and tighten down.

Now in the first pic, it looks like you have a space block there. If so then it goes on the axle under the spring pal, the pin will sit in the axle locating hole and the top should have a hole for the axle center pin to sit in which locates the able to the spring pack and keeps everything centered up.

I hope that helps. Feel free to ask anymore questions you might have.
Click to expand...

Ok I will try to get center pin out today..thanks.
 
Original_MudButt said:
Normally it would be much easier to make the hole bigger than make the pin smaller.

However, If I understand correctly, it's the pin on the lift block that is too big?

I've never tried to drill a leaf spring, I would imagine you can do it with a cobalt drill. Just run it slow with moderate pressure and use oil. Don't go any deeper than necessary.
Click to expand...

Yes the block pin is too big. i ll try to make the hole on xj bigger.
 
Okay, your pic kinda screwed me up. It's the hole in the spring perch on the axle that mates with the pin in the block, correct?

If so, I would rather find a smaller pin than modify the axle. Just in case you decide to change out the blocks/springs further down the road, you will want the perch to remain factory.

This begs the question though... Why doesn't the pin fit properly in the first place?

If it seems really close, perhaps it's just a thick coat of paint?

Another option is to take the block to a machine shop and have them turn down the pin. You will need to know what diameter the hole is.
 
Original_MudButt said:
Okay, your pic kinda screwed me up. It's the hole in the spring perch on the axle that mates with the pin in the block, correct?

If so, I would rather find a smaller pin than modify the axle. Just in case you decide to change out the blocks/springs further down the road, you will want the perch to remain factory.
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same thing, the pin on the block is wider then hole on the perch..I al goingbto try and see if I can grind down the block pin and see it works..
 
Take it slow and do a good job. You don't want much slop between the pin and the hole. If things start to move around under load you could wallow out the hole and/or shear off the pin.

But personally, I would be on the phone with Rocky Road and find out why these parts don't fit properly.
 
Ok so I was told rocky road that I had to grind the block pin down in order to make it fit. And I got a new set of leaf pins..
 
Just a word of caution. The lift block appears to be 3 pieces of plate steel tacked on the ends then drilled for the pin. The 1st problem with blocks and spacers stacked is they create a lot of unnecessary added torque (load up) on the springs. The movement back and forth is hard on them when you crawl, then when you back if stuck, ect... If you will be seriously wheeling you will want to re-torque your u bolts every outing if not every other one. The other problem is that the leverage created if you do not re-torque often enough will walk the plates after the weld breaks. Believe me I know. The weld will eventually break from fatigue and corrosion. Been there done that. Also I see you got the bolt in. Spring bolts are available in all sizes and head sizes so you can repack springs of any axle size from little trailers to big rigs. You'd be better off with a machined block but the best way is a spring rearched, besides you will get more travel from a longer reached spring. Lastly when you grind a hardened spring bolt you will weaken it from the heat of the grinding. No matter how little or more the heat changes the composition of the metal. How much depends on the quality of the bolt. I always carry extras because I have broken some. Good luck.
 
Last edited:
Boss Cherokee said:
Just a word of caution. The lift block appears to be 3 pieces of plate steel tacked on the ends then drilled for the pin. The 1st problem with blocks and spacers stacked is they create a lot of unnecessary added torque (load up) on the springs. The movement back and forth is hard on them when you crawl, then when you back if stuck, ect... If you will be seriously wheeling you will want to re-torque your u bolts every outing if not every other one. The other problem is that the leverage created if you do not re-torque often enough will walk the plates after the weld breaks. Believe me I know. The weld will eventually break from fatigue and corrosion. Been there done that. Also I see you got the bolt in. Spring bolts are available in all sizes and head sizes so you can repack springs of any axle size from little trailers to big rigs. You'd be better off with a machined block but the best way is a spring rearched, besides you will get more travel from a longer reached spring. Lastly when you grind a hardened spring bolt you will weaken it from the heat of the grinding. No matter how little or more the heat changes the composition of the metal. How much depends on the quality of the bolt. I always carry extras because I have broken some. Good luck.
Click to expand...

Ok thanks for the advice, and I would keeo an eye on the u bolts. I did use a leaf bolt, its from rubicon..
20130619_203033_zpse49ef72b.jpg
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