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View Full Version : DIY RENIX to HO TPS modification


Monster3663
June 2nd, 2013, 23:11
This is how how I did my Renix TPS to HO Throttle Body.

Items Needed

a. (3) solid aluminum spacers from Homedepot. #10x5/16"x1" One connects to the throttle shaft and to for screw spacers. 3 at 80 cents a piece.

b. (1) 1/8 x1-/1/4 Tension pin. This is to replace wiper arms from Renix TB. 90 cents for 2.

c. Hard plastic bushing. .8 in x .68in. The main thing is that the aluminum spacers fits in it snug. It can be grinded or cut to length. They are available from ACE hardware but I didn't need them. I had some plastic cart bearings that I used.

d. Two 1-1/2 inch screws with hex heads #43103Q. 90 cents a piece.

http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t581/Monsterjeepz/1TPS_zpsa78c9b94.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/Monsterjeepz/media/1TPS_zpsa78c9b94.jpg.html)

1. Wallow out the inside edges of the screw holes on the Renix TPS. The holes on the HO throttle body are slightly closer together.

http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t581/Monsterjeepz/2TPS_zps12924851.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/Monsterjeepz/media/2TPS_zps12924851.jpg.html)

2. Cut bushing down to approximately 5/8 in.

http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t581/Monsterjeepz/3TPS_zpsd4185429.jpg (http://s1
315.photobucket.com/user/Monsterjeepz/media/3TPS_zpsd4185429.jpg.html)

3. Dremel out one of the aluminum spacers to fit the shaft on the throttle shaft.

http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t581/Monsterjeepz/4TPS_zps512b8016.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/Monsterjeepz/media/4TPS_zps512b8016.jpg.html)

4. Insert the aluminum piece into the plastic bushing.

http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t581/Monsterjeepz/5TPS_zps638c9363.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/Monsterjeepz/media/5TPS_zps638c9363.jpg.html)

5. Place on shaft of TB mark and cut off excess.

http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t581/Monsterjeepz/6TPS_zps2246f3ff.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/Monsterjeepz/media/6TPS_zps2246f3ff.jpg.html)
http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t581/Monsterjeepz/9TPS_zpsf2d216d8.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/Monsterjeepz/media/9TPS_zpsf2d216d8.jpg.html)

6. Put a small amount of epoxy on both pieces and put on TB shaft. Measure distance from TB to TPS and trim aluminum spacers.

http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t581/Monsterjeepz/10TPS_zpsb47787f3.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/Monsterjeepz/media/10TPS_zpsb47787f3.jpg.html)
http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t581/Monsterjeepz/12TPS_zps2fc0cbb4.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/Monsterjeepz/media/12TPS_zps2fc0cbb4.jpg.html)

7. Put all together. Use a 12 volt power supply and then hook-up multimeter like shown.

http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t581/Monsterjeepz/13TPS_zps954a9a50.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/Monsterjeepz/media/13TPS_zps954a9a50.jpg.html)

8. Move arm on TPS until you have the correct voltage for engine at idle. I went with .71 volts for wiggle room later after. It should be .75volts. Mark the TB and the black bushing. The mark on TB is for reference later after you put on new wiper on TB shaft. The mark on bushing is where you are going to drill for tension pin.

http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t581/Monsterjeepz/14TPS_zps72efd963.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/Monsterjeepz/media/14TPS_zps72efd963.jpg.html)

9. Drill hole for tension pin all they way through just past the inside of aluminum spacer. Use drill bit slightly smaller than the tension pin.

http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t581/Monsterjeepz/15TPS_zpsc8e496a8.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/Monsterjeepz/media/15TPS_zpsc8e496a8.jpg.html)

10. Tap in the tension pin.

http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t581/Monsterjeepz/17TPS_zpsd4132a0e.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/Monsterjeepz/media/17TPS_zpsd4132a0e.jpg.html)

11. Put the assembly back together and hook the multimeter back up.

http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t581/Monsterjeepz/20TPS_zpsc0509061.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/Monsterjeepz/media/20TPS_zpsc0509061.jpg.html)

12. Adjust as needed. That should be it.

5-90
June 3rd, 2013, 15:50
Sounds useful - but what thread pitch are the screws? They're probably metric (ISO,) so I'm thinking about an M4-0.6, but I'm sure other enquiring minds want to know...

Monster3663
June 3rd, 2013, 16:33
M5-0.80 x 40 - Metric Socket Head Cap Screw

5-90
June 3rd, 2013, 18:13
M5? I thought they were M4!

And that's why we should confirm sizes...

Monster3663
June 3rd, 2013, 18:30
Best bet is to do like I did and take the old shorter one with you match up the thread and then get one that's longer.

5-90
June 4th, 2013, 15:55
Best bet is to do like I did and take the old shorter one with you match up the thread and then get one that's longer.

True - but not all hardware stores have thread gages, half of the ones that do have stripped gages, and some look at you funny when you try to run a screw through a bagged nut or something...

Paintballpsyco2369
June 16th, 2013, 06:57
Holy hell I LOVE this writeup dude!! lol. Still have to do this myself. After the winter hiatus on my project, I am getting back at it now. Though now that I am working once again it makes it kind of hard to get out there as much as I would like to lol. Anyhow, I have been reading through a bunch of writeups for doing just this and so far this is the simplest one I have come across. Well aside from the $140 adapter that Hesco makes that is lol.

I had come across this somehow too: http://www.ebay.com/itm/200604334414?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 It looked like it may work so was contemplating buying it to give it a go. I just like the idea of plug and play with my build and if this would work, I would rather pay that than the Hesco price tag lol. Haven't quite gotten around to going back to the engine stuff yet though, still gotta finish my floors so will revisit the idea lol. Will probably go the route you posted though, a HELL of a lot cheaper lol.

Paint

Monster3663
June 16th, 2013, 19:39
Looks like an alternative, the only problem I see is the part were the wires come out on bottom may hit the throttle body and take away from your adjustment. Do you know of anyone who has tried this. The voltage may be a different range too.

Devilfrog
June 17th, 2013, 00:35
never mind ... misread again.

Paintballpsyco2369
June 23rd, 2013, 16:18
Looks like an alternative, the only problem I see is the part were the wires come out on bottom may hit the throttle body and take away from your adjustment. Do you know of anyone who has tried this. The voltage may be a different range too.
Perhaps. Didn't even notice that lol. No one that I know has tried it. Thought we could order it at work which would simplify returning if it didn't work, but apparently we can't lol. No clue on the voltage either. May just give it a go and see what happens...

Paint

Monster3663
June 23rd, 2013, 19:30
Plan A. I was going to convert to HO intake by doing this. Now I'm going do a complete change over. I just picked up a T-boned 1998 with a 120k on it. Plan B. Now I'm completely changing everything. Going from a 1990 5 speed RENIX to a 1998 HO automatic. Make me an offer for the HO throttle body with mod and I will throw it in a priority mail box and send it.

PM me.

xjtrailrider
November 5th, 2013, 15:24
If I can make the RENIX TPS work with the HO TB, what do I do about the MAP and IAC?

I'm putting a 98 HO in my 89 MJ and would love to run the HO intake/TB. I just don't know what to do with the MAP/IAC

Any input?

MT Mike
November 11th, 2013, 18:16
If I can make the RENIX TPS work with the HO TB, what do I do about the MAP and IAC?

I'm putting a 98 HO in my 89 MJ and would love to run the HO intake/TB. I just don't know what to do with the MAP/IAC

Any input?

I'd like to hear an answer on this question as well.

Mesh
November 11th, 2013, 19:18
MAP is easy needs to be plugged in somewhere on the intake. My HO TB had a spare barb I used.

I remember there being a difference between the RENIX and HO IAC. I think I used one from the HO because the RENIX doesn't extend far enough.

xjtrailrider
November 12th, 2013, 02:29
MAP is easy needs to be plugged in somewhere on the intake. My HO TB had a spare barb I used.

I remember there being a difference between the RENIX and HO IAC. I think I used one from the HO because the RENIX doesn't extend far enough.

Can I get a pic of your setup? How does it run with the HO intake/TB?

cruiser54
November 12th, 2013, 05:08
I've been getting my Renix throttle bodies bored out, with bigger butterflies from www.strokedjeep.com (http://www.strokedjeep.com). 60mm versus the 52 mm of the Renix and 58mm of the HO. The hole in the Renix manifold is already 60mm anyway.

$100 exchange or so.

Mesh
November 12th, 2013, 15:40
Can I get a pic of your setup? How does it run with the HO intake/TB?

I can't take any pictures at the moment I have the engine pulled. I was using a 99+ intake and a bored 63mm HO TB. Seemed to work great with my engine.

AIbandit
January 8th, 2014, 11:46
Can this get tossed in the FAQ? I know we've lost other adapter build pics and this one looks like the best yet.