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Camshaft Quality

cm12385

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Groton, CT
Looking to get a general opinion from those who have used aftermarket camshafts, which brand has the best quality?

I would like to hear good and bad, which brands have a habit of wiping out lobes, poor machining, etc.

Looking for an upgrade for my 1994 4.0, but do not want to look for a specific grind until I know who is best from a quality stand point.

Thanks,

Chris
 
My Stroker got a Crane cam install.It is all about breakin really.Proper lubrication,oil,lifter preload,good amount of ZDDP..etc.Most do not imediately rev it to 3k and keep it there for a solid 3-5 minutes then every 5 minutes or so back down to 1800-2000 rpm then back up to 3k for a full 30 minutes.Drain the oil then drive for 500 miles with breakin additive Lucas is good.Then drain and use your favorite oil.I have 10k on the stroker now...no issues.

http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/breakin/548e.pdf

. Start the engine and immediately bring to 3,000 rpm. Timing should be adjusted, as closely as possible, to
reduce excessive heat or load during break-in. Get the engine running fairly smoothly and vary the engine speed
from 1500-3000 RPM in a slow, to moderate, acceleration/deceleration cycle. During this time, be sure to check
for any leaks and check out any unusual noises. If something doesn’t sound right, shut the engine off and check
out the source of the noise. Upon restart, resume the high idle speed cycling. Continue the varying “break-in”
speed for 20 - 30 minutes. This is necessary to provide proper lifter rotation to properly mate each lifter to its
lobe. Should the engine need to be shut down for any reason, upon re-start it should be immediately brought
back to 3000 rpm and the break-in continued for a total run time of 20 – 30 minutes.
8. Let the engine cool, and then drain the crankcase and properly dispose of the oil and oil filter. Refill the
crankcase with a premium petroleum-based oil, not a synthetic oil. At this point the initial “break-in” is
complete. You can drive the vehicle in your normal manner. We recommend changing the oil and filter
after 500 miles. You might want to put another 5000 miles on the cam before switching to a synthetic, if
that is your preference.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
Spring Pressures: For extended camshaft life, flat-tappet cams should not be run with more than the
recommended open valve spring pressure. Racing applications will often need to run more spring pressure at the
expense of reduced camshaft life. In order to “break-in” a camshaft with high open pressures, the inner springs
should be removed to reduce “break-in” load. The inner springs can then be reinstalled after initial “break-in” is
complete.
Lifter Rotation: Flat tappet cams (both hydraulic and mechanical) have the lobes ground on a slight taper and the
lifter appears to sit offset from the lobe centerline. This will induce a rotation of the lifter on the lobe. This rotation
draws oil to the mating surface between the lifter and the lobe. If it is possible to view the pushrods during “break-in”,
they should be spinning as an indication that the lifter is spinning. If you don’t see a pushrod spinning, immediately
stop the engine and find the cause.
Never use old flat tappet lifters on a new cam. On flat tappet cams, the lobes and lifter bottoms mate together
and if the lifters are removed from the engine, they must go back on the same lobe from which they were removed.
Crane Cams recommends the use of high quality tappets to prevent premature cam or lifter wear. Crane
tappets are of the highest quality.
 
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Just for extra measures I used Crower "Cam Saver Lifters"
CAMSAVER HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
The maximum in cam lobe and lifter life.
If high spring pressures or extreme and
unusual operating conditions have you
worried about lobe scuff and lifter wear,
insist on Crower “high-lube” CamSaver
lifters. These lifters deliver 20% to 30%
more oil to your lobe and lifter faces
for the best possible insurance against
premature lobe and lifter failure. Specially machined flats put 12 to 16 ounces
of additional oil per minute at each lobe
without adversely affecting engine oil
pressure (nominal drop of just 1 or 2
pounds). Crower CamSaver lifters incorporate the same precision ground radius
face and finish as our standard lifters to
insure quick break-in and trouble
free operation.
 
I am running this cam in my 88 Comanche. So far I'm very pleased but I'm only on my 2nd tank of gas since the rebuild. In all honesty there is not much of a difference from stock.
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/cca-cl68-232-4
i run the same cam. like you said there isnt too much of a difference but there is some difference. just dont expect it to turn into a v8 or anything
 
If you consider Comp Cam's (or any other aftermarket cam for that matter) make sure you do your research on what distributor gear to use. If you prowl around any of the Ford forums you will hear horror stories about people who had either their cam destroyed or their distributor gear shredded because of material incompatibility. This may not apply to an XJ but in the small block Ford world, Ford has standardized on a steel distributor gear and it turns out that while this works great with any Ford cam, if you put a Comp Cam in it, the steel gear on the distributor will chew the cam to pieces. Even those who hear about this and replace the steel gear with a bronze or composite gear simply move the problem to having the distributor gear get chewed up.
 
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