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96 4.7 stroker into 89 Laredo

PatrickXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Dover AFB
Hey folks,

My wife and I owned a '96 XJ that we built a 4.7L stroker for but never installed. Sadly, we ended up selling the '96 and moved across the country thanks to Uncle Sam :us: but we kept the 4.7L. Fast forward a few months, I found a smoking deal on a very clean '89 XJ with a horribly knocking 4.0L, has the Laredo package with an AW4 and I trailered it 2hrs home. The purpose of this 89 is strictly off road after the engine break-in period. We trailer our rigs to off road parks and trails, plus in Minnesota we have no emissions testing or vehicle inspection so I want to get aggressive with the 4.7L swap as far as what stays under the hood.

We now have the old 4.0L out (anyone need it?) but I'm waiting to put the stroker in until things are cleaned up. I'm seriously contemplating finding a junkyard HO Jeep and taking the intake manifold, exhaust header, COMPLETE wiring harness and PCM so I can convert this '89 to OBDII. Gauges must work, lights fully functional and it has to be reliable otherwise my wife won't drive it. I come from the LS1 scene and can't imagine what horrible things might happen with an untuned OBDI RENIX computer trying to manage the fueling needs of a stroked 4.7L.

What I really need, above all else, are tips, insight and wiring diagrams for the RENIX system and H.O. OBDII system so I can start merging harnesses. Any how-to's or past experience would really help.

If you don't have much on the important question above, I'm also working on the following items during this engine swap.
  • Trying to wrap my head around how the '89 XJ gets its braking power. There's no vacuum booster and there seems to be a monster ABS module on the passenger side fender. I want to delete this ABS module and upgrade the brakes at the same time. Add a '96+ vacuum booster and MC? Still learning this system.
  • Deleting as much emissions related as possible. Trying to simplify all the vacuum hoses, pretty up the engine bay and make it easier to work on. We're going to keep cruise control, even though it will most likely never be used at this time.
  • Fuel evap/emissions box under the hood needs to go. I'm building a fuel cell in the back and will have a 1-way vapor valve vented to atmosphere like my buggies.
  • Converting the old '89 radiator/cooling system to newer HO radiator w/cap. Doing away with surge tank.
  • Deleting all A/C. Keeping heat.
  • Relocating battery to rear cargo area.
  • Wanting to upgrade/replace/change the air intake and filter design to something more of an "under hood snorkel"...but not sticking out of the body. I think I've seen some guys go through the cowl/wiper area?

Eventually this Cherokee will be on Dana 60's, 38's, stretched and long-armed. Engine bay first though and running.
 
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YOu could do tis:

Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap
This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.
The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.
Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.
You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.
The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16" square drive or a modified 3/8" drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.
As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.
 
Revised 03/28/13
 
 
Thanks for the info.

This is still using the Renix OBDI system though correct? I'm hoping to switch to OBDII for the ease of tuning for the bigger displacement.
 
Thanks for the info.

This is still using the Renix OBDI system though correct? I'm hoping to switch to OBDII for the ease of tuning for the bigger displacement.


Renix is not OBD at all. A Renix will work fine with a stroker. My 4.6 is on the stand and will be going into a 90 Comanche.

60mm throttle body. ifferent injectors. can be tuned with adjustable MAP and fuel pressure regulator if needed.
 
Yes, cruiser is correct. Renix is pre-OBD EFI. Renix setup is WAY more forgiving than the later OBD systems.

Overall, I think that the Renix fuel setup is better than Chryco's OBD. I believe that a 99+ intake and non-EGR header/manifold will work better for the stroker. If you choose to do this and keep the Renix setup, you will need to do one of 2 things..
1. adapt the adjustable style renix TPS to the newer TB.
2. Make an adapter plate to bolt the renix TB on the later intake.
Either way, I recommend a strokedjeep.com bored TB.
 
My recommendation: Match port the Renix intake to the HO head using the Renix gasket. Get a RENIX 60mm throttle body from www.strokedjeep.com..

Other than cheaper/simpler.. Is the renix intake better than the 99+ intake?
 
Renix is not OBD at all. A Renix will work fine with a stroker. My 4.6 is on the stand and will be going into a 90 Comanche.

60mm throttle body. ifferent injectors. can be tuned with adjustable MAP and fuel pressure regulator if needed.
Can we elaborate on which injectors, more on the adjustable MAP and is there a preferred fuel pressure regulator?

So far the responses are awesome, thanks fellas.

A few notes:
-Decided to go to a '96+ dual diaphragm brake booster and a different master cylinder. Still need to decide on what size bore...will do the math later (thinking 1.125 or 1.25 though considering discs all the way around and large Chevy calipers)

-Not going to relocate the battery any longer but we are changing it's placement under the hood and how thick of cables.

-Could use some info on upgrading the stock 89 XJ alternator to something that can charge an Optima Blue Top paired with a 12k pound winch.
 
One thing to know. You must use the 87-90 flex plate running the renix injection system.the number of holes are different and renix uses a 2 wire crank sensor.if your going the Chrysler system then use the acording matching flex plate.
 
Can we elaborate on which injectors, more on the adjustable MAP and is there a preferred fuel pressure regulator?

So far the responses are awesome, thanks fellas.

A few notes:
-Decided to go to a '96+ dual diaphragm brake booster and a different master cylinder. Still need to decide on what size bore...will do the math later (thinking 1.125 or 1.25 though considering discs all the way around and large Chevy calipers)

-Not going to relocate the battery any longer but we are changing it's placement under the hood and how thick of cables.

-Could use some info on upgrading the stock 89 XJ alternator to something that can charge an Optima Blue Top paired with a 12k pound winch.

I can dig up the injector numbers if you want.

Adjustable MAP and FPR: www.strokedjeep.com
 
For a stroker, I believe the Ford bluetop 24lb injectors will work nicely.
Not sure if you are planning on running AC or not. If not, I recommend moving the alt up top in the AC location. With this you can use pretty much any ALT you want, just wire correctly. If you are looking for a stock "replacement" bolt-in in the stock location. Pretty much any GM CS-130 should work if you are going to use the Renix system/electronics.
I have seen 140A CS-130s on ebay new/used. Typically 150$ or less.
 
I did the 95-96 brake booster and master. Well worth it. Also if you have converted to rear didc you will notice a world of difference
Looking into this now actually. Rears will be disc brakes and front discs are off a late 80's Suburban with huge calipers so I'll need a vacuum booster and MC to match the axles. What's nice is that coming from a manual brake XJ, this thing has an exceptional pedal ratio = less braking effort and/or more brake pressure when a vacuum booster is added to the system. Vacuum assisted vehicles have a lesser pedal ratio. Rough measurements show 13" pedal length/2.75 pivot point = 4.72:1. :D

How are you guys feeding the brake booster with vacuum?

If a dual diaphragm XJ booster is the key, why not go larger to a 1 ton truck for example? Is there enough room for anything bigger than 9"?

I can dig up the injector numbers if you want.

Adjustable MAP and FPR: www.strokedjeep.com
Emailed the owner/sales guy of that site at [email protected]lly it's not a dead site and he gets back to me. So you think we should hold onto the Renix system eh? There's enough RELIABLE adjustability within the system to account for a larger displacement/better designed engine?

So upgrade the injectors...the throttle body....switch to an adjustable FPR....what about that MAP sensor piece of electrical genius? Worth buying & installing?

For a stroker, I believe the Ford bluetop 24lb injectors will work nicely.
Not sure if you are planning on running AC or not. If not, I recommend moving the alt up top in the AC location. With this you can use pretty much any ALT you want, just wire correctly. If you are looking for a stock "replacement" bolt-in in the stock location. Pretty much any GM CS-130 should work if you are going to use the Renix system/electronics.
I have seen 140A CS-130s on ebay new/used. Typically 150$ or less.
I'd like to keep A/C, but it will depend on how much extra money it will cost. Here in Dover Delaware it's been getting into the 90's with 100% humidity and I'm not used to this thick air yet. Though, I think relocating the alternator to the stock A/C location is the game plan, and then fab up a bracket for the A/C compressor to go where the old alternator used to be. Should fit, we'll see. Custom A/C lines will be a royal PITA though.
 
My 0.02.....take the head off of your renix motor and have it cleaned up and give it a valve job. Put the head on the 4.7 stroker and bolt everything up. Other than adjusting your tps, it should is just a matter of bolting it all up....renix systems also get better mileage and pass emissions easier (due to the egr)
 
My 0.02.....take the head off of your renix motor and have it cleaned up and give it a valve job. Put the head on the 4.7 stroker and bolt everything up. Other than adjusting your tps, it should is just a matter of bolting it all up....renix systems also get better mileage and pass emissions easier (due to the egr)

Not a bad idea.

My stroker has an HO head. I match ported the head to my Renix intake and exhaust manifolds.
 
Not a bad idea.

My stroker has an HO head. I match ported the head to my Renix intake and exhaust manifolds.

Yeah, the long blocks are all similar....just swap the head and it'll go in without drama and having to figure out things.

Just get a valve job done and clean it and the intake manifold at a shop that can put them in a tank.

I must admit.....the egr and additional fuel mileage renix has to offer is nice. I push 37s on a 4.6 renix MJ weighing 5110 pounds on tons and get 13 mpg. :)
 
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