afew years ago, I had a 01 xj come through the shop that had cv shafts instead of u joints on the front axl.. it had the command trac t-case, without abs.. I didn't get to talk to the owner, so I have no idea.. I had never seen this before, but having to change front u joints every year or so.. would be worth the expense for me.. does anybody know if this was something from an grand cherokee or something?
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u-joint to cv
- Thread starter skidj2x
- Start date
VAhasnoWAVES
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lake City, Mi
think its something from a ZJ... i know you can buy them OTK at places like advanced or autozone. they are going to be weaker than a stock shaft with a quality 760 Ujoint.
i know that cv shafts are bs/garbage compared to u joints.. but this is a highway daily driver.. and i only need 4wd in snow.. would i want to look for comparable year? my xj is 2000, so would i want to look for zj cv shafts for 2000 without full time/awd?
VAhasnoWAVES
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lake City, Mi
id look further into why your changing Ujoints on a street jeep every year instead of trying to find an alternative shaft...
but, to answer your question... it should be fine on the highway.
anything from a ZJ should work. remember, its the same D30 and knuckle as our XJs. there may/may not be some interchangability between stub shaft/unit bearings from year to year... but thats where your HW comes into play. i usually just go to the parts store, have them pull everything over the counter, and look at it myself. most reliable method ive found.
but, to answer your question... it should be fine on the highway.
anything from a ZJ should work. remember, its the same D30 and knuckle as our XJs. there may/may not be some interchangability between stub shaft/unit bearings from year to year... but thats where your HW comes into play. i usually just go to the parts store, have them pull everything over the counter, and look at it myself. most reliable method ive found.
i had another guy with an 01 zj, with a bad cv shaft, and there was a difference in shaft length between the awd model and the 4wd model, if i remember correctly, the shaft for the awd was longer than the 4wd..
at 150k im still running the original hubs, but ive changed the u joints about a dozen times since 30k.. i get tired of doing the same crap over and over.. i still havent had to change a driveshaft u joint.. its 13 years old, and i only expect to drive it everyday for the next ten years or so..
god knows jeeps current vehicle line up is a pile of crap.. and i find the new "Cherokee" insulting. fwd? transverse mounted engines? i find that personally offensive to people who know what a jeep is.
at 150k im still running the original hubs, but ive changed the u joints about a dozen times since 30k.. i get tired of doing the same crap over and over.. i still havent had to change a driveshaft u joint.. its 13 years old, and i only expect to drive it everyday for the next ten years or so..
god knows jeeps current vehicle line up is a pile of crap.. and i find the new "Cherokee" insulting. fwd? transverse mounted engines? i find that personally offensive to people who know what a jeep is.
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id look further into why your changing Ujoints on a street jeep every year instead of trying to find an alternative shaft...
im guessing junk seals on the caps, cheap u-joints.. dried up bearings ground to powder.. ill do the d/s this year, the p/s next year, d/s the following year.. the same reasons youd be doing it on a 1990s - early 2000s dodge ram, till they changed to c/v shafts.. seems the only modern 4wd's you see u-joints on the front axl are f350s and heavier..
im guessing junk seals on the caps, cheap u-joints.. dried up bearings ground to powder.. ill do the d/s this year, the p/s next year, d/s the following year.. the same reasons youd be doing it on a 1990s - early 2000s dodge ram, till they changed to c/v shafts.. seems the only modern 4wd's you see u-joints on the front axl are f350s and heavier..
- Location
- San Diego
What?
Comanchedude
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cincinnati,Ohio
I run cv in my MJ have for years I run 35" pitbull rockers and the cv shafts have held up every bit as well as the ujoint shafts I used to run. There is no issue running them in a XJ you may have to remove the abs ring ,I do on 89 hubs. They are same length no difference in axle of awd, you can get them from rock auto .
CARDONE SELECT Part # 663221
with CV Joint Design Axle
W/ or W/O ABS; with CV Joint Design Axle; Front Right
$44.99
CARDONE SELECT Part # 663221
with CV Joint Design Axle
W/ or W/O ABS; with CV Joint Design Axle; Front Right
$44.99
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
x2. Get some good Moog joints. I tried some cheaper joints once... lasted 10k miles.
No such thing as a 01 ZJ. 93-98 is ZJ, 99-04 WJ. The axle shafts are different on the WJ between varilock and not, but there is no difference in length on the ZJ, XJ, TJ.
- Location
- San Diego
Moogs are meh. Go with spicer.
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
Damn.. that is what I meant to say... I don't know why I said Moog. :dunno:
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
Yup throw in some spicer x760 non-greasables.
I threw in some x806 non-greasables in my Dodge 2500. They're still mint after 90k miles.
I threw in some x806 non-greasables in my Dodge 2500. They're still mint after 90k miles.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
If you are having issues with ujoint lifespan, you are using crap ujoints or installing them poorly. Make sure you fill the cap about halfway with good quality grease before installing, the grease included in them is only intended for shipping/stockroom protection.
CV joints aren't as strong. Even the highschool doofus mudders around here blow up CVs faster than they blow up 5-760X ujoints, they just run them because it lets them drive home with a blown shaft supposedly and lifetime warranty. I'd rather run something that doesn't blow up, or blows up less. Should work on a highway jeep, but so would installing good ujoints.
CV joints aren't as strong. Even the highschool doofus mudders around here blow up CVs faster than they blow up 5-760X ujoints, they just run them because it lets them drive home with a blown shaft supposedly and lifetime warranty. I'd rather run something that doesn't blow up, or blows up less. Should work on a highway jeep, but so would installing good ujoints.
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
First I've heard of that.
I've never added grease to Spicer joints (unless they were greasable) including the ones in my Dodge with 90k on them.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Weird. Every time I've looked in a joint I bought (spicer included), it barely had anything in it, not even enough to fill the reservoir in the hole formed in the end of the trunnion.
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
I also didn't add any to the 806s in my MJ.
Those are still mint too.
You don't need a pile of grease.
Those are still mint too.
You don't need a pile of grease.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I've never had an issue with it... ever. It just pushes past the seals if there is too much.
donthelegend
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- St. Louis, MO
I usually add a little to 760s... some pushes past the seals but not much. The greasable 5-153X I got for the driveshafts specifically said to add grease and that they only had enough for packaging purposes.
So maybe sealed joints are good to go, but greasable ones need extra grease? IDK, I'd just look at them either way and if the joint looks like its packed full don't worry about it, if it looks like it could use some more grease, add some.
So maybe sealed joints are good to go, but greasable ones need extra grease? IDK, I'd just look at them either way and if the joint looks like its packed full don't worry about it, if it looks like it could use some more grease, add some.
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