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Does the Shifter have to come off to drop the tranny?

Bronco

Bronco

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Swansboro, CA
I am in the process of dropping my tranny to do the clutch. I can’t figure out how to get the shifter off and I got to wondering if I even need to? Also what is the best way to get the inner boot off some of the screws are not very accessible.
Anyway I guess I need any tips for how to get the shifter area apart to drop the trans.

We are talking about a 98 with an AX-15

Thanks
 
I've dropped an AX-15 twice. Both times I took the shifter off. Remove the center console, remove bolts around inner boot, then under that, remove the 4 bolts holding the shifter on. It's all a tight fit and I found it WAY easier to get at the shifter bolts if I lowered the tranny approx 1 inch.

A few resources that might help:
http://borntourist.com/gallery2/v/mods/clutch/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/2001-xj-clutch-replacement-1210172/

In hindsight, the job isn't that bad if you have a transmission jack and a lot of socket extensions to take off the crank position sensor.
 
It is way easier to do with the shifter off.

Make sure you have an E12 socket to do the upper bellhousing bolts.

Getting the shifter off actually doesn't require any tools aside from taking the rubber floor boot off - when you're looking at the top of the trans, just pop off the round rubber boot, then press down on the metal retention shell inside the shift tower (it's round, with a double-D-flatted hole through the middle, you'll recognize it) with both thumbs and turn it the direction it wants to turn. Once you've turned it about 1/8 of a turn, the retention shell should be able to pop up and the shifter will just lift out.

In fact it's easy enough that I fill my tranny with fluid that way - I'd rather pop a few boots off and pull the shifter than try and use my stupid lube pump under the truck. Just remove the fill plug, pour fluid into the shift tower till it starts coming out the fill plug and button it all back up.
 
Thanks guys great info.
xpedition xj-eh! that link does have a bunch of good tips. Thanks
kastein so it sounds like I could do the twist off trick rather than taking the four bolts off that hold the tower on? Is that right? I'll have a look at that when I get home tonight.
I have the E12 So I'm good there. Any other got yas to watch for?
 
That's correct. I hate getting to one or two of those bolts and I always tear the gasket when I take it off that way, so I started just pulling the lever itself a while ago.
 
kastein said:
That's correct. I hate getting to one or two of those bolts and I always tear the gasket when I take it off that way, so I started just pulling the lever itself a while ago.
Click to expand...

Correct way to go.

However, FTW, if you ever do need to pull the top cover of the AX15 "in place", a 13mm 1/4" drive wobble socket is a good tool to have.
 
Never heard of taking the lever off without unbolting... cool. I'll have a look at that next time. You are dropping your tranny anyway though, and like I was saying, if you lower the trans an inch and then unbolt the shifter it is easy.
 
Working flat rate, I skip the console. Of course, I am also working under a lift. I simply lower the trans down far enough to remove the bolts, and leave the tower and all hanging there while I pull the trans.
 
I now have the Tranny, T-case and both drive shafts all together and out on the floor. Once I won the fight with the center console getting the sifter out was easy. I'll be replacing the front shaft seal on the tranny while I'm in there.Thanks for all the help guys.
The failure turned out to be the stupid little wire clip the holds the throw out to the fork. The first time in my life I have had to leave a vehicle on the side of the road and its over a stupid piece of wire snapping! WTF? Anyway... rant over.

I have run into a new problem. How does one remove the pressure plate bolts? The engine wants to turn. There must be a trick to this.
 
There are tools to hold onto the ring gear, but generally I just use my biggest breaker bar and jerk the bolt loose before the crank can start spinning. Tightening them down is another issue entirely.
 
I use a breaker bar on the harmonic balancer and have someone hold it while I tighten the flywheel and/or pressure plate bolts.

HTH
 
Bronco said:
The failure turned out to be the stupid little wire clip the holds the throw out to the fork. The first time in my life I have had to leave a vehicle on the side of the road and its over a stupid piece of wire snapping! WTF? Anyway... rant over.
Click to expand...

I feel your pain! I had the same thing happen... while exiting a freeway I down shifted and suddenly had no clutch. I had to get towed home and then pull the tranny over a 5¢ spring! I've never heard of anyone else having the same issue but having experienced it, I consider it the achilles heal of the AX-15.

 
Thanks for the ideas. At least I have a few ideas on how to move forward. Here are a few pics of my broken for fun. Full size pics are here http://www.markashurst.com/Jeeps/98Clutch5-12-13/
1.jpg

All out in one piece... Dont think it will go back in that way...

2.jpg

Broken clip

3.jpg

How the fork fell past the bearing. Think the fork needs to be replaced?

4.jpg


5.jpg
 
Check how much metal is worn off where the bearing contacts the fork... a new bearing is $18 on rockauto. I would put one in because that one looks like it's been there a while and now is the time to do it.

It is a kinda stupid design, but I've never seen this happen before.
 
Almost got everything buttoned up last night with the help of a friend but ran into a snag. The dang thing would start. It will crank and I can smell fuel. I just wont catch.
What is the deal with the CPS? If it is not getting a signal does it set a code. I have no codes being stored. Is there any way to check the presence of the CPS signal? I'm wondering if it can set a code without starting.
Here are a few more pictures of it gettign ready to go back in.
6.jpg

flywheel looks very good for 200K

7.jpg

I took it all out in one piece but I didn't think it would be fun to put it back all together. The tranny went back in so easily.

8.jpg

Here is the new bearing as set to go back in. I didn't bother cleaning it all up... Rear main and valve cover are still leaking so what is the point. I'll get to that.

Thanks for the support guys and any ideas on the no start will be appreciated.
 
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