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"Strongest" Gear Pattern?

B

BADaXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Maine
I have been polishing my 30 to a real nice shine, and spent many, many hours on the truss, OTK steering, all link brackets, coilover brackets etc... Now it's time for the gears, which I am going to have someone else do since I'm planning to run near the limit of the 30 (4.56/Aussie/35's/Alloys) and I want it spot on, and I don't want this housing to get taken out by a ring gear catastrophe after all this work. Swapping in a different housing is not something I want to do. Ever.
My question is, is a "tighter" gear setup stronger? Obviously this is to a point, and all within the spec range. I would think less backlash and a contact closer to the root as well as the toe would be the strongest. Is that true? Should I tell them I want it set up on the low/ minimum side of all the tolerances? It will still be street driven, but not a DD so I know it needs to meet the tolerances to avoid overheating but I don't care about noise etc...
Thanks for the input.
 
Ring gear deflection is the number 1 cause of R&P failure (besides poor setup)...so I would highly reccomend a full case locker over the open carrier/Aussie route.

The pattern should just be "perfect", the pinion preload should be tight (if spec is 14-19 lb/in, set it up at 25), the backlash tight (.006-.010 spec means .006-.008 to me), and the carrier preload tight using a case spreader.
 
I really wanted to spring for a full case locker, but I already have all the other parts and ran out of money. I plan to take it easy and get a full case locker down the road... I think I will tell them that I want it set up tight. By "perfect" do you mean smack in the middle of the ring gear teeth?
Thanks
 
This is like asking...

I have built my Mustang for the best handling out there. Whats the Best tire I can get. I have 13"x6" wheels and want best tire I can get for the Ultimate in handling...

Your open carrier is extremely weak. Mixed with a aussie locker, you should have no problems, no matter what your gear setup is like (within reason). Your carrier is going to grenade/split before you have any gear related issues....
 
RWKHausSupply said:
Your open carrier is extremely weak. Mixed with a aussie locker, you should have no problems, no matter what your gear setup is like (within reason). Your carrier is going to grenade/split before you have any gear related issues....
Click to expand...
x2..

Detroit or Grizzly locker for $600ish.. I got Mine from JustDifferentials :thumbup:
 
At 475$ shipped to your door (what I can do you a Grizzly for), its alot less $ then a new carrier, another insert locker, gears, and labor to set it all back up....
 
Truss it, Full case Detroit, cryoed gears, RCV's and a good strong diff cover, I run the RuffStuff.

I'm running 35's and 4.88's with no issues. I love the ground clearance.

Stock D-30 carriers are grenades just waiting for the pin to pull. Note in th pic below; left, full case Detroit-middle, stock D-30 carrier 3.73+break-right, loaded stock D-30 carrier 3.55- break
0114111603.jpg
 
Any difference in strength would be negligible. The gears should simply be set up to spec. The bigger issue, as RWKhausSupply mentioned, is the strength of your chosen parts. Do yourself a favor and get the Grizzly and a super strong diff cover and you should be in real good shape.
 
I get it... No doubt I would go for a full case if I had the money. It's just not going to happen right now, so I'll go easy on it. That is a great deal for a full case locker, but I just don't have it. I won't worry about it anymore and just have the gears set to spec... The truss is very beefy, 3/16 and 1/4 box tubing, tied into a 1/2" cover with countersunk bolts. I don't think there will be much housing flex. I agree that a full case is what it should be, but the jeep has been down for 3 years, and I just finished the coilovers. It's time to wheel it!

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0417131856b.jpg
 
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Long as you don't break it, you can always put in a full case locker simply by duplicating the existing pattern, backlash, and preload specs using new carrier shims, unless I'm missing something. The pinion is already set at the right depth/preload from before, and as I understand it, the way the pinion depth and ring gear backlash specs are inter-related is what keeps gear setup from being something more people can do.
 
That's what I was actually thinking the other day... it wouldn't be too hard, since as you said the pinion depth is already set. I have set up a couple 8.8's, so it shouldn't be a problem to do the swap myself. I just didn't want to do it on this one, because a bad setup could cause big problems and I want the housing to last...
 
Another thing - gusset those inner Cs. They like to bend. A little 3/16 and some grinder/welder time and you are done...
 
I wanted to, but remembered reading something a while back about pre-heating and post heating/ slow cooling... Never really looked into after that, has it been decided they can be welded just fine without the pre-heating etc?
 
They are just cast or forged steel (I forget which) - I have welded to em with a regular fluxcore without any real problems. I think it's the center diff casting that most people worry about. From the way they bend instead of cracking, and appear to have forging die separation lines along the edge, I suspect forging, but I can't really say for sure.
 
biggest thing I see missing, inner C gussets. you will bend them and your camber will be awesome. all that work, take the extra few minutes to plate and brace them.
 
kastein said:
Another thing - gusset those inner Cs. They like to bend. A little 3/16 and some grinder/welder time and you are done...
Click to expand...
X2

BADaXJ said:
I wanted to, but remembered reading something a while back about pre-heating and post heating/ slow cooling... Never really looked into after that, has it been decided they can be welded just fine without the pre-heating etc?
Click to expand...

I added Inner C gussets and Tube sleeves.. the C gussets were easy, Clean up the C, I used a Propane torch, Heated up the C until my Upper ball joint started to melt (oops) and burned on each side.. weather or not i did it wrong, IDK.. but they are still solid today..:thumbup:
 
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