NP231 shift linkage

Is there anyone on here that makes this and sells as a kit? It looks like a no brainer fix for the ridiculous shift linkage put on by Jeep. The guy that did the write up doesn't have the time to make these to sell. Surely some smart cookie on here does. I don't know how to weld or I would try and do this myself.

http://www.bsfab.net/?p=26

Nevermind. Found what I was looking for on cherokeeforum

http://froehlichsuspension.3dcartstores.com/SIMPLE-231-Shift-Linkage-Replacement_p_24.html

I'd go with a Novak setup.

I'm planning to run the Novak setup when I do my 4wd swap

I did the BS Fab method on mine, with the variation of cutting the tcase arm and rewelding it for the correct orientation. Works great!

Thanks for finding that, for 50 bucks I think it might be worth saving my time and just ordering from that source. Seems like there have been a number of people that weren't thrilled with the Novak setup and its triple the price...

I made my own helm setup like that for cheap money. worked great. its been done so many times with great results I wouldn't even consider the Novak setup as a contender at that price. I'm sure its fine product however.

I just installed the Novak mechanical shifter last weekend. I could have fab'd a linkage, but I liked the universal adjustability of the design. For me it was worth the expense. There is a cable actuated kit as well which I've heard good things about, but I wanted a more "solid" feel and an actual shifter "cane". To seal up the floor, I plan on cutting up an old shift boot.

FWIW shifting it cold feels good. Can't wait to go try it out once my junk's back on the road.





I left the cane long (cut maybe 2") and topped it with a cheap billet knob. :farmer:

reading the froelich heim has a binding issue when going out of 4low...they are coming out with a v.2 i guess.

If anyone is interested here is my bolt on modification for the NP242. Works flawlessly. In and out of every mode without flaw. Nobody has designed one of these so far (or so i've seen.)

I know, i know i used a lot of washers. Without them though it was super loose and had a bunch of slack in it. That made it SUPER tight. Honestly i think it's perfect.

Pictures related.

interesting... you could use a piece of tube instead of those washers and it would be much cleaner.

rockclimber said:

interesting... you could use a piece of tube instead of those washers and it would be much cleaner.

Click to expand...

You know that was my exact thought when i set my ratchet down on my workbench and saw a 3" long 3/8" nipple in one of the bins. Was going to swap it out, but i didn't.

Also should of pop-rivited the 1/4" plate to the uni-strut.

I booty fabbed this up yesterday... because I have a manual trans and a slight transfer case drop (accidental when I built my crossmember, too late now) and there was too much vertical separation and not enough horizontal to make the BSFab method work.



For the fact that it cost me exactly $0.50 and some fab time, I'm happy. The bolt I used is a 7/16-14 I had sitting around with the head cut off (I like to use a long bolt with a head cut off as an alignment dowel while putting a steering box in - makes it easy to get the bolts started), the DOM I had sitting around from another project, the two NP231 shift arms I had sitting around from parting a few jeeps out and scrapping some busted NP231s, so the only cost was the flange nut and time.

For an auto I'd definitely go with the BSFab setup, it's simpler and easier.

Yeah, it uses stock linkages - but it hasn't given me crap like the one in my stock XJ does, and I already had the linkages.

The only way I can see that Froelich kit being improved is if he included a pre-welded-and-redrilled shift lever arm. Unless he designed it so you just take the bushing out instead of having to weld that up and redrill it - he may have done that, I haven't seen it in person.

Kingkong0192 said:

If anyone is interested here is my bolt on modification for the NP242. Works flawlessly. In and out of every mode without flaw. Nobody has designed one of these so far (or so i've seen.)

I know, i know i used a lot of washers. Without them though it was super loose and had a bunch of slack in it. That made it SUPER tight. Honestly i think it's perfect.

Pictures related.

Click to expand...

How much?

Johnnie Walker said:

How much?

Click to expand...

I'm not sure yet. I see BSfab on CherokeeForum charging just $50 for the linkage minus the whole modification i did to get it to work on the 242.

The unistrut is stainless steel. Obviously i wouldn't ship all those washers. Going to use the 3/8" pipe i have around my house and cut them into spacers. To hold the 1/4" plate in the side to get the slop out of it i'm going to poprivet that into place.

Before i even give you what i'm thinking is fair, i would love to know what you honestly think is fair. Not trying to make a million here just be nice to make some extra coin.

I just replaced the existing shift links with 7/16 female heim joints and 7/16 all thread. It keeps the shift pattern the same and bolts up with no modifications needed to anything. Takes 4 7/16 female heims, 4 7/16 bolts and nuts, a few washers, and some 7/16 all thread rod. Takes a few minutes to measure, cut the all thread, and bolt it up. The bell crank is still there, but it is very positive and durable.

Goatman said:

I just replaced the existing shift links with 7/16 female heim joints and 7/16 all thread. It keeps the shift pattern the same and bolts up with no modifications needed to anything. Takes 4 7/16 female heims, 4 7/16 bolts and nuts, a few washers, and some 7/16 all thread rod. Takes a few minutes to measure, cut the all thread, and bolt it up. The bell crank is still there, but it is very positive and durable.

Click to expand...

231 or 242? Any pictures?

Kingkong0192 said:

231 or 242? Any pictures?

Click to expand...

Would work for either. No pics, that was a long time ago, and that XJ now has an Atlas.

It's really simple. When you push the plastic bushing out of the holes in the shift linkage tabs, the hole is 7/16. Cut the all thread to the right length, based on the linkage rods you take out, screw the heim joints to the all thread, and bolt the hiem joints to the tabs. One section goes from the bottom of the shifter to the bell crank, and one section goes from the bell crank to the tab on the t-case. I remember one section needed a washer under the heim joint as a spacer, should be easy to figure out.

Heh, and I bought the Novak shifter on Cal's advice. Go figure, next transfer case mod is an atlas.

Mark

Kingkong0192 said:

I'm not sure yet. I see BSfab on CherokeeForum charging just $50 for the linkage minus the whole modification i did to get it to work on the 242.

The unistrut is stainless steel. Obviously i wouldn't ship all those washers. Going to use the 3/8" pipe i have around my house and cut them into spacers. To hold the 1/4" plate in the side to get the slop out of it i'm going to poprivet that into place.

Before i even give you what i'm thinking is fair, i would love to know what you honestly think is fair. Not trying to make a million here just be nice to make some extra coin.

Click to expand...

I will have a 242 under my vehicle soon.
I really do not see spending 50$ on that stuff tho, honestly. I know there is some work involved, but I just do not see it costing that much money. I suppose I could source the small heims, nuts, and some allthread or something of the sort. The adapter/ actual linkage and spacer that connects to the t-case/handle I would mostly be interested in.

Johnnie Walker said:

I will have a 242 under my vehicle soon.
I really do not see spending 50$ on that stuff tho, honestly. I know there is some work involved, but I just do not see it costing that much money. I suppose I could source the small heims, nuts, and some allthread or something of the sort. The adapter/ actual linkage and spacer that connects to the t-case/handle I would mostly be interested in.

Click to expand...

Trust me - I called him out on $50 being absurd and he gave me the "it costs money to make these things you know" spewl.

People are willing to pay $50 though and he's making a killing it seems.

I make the same exact thing as him and sell them for $45 each shipped. (mind you he sells them for $50 and then tacks on like a $13 shipping fee which is absurd. A flat rate envelope is like $5)

Here's a picture of the linkage for the 242. I think you want everything in this picture and then a piece of threaded rod, correct? What price do you think is fair for everything pictured? It comes with nylok locknuts. I just put the regular nuts on there for picture purposes.

Oh, and then a video proving that it actually works. That normally helps knowing it works. Haha.

Click this link (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ThF04dj4p0) to see it working.