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Have Ausie Locker in my 8.25. Going from 3.55 to 4.56. Can I still use my Aussie?
- Thread starter husker25
- Start date
- Location
- Seattle, WA
Yes.
Slimgoaty
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Centralia, wa
You can do whatever gears you want and it won't effect your lunchbox locker.
- Location
- Patterson, Ca
Rather than grinding teeth, put the locker in the carrier, then bolt up the ring gear.
How are you suposed to get the c clips in? where you have to grind the ring gear is a non contact point with the pinion
I would like to see how thats done.....
- Location
- Patterson, Ca
I'll admit I've never worked on an 8.25", so they way be different, but on a 30, 44, or 60, put the lunchbox locker into the bare carrier, slide the ring gear on and bolt it down? Install carrier and ring gear into housing. I had to do the spartan in my 30 this way with 4.88. Must be a c-clip thing? One more reason ill never run a c-clip axle I guess.
- Location
- Aurora, CO
Grinding gear teeth would only be necessary if he was already running 4.56 gears and was installing the Aussie locker without removing the carrier. He is already running the Aussie locker though and asking if he can still run it after swapping the gears.
Yes. He won't even have to touch the Aussie locker since the carrier break on the 8.25 is like 2.72 and numerically lower gears. Just install new gears on current carrier. done.
Yes. He won't even have to touch the Aussie locker since the carrier break on the 8.25 is like 2.72 and numerically lower gears. Just install new gears on current carrier. done.
Last edited:
No... Grinding the teeth is necessary to clear the cross pin regardless of locker or not. On an 8.25 axle you cannot assemble the carrier first, the axle shafts go in first followed by c-clips then spider gears/ locker and then the cross pin to keep the clips from coming out. It’s the same with a locker. The cross pin is the last step and with 4:56s which are thicker you do not have clearance to get the pin in.
It doesn’t take much but they will have to be ground a bit.
- Location
- Patterson, Ca
All the more reason to buy a better axle, break a shaft and tear down the entire rear end? All rear axles should be full float.
- Location
- Aurora, CO
Wow, reading all that just made me glad I immediately swapped my 8.25 for a dana 44.
foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
Depending how you clock the ring gear on the carrier, you might not even need to grind a tooth down at all or maybe just one instead of two. Its really not that big of a deal at all, you'll never even notice it afterwards.
XGarfX
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Jersey
It may seem like a pain to assemble/disassemble but its really not that bad. I have yet to see an 8.25 break a shaft or shred gear teeth, I ran mine with 4.88s and a powertrax on 33's with no issues. There was also no way to get the crosspin in without grinding a little on two teeth. I know plenty of guys run 35s on 8.25s on stock shafts with no problems at all, If your running anything 35s and under you will be fine (pending your gears are setup properly). A 44 has some advantages over an 8.25 but not enough to swap it for one unless you find a screaming deal on one. A 29 spline 8.25 is a stout axle that is finally getting some aftermarket support that xj guys needed.
jeeperjohn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Temecula, CA
Somebody needs to make a c-clip eliminator kit for the 8.25!
Why? I've yet to see a c clip break in any axle
- Location
- Patterson, Ca
The c clip doesn't break, but if you break a shaft, you have to pull the diff apart to change it. A non c-clip axle puts all of the work at the wheel. A full float axle means you don't even need to jack the rig up or pull the tire. Changing an axle shaft in my dana 60 rear can be done faster than I can jack up the rig and get the tire off. I'm cheap and run stock 30 spline shafts, so they aren't much stronger than a 44, but changing them is so easy.
