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xj hack and tap question

Draven1474

NAXJA Forum User
Location
ogden
I'm looking into getting iron rock off road's hack and tap sye kit for my 2000 jeep Cherokee, 4.0 aw4, np231, Chrysler 8.25 or 8.75 (not sure which one is in mine) I have another front drive shaft I plan on using but im not sure if its going to be to short with my 3.5'' lift kit. has anyone else done this mod, how did it turn out? any input is much appriciated
 
I'm running a H&T/FDS at 5.5". You should be fine.

JIM.
 
You should have the C8.25 (29 Spline), although it's possible you may have the Dana 35 :eek:.

I can't speak for the IRO Hack & Tap, But I do have one from Rubicon Express. It was pretty straight forward to install. All you need is basic tools and a angle grinder. (I used a 4.5 inch angle grinder with a metal cut off wheel) I wouldn't reccomend a sawzall or anything else simply because you can't get as precise. And on top of it, the output shaft is a very hard material and the grinder makes short work of it. Just make sure to get all the burs off the edge of the cut and you should be good to go. :thumbup:

As far as the driveshaft goes, I had to order a custom length one (Rubicon Express again) because im sitting a 8.5 inches. I will let someone else chime in here about using the front. I know it can be done, but I dont know what the max lift height would be. Hope this helps some. Good luck :patriot:
 
Ok, here's my .02 cents. Spend the extra $100 and get a true SYE. You're going to drop about 300 on a drive shaft, and 100 on a hack in tap. Most everyone you'll wheel with will have a regular SYE. So, if you bust a shaft, there's a better chance someone in the group will have one. The advanced Adapters SYE is $200. The Hack-n-Tap you're looking at is $100. $100 is what, a couple tanks of gas? The front shaft trick works with a Dana 44 + AA SYE, however it's a weaker shaft. The 8.25 is a little more than 2" longer snout so YMMV on if it will work or not.
 
I just installed the iro hnt in a buddies jeep yesterday, he used a stock front shaft. He has ~7.5" of lift in his jeep, and the stock driveshaft was plenty long enough. Depending on how you drive your rig, and the type of wheeling you do, the hack n tap seems pretty durable. And I've never heard of anyone having problems with them. Here is a little hint if you do get one, when you cut the output shaft, start the jeep, and put it in reverse, its so easy to just hold the grinder and let the spinning shaft do the work....
 
I have installed several H&T on lifted XJ's in the range of 3"-5.5" of lift with both Chry 8.25 and D44 axles. All of them have a good used $30-40 stock XJ front drive shaft from the junkyard installed.

No problems, not even in Moab.
 
I have installed several H&T on lifted XJ's in the range of 3"-5.5" of lift with both Chry 8.25 and D44 axles. All of them have a good used $30-40 stock XJ front drive shaft from the junkyard installed.

No problems, not even in Moab.

I've got a hack n tap to install on the wifes Jeep, it's a 242 and I'm looking to keep the full time, so no "correct SYE" for us.

will front DS fit with an 8.25 and factory upcountry suspension or is it too long?
 
Sounds good, I don't beat my rig, its my baby so I take pretty good care of it so im sure the hack and tap will be strong enough. I was planning on just replacing the u joints in the junk yard driveshaft but once I tore it apart I found the center pin ball joint thing, its in good shape no pitting or rust and was packed with grease so I don't think I need to replace it, but I have it apart now so how do I tell if the part is bad? should I replace it anyway?
 
Nothing wrong with HnT. If you have it apart already just replace it.
 
i have the RE HNT SYE. I use a front shaft with a different top flange on it. I have a 44 rear and a 231 tcase. Im at like 6.5 in of lift. I run 33s 4.56 gears and lockers front and rear. I have no issues with mine and have had it over a year now. I did have my ex father in law make a sleeve with different tips so i could drill it straight and tap and everything. Trick is while cutting it off, fire up the jeep with out the driveline in and put it in gear so the yoke spins while cutting it. It will then be perfectly straight!
 
so I got my new u joints and the center cv ball joint, but I cant seem to get out the old ball joint in the driveshaft part, so how do I remove the old cv center ball joint thing?
 
I have the IRO hack and tap at about 5-5.5" and it works fine. I had to go to a driveshaft place and have a stock front shortened by about 1.25" to make it work in the rear with an 8.8. I suspect if I do the axle flange adaptor replacement mod, that I could use a stock shaft with no modification.
 
I have installed several H&T on lifted XJ's in the range of 3"-5.5" of lift with both Chry 8.25 and D44 axles. All of them have a good used $30-40 stock XJ front drive shaft from the junkyard installed.

No problems, not even in Moab.

The only broken drive shaft I saw on a run at the 25th anniversary at moab was cliff hanger on the way back, and it was a front shaft being used in the rear. I'm on 5.5" of lift both shafts are same length. However they're cheap enough that you can carry spares.

Today's run exploded a rear shaft, and a front passenger U-joint, and a warn Ti9500 winch housing... I guess us west coast guys are hard on junk.

Mark
 
The only broken drive shaft I saw on a run at the 25th anniversary at moab was cliff hanger on the way back, and it was a front shaft being used in the rear. I'm on 5.5" of lift both shafts are same length. However they're cheap enough that you can carry spares.

Today's run exploded a rear shaft, and a front passenger U-joint, and a warn Ti9500 winch housing... I guess us west coast guys are hard on junk.

Mark
10 years ago at the Fall Fling, we watch Rick Norman break on the way out of Mickey's Hot Tub (on Hell's Revenge.) His hack-n-tap held up fine, he grenaded the pinion yoke on his 8.25.
 
Today I rebuilt my junkyard driveshaft for the rear, spent 47.00 on u joints and 50.00 on the stupid center ball cv rebuild kit, and will be ordering my hack and tap kit. thanks for everyones input
 
I'm looking into getting iron rock off road's hack and tap sye kit for my 2000 jeep Cherokee, 4.0 aw4, np231, Chrysler 8.25 or 8.75 (not sure which one is in mine) I have another front drive shaft I plan on using but im not sure if its going to be to short with my 3.5'' lift kit. has anyone else done this mod, how did it turn out? any input is much appriciated

I did mine and it was fine. Parking brake, chock wheels, and put it in drive (engine running). Grinder with cutoff wheel will do the hack real clean as the spinning shaft gives it a lathe effect rather than hacking through the output.

The front ds you're using is out of a slushbox XJ, right? I've heard manual transmission XJs have different driveshafts... might just be the rear. I dunno.
 
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