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Rear bump stop math for dummies

travisk

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Fullerton, CA
Here's a bump stop measurement of my rear end just about as compressed as I'd like it to get.

I'm thinking of adding these bump stop u-bolt plates from Dirtbound. I'll still be about 3 inches short. What's the cheapest way to get the rest of the way there? Hockey pucks bolted to the U bolt plate? The extended bumpstops that go up from the u-bolt plate are another 50 bucks.

Lifted_Cherokee_Rear_Bump_Stop_Measurement.jpg


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I'm thinking of welding a piece of 2"x2" square tubing on top of the U-bolt plate with one hockey puck bolted on top of it. Will that be enough? I don't know how much that stock bump stop will compress.
 
Hockpucks, PVC(solid pastic pipe), delrin if you have a drill and a bandsaw/portaband and a drill/press you can even make a set of those bump plates. I made my own and it cost be a total of 13 dollars.
 
I spaced the upper bump away from the chassis with some square tubing. Also, poly progressive bumps are a great low buck upgrade too and come in lengths from 2.5" to 4.5". Much softer than the stock rubber when they hit.
 
I'm thinking of welding a piece of 2"x2" square tubing on top of the U-bolt plate with one hockey puck bolted on top of it. Will that be enough? I don't know how much that stock bump stop will compress.

This is what I did.

I welded a ~6" long piece of 2x2 straight to the top of the stock u-bolt plate (Hanging off the side of the u-bolt plate about 3 inches towards the inside) angled both ends and used the 4.1" rear bumps up top. Works great.

Cost 20 bucks for the rubber.
 
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