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Beefy crossmember/t-case skid?

anthrax323

anthrax323

NAXJA Forum User
Location
San Antonio, TX
Hey all,

While installing my RE drop brackets, I came to the realization that I have absolutely destroyed my factory crossmember (yet, somehow, it's holding together and the transmission is where it needs to be). Apparently I've wheeled this thing harder than I thought.

Anyone know of any good replacements for that glorified beer can? I'm not looking for a long arm crossmember, as I'm committed to the drop brackets at this point (the only long arm setup I want is BDS, and I can't quite justify the price tag at this point).

The best option I've found thus far is the Full Traction option, but it's also pretty pricey (and would put me near what the BDS kit would've cost me to begin with):

http://full-traction.com/detail.php?MODELID=4&MAKEID=1&TYPEID=9&PRODUCTID=397&NOTES=

Can't seem to find many other options that aren't designed for long arm setups.
 
stock crossmember cut in half, with .25" steel plate, real easy to make if you know someone with a welder

steer_005.JPG
 
Not a bad idea - I'm assuming the factory piece is spot welded together? I have a craptastic little Lincoln WeldPak 110 that might be able to do the job, but am in the process of moving and won't have a usable work space for at least another 6 to 8 weeks.
 
anthrax323 said:
Not a bad idea - I'm assuming the factory piece is spot welded together? I have a craptastic little Lincoln WeldPak 110 that might be able to do the job, but am in the process of moving and won't have a usable work space for at least another 6 to 8 weeks.
Click to expand...
it got sliced right under where the top and bottom come together, and that 110 should be fine for this, we used a piece of 1.5" tube bent to a 90 to suport the tcase skid but im sure a similar piece of square tube will do the trick
 
ROBZ95Xj said:
it got sliced right under where the top and bottom come together, and that 110 should be fine for this, we used a piece of 1.5" tube bent to a 90 to suport the tcase skid but im sure a similar piece of square tube will do the trick
Click to expand...
Right on man, thanks for the tip - I'll definitely bear that in mind.

I'm honestly tempted by this guy right now:

http://www.ruggedridge.com/heavy-duty-transfer-case-crossmember-84-01-jeep-xj-cherokee.html

Much more reasonable price, and a solid foundation for adding my own transfer case skid. Did you tie yours into existing weld nuts in the frame rail?
 
yzmuddereffer said:
Too pricey?

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...IROR&Product_Code=IR-XCPSFA&Category_Code=PFX
Click to expand...
Not terribly pricey - pretty slick option, but given the built-in 1" drop "option" I'm worried about how low it hangs. Can you speak to this?

I've found the Full Traction skid for as low as $340 shipped, so I'm definitely tempted by it... Only concern I have is whether or not the skid can be removed for transfer case servicing. At this point, it doesn't really look like it.
 
Just build your own. I made one for my last DD, only took an hour or two and some 2x6x1/4 and plate I had laying around. Took a hell of a beating since I pushed the jeep too hard alot of times. Hell, the framerail bent and buckled and the crossmember was fine. I also made larger mounting plates to catch the factory spot for the 4cyl crossmembers, its already drilled, jsut gotta run a tap thru it. I used some 1.75" DOM for the hoops but you easily just make something outta some square stock or something.

n71cie.jpg

2j2coly.jpg
 
Had my local fab shop build me a new crossmember ... all made out of 1/4" and made to use a GM (350/350) trans mount ... beefy as all hell and mounts like stock.

I'm going to have a skid (forward and back) added to it and add a few extra frame mounting points at that time as well.
 
Last edited:
Awesome tips guys, thanks a ton! One question though - is the TNT skid a crossmember replacement, or does it bolt over the factory unit? Their pics lead me to believe it replaces it, but confirmation would be great.

Also, it makes me wonder how it'll jive with the RE drop bracket support braces since it bolts to 3 places on each frame rail (RE brackets just use the 2 on each side used by the factory crossmember). I'm guessing I'd just need to grab some 1/4" plate and make shims for the extra bolts?
 
anthrax323 said:
Awesome tips guys, thanks a ton! One question though - is the TNT skid a crossmember replacement, or does it bolt over the factory unit? Their pics lead me to believe it replaces it, but confirmation would be great.

Also, it makes me wonder how it'll jive with the RE drop bracket support braces since it bolts to 3 places on each frame rail (RE brackets just use the 2 on each side used by the factory crossmember). I'm guessing I'd just need to grab some 1/4" plate and make shims for the extra bolts?
Click to expand...

The TNT replaces the factory crossmember. It uses the 4 stock crossmember boltholes in the frame plus the two extra holes that are already drilled about 6" forward from there. The holes are already there, just need to tap them for the extra bolts in the TNT skid. I'm in the middle of my TNT skid/longarm install now.
 
anthrax323 said:
Also, it makes me wonder how it'll jive with the RE drop bracket support braces since it bolts to 3 places on each frame rail (RE brackets just use the 2 on each side used by the factory crossmember). I'm guessing I'd just need to grab some 1/4" plate and make shims for the extra bolts?
Click to expand...

It bolts over the entire length of the RE drop bracket support so you'll need to drill through the support bracket to get to the forwardmost 'third' nutsert on the frame rail.
 
Lurch said:
It bolts over the entire length of the RE drop bracket support so you'll need to drill through the support bracket to get to the forwardmost 'third' nutsert on the frame rail.
Click to expand...
Ahh, gotcha. Question though - in your previous post you said the holes had to be tapped. Is it a nutsert/weld nut, or an untapped hole?
 
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