• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

AW4 won't seperate from motor

scot4free

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Sacramento
OK. replacing a flexplate. Seems easy enough...hahah.

I have removed anything connected for linkage and wires.
The two top E14 bolts are out. The 4 flexplate-to-torque converter bolts are out. They were out when I bought it, hence they said it would not go anywhere even though it ran good. doh!

The bottom two bolts are out the I do have about 1/2 in of seperatoion from the block and tranny. It just won't budge any further? Any thoughts??

Thanks

p.s what Dorman part number for the tranny quick connects. The broke and I have never seen them in vehicle. 800-750 or 800-714?? I see o-rings still in the tranny, but with 800-750, do i pick them out?
 
800-714 is the ones I used.

They're actually E12 bolts, minor nitpick ;)

Did you take the 3-4 bolts off that hold the inspection cover to the bellhousing edge? IIRC there are one or two on the left side, one or two on the right side, and a few on the bottom edge plus the two biiiiiig 18mm head through-bolts.

edit: make sure you remove the two 11mm head hex bolts holding the CPS in. If you don't, you're very close to tearing the cable off the CPS or bashing it into the flexplate and will be dropping $60 on a new one.
 
there is a bolt on the pasenger side and driversside? that's hard to see about halfway down, and you have to pull the starter I believe.
 
Try lifting it up and jacking the oil pan up slightly while pulling back? Though you shouldn't have any issues with that since the torque converter is unbolted.
 
Yeah, that's usually the tough part.

Did you get the dipstick tube mounting tab pushed around the bellhousing lip already? It bolts on from the front of the bellhousing, so if it's still in front of the inspection plate (the portion that can't be removed without pulling the trans, not the part you already removed at the bottom) it may be hanging you up.
 
KASTEIN and 91evo are the co-winners!!
So, there was a very well hidden bolt holding the upper inspecton? plate on. I could not see it due to grime and grease. I mean, that area was smooth like the side of a swimming pool freshly sprayed with concrete. Scrapping away from the topside, it revealed itself!! Thats for making me look harder. It should drop in the a.m.
Autozone delivered some parts and I should be on the road in a few days!
 

My Mother always told me "If you can't say something nice, just don't say anything."

Good advice.

I won't say anything.
 
That layer of gunk has hidden many a bolt from me. Glad you got it apart! :cheers:

Going back together again yet? Make sure the torque converter is fully seated in the trans before installation, it should be completely below the face of the bellhousing if you put a straightedge across it. Bolting the flexplate to the converter you will have to pull the converter slightly forward to get things together. Make sure you put the inspection plates and covers and such back on in the right spots, I like to clean them completely of grime and tar before reinstalling, makes everything a lot easier. Use loctite on the flexplate to converter bolts and torque them to spec, you can get a torque wrench on them if you turn the engine till you are working in the space below the manifolds and block "wing" on the driver side. Make sure you have all 4 in before you torque them or some may be a bastard to line up.

Don't know if there was a bad batch of OBD1/2 flexplates (don't think there was), but it can't hurt to check before installing the trans. Just have a helper crank the engine over with a breaker bar on the front while you watch the surface of the punched ring for the CPS pickup, if it wavers in and out relative to the centerline of the crank you have a defective one and should bring it back instead of putting the whole thing back together and realizing it alternately smashes into the CPS and doesn't come close enough to trigger it.

Oh, and make sure you readjust the throttle valve cable after installing it.
 
Back
Top