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custom building axles, D60 and Ford 9 questions

S

sardo_67

NAXJA Forum User
Location
western CT
well i am looking at building a pair of axles for my XJ, guy at work has a LP D60 center section i can get for like $50 that i'd like to use as the rear.
i want to use OEM shafts in the rear but cut them down to fit to save a little money right now. is that possible?

now, what can i put on the D60 rear for a brake set up? preferably something OEM that is easy to get parts for, i'd like disc brakes.

i have a Ford 9 rear end sitting around that i am thinking about a currie HP 3rd member and then making it into a front.

the Ford 9 front, what can i use for knuckles and shafts?
i would like to not have locking hubs to keep it simpler.
 
I left a reply on nac to the question similar to this, what size tire are you ultimately looking to run?
If it were me I'd suck up a dana60-2 (basically 60 center section w/44 tubes) go 35 spline in the back and go 44 front and shoot for atleast 5.13's gears, end result is you'll be able to run a larger tire if you want , lockouts (saves on mpg's, and wear).
 
I appreciate the thinking outside the box, but people are getting crazy with these custom axle builds. The fact you posted save money and currie hp9 custom front end in the same thread makes my brain hurt. You can find an hp60 complete and buy a shave kit for it for less than that center section by itself. Custom axle means custom shafts, buy a complete axle means you already have trail spares when you buy chromoly shafts. Throw a shaved 14b in the rear, and you get the same ground clearance as 1/2 ton axles and the strength for 40"+ tires. Custom is cool, but expensive.
 
i only plan on running 35s, no larger or anything so it can still fit in my garage.

i've had the Ford 9 parts laying around for years now and i'm either going to throw it in a dumpster or use it. i'd prefer to use it.

i am more concerned about the small things on a custom build like what would i end up using for brakes?
larger problem would be the axle/knuckle problem
 
For 35" tires throw the 9" in the rear buy some chromo's for your front 30 and go wheel it. Why make things difficult for axles you dont really need?
 
jeepme said:
For 35" tires throw the 9" in the rear buy some chromo's for your front 30 and go wheel it. Why make things difficult for axles you dont really need?
Click to expand...

i found a used Currie HP ford 9 center section with a Detroit 31 spline locker..... i also have a set of brand new Currie 31 spline axles, looking like i'll shorten those and run that center in the rear.

local ford 9 housing that is "52 1/4 from backing plate inside flange to inside flange" i won't need to modify that housing will I?
 
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easiest thing to do is call Currie and give them your dimensions and they can tell you what your final WMS will be. They are very helpfull and good people to work with.
 
An 8.25 or cheaply built 8.8 will handle 35's no problem. If you are going to spend any money on axles to handle 35's you should be addressing the front. Why on earth do you need a high pinion rear axle?
 
jonzer12 said:
An 8.25 or cheaply built 8.8 will handle 35's no problem. If you are going to spend any money on axles to handle 35's you should be addressing the front. Why on earth do you need a high pinion rear axle?
Click to expand...

Hahah cause I got a good deal?

Well I know they are weaker than a LP just by design but the greater clearance is preferred by some. I brought my 9 housing to the shop today and will get some measurements off of it and am 90% sure it's going to become my new rear.
The front is still up in the air. I've always been a of removable 3rd member type axles, I am still looking into a ford 9 type front.
 
you can build a front dodge lp dana 60 for cheap for the front since the dodge lp driver drop 60s are usually on CL for around 400$-500$ , wouldnt need to upgrade shafts since the stockers are beef compared to 30 or 44 shafts. the savings in shafts would pay for the housing. thick cut gears and a lunchbox , bam, practically done. sounds like you are doing brackets anyway, so thats not an issue.
 
Why bother with the new dodge 60's? theyre junk. For less then that you can just buy a HP60 and build that. the shafts also suck, they have the disconnect setup on the PS like older D30's. I also believe theyer only like 33 spline, or maybe I'm thinking of the stub shafts?
 
blondejoncherokee said:
you can build a front dodge lp dana 60 for cheap for the front since the dodge lp driver drop 60s are usually on CL for around 400$-500$ , wouldnt need to upgrade shafts since the stockers are beef compared to 30 or 44 shafts. the savings in shafts would pay for the housing. thick cut gears and a lunchbox , bam, practically done. sounds like you are doing brackets anyway, so thats not an issue.
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they are worthless here. I had one listed for $100 and ended up selling it for $70 after a few months, and was happy to get that. Still mostly made my money back, if it hadn't sold it would have hit the scrapyard for $55.

Also, they are worthless for a reason. And if I remember how that thing looked, driver drop dodge 60s are high pinion. Passenger drop ones are low pinion for sure (but kingpin), I have an incomplete one sitting in the yard that I can't find a buyer for to save my life.

No way would I ever recommend a dodge driver drop front 60 to anyone seriously especially for 35s. They are basically big dumb 44s with bigger ujoints and unit bearings... and a vacuum disconnect.

They are either 30 or 32 spline, I forget.
 
dodge are all LP.
i think they have a higher center line than alot of lp housing though? not sure on that one....

I would recomend cutting and resleeving the cad side down and removing the CAD altogether, 35 spline locker and 35 spline inners.

I would buy a ford hp60 in a second if it was 400$ . out here in northern california they go for around 1000$ and seem to sell fast. I watch CL all the time. every once in a while youll find one for 800$ and it goes fast...

AS for 35s, I would run the 30 with ABS shafts+spares, truss, knuckle gussets,plate pass side UCA , LCA skids, RS cover, and a lunchbox and call it done. upgrade steering and use good brakes -like centric premium stuff. thats pretty much what i wheeled on for years with no breakage on 35s now on 36s...

truss is misc steel - dont cost much, knuckle gussets are cheap, and pass side UCA and LCA mounts misc steel, really doesnt cost too much,
 
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Huh, I guess I'm remembering it wrong :dunce:

edit: blondejon, you may not be familiar with the northeast, our terrain is very different from yours. Basically, instead of having rocks or mud, we have rocks and mud... and they are on a hill... and there are trees scattered around. Sometimes you gotta pin it to win it, because the rocks are covered in mud and traction is nonexistent. You can run 35s on a 30 here, but you have to be careful or build it to the hilt. Hell, I know of at least two people who have blown up fairly built front 44s on 35s.
 
blondejoncherokee said:
I would buy a ford hp60 in a second if it was 400$ . out here in northern california they go for around 1000$ and seem to sell fast. I watch CL all the time. every once in a while youll find one for 800$ and it goes fast...
Click to expand...

Yeah, you guys are all missing out on the deals here. I plan to drag a few HP60's with me to Moab to resell to pay for my fuel costs.
 
Ya out here its alot less mud . i never really find myself pinning it. I think that is why so many sierra chapter guys can run 36-40" tires on a 30 and wheel everything and only break shafts at the u joints. I feel like if i wheeled with you guys id have to go 60 or go home.

If you brought a ford hp60 (ball joint is fine with me too BTW) to MOAB (ill be there) id happily jump on one for 400$
 
Idea here..... If I am making a custom front can I used the knuckles and kingpins off the shitty D60 with something better in the middle for the housing?
 
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