want to replace front axles and hubs on my high pinion dana 30 when get the new gears put in. my question is that i was told that you dont want to put in 4340 cromolys unless its a full floated axle which would hav to have locking hubs installed. so who makes an stronger axle than stock that i can get put in thats not 4340?
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dana 30 axles upgrade
- Thread starter chopperz
- Start date
souske
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The land of competition
whoever told you that is retarded.
Go chromoly and 760x, or CTM, dont look back
Go chromoly and 760x, or CTM, dont look back
Outlander560
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New York
agreed with souske pretty dumb if ya ask me.....
go with the chromo shafts and CTM joints although they are pricey very nice upgrade for a u-joint
go with the chromo shafts and CTM joints although they are pricey very nice upgrade for a u-joint
souske
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The land of competition
If you dont want to spring for CTMs, spicer 760x joints and snap rings are pretty strong
- Location
- San Diego
That is a rear axle thing. Full vs semi float, it has to do with bearing surfaces.
All frt setups work the same as a full float rear axles (although nobody would refer to them as full float).
All frt setups work the same as a full float rear axles (although nobody would refer to them as full float).
jeeperjohn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Temecula, CA
For the ultimate strength look at RCV shafts.
sardo_67
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- western CT
i looked into those, the only thing is they are so strong that your weak link in the front becomes your R&P carrier. better to break an axle or U-join ranter than the center.
then again i'm new so that may be a tarded idea.
- Location
- San Diego
No... Your pretty much right.
jeeperjohn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Temecula, CA
You're right about it is easier to fix a broken u-joint. I have had 2 or three alloy axles break at the stub shaft destroying my brakes so I would rather replace a ring and pinion if it breaks. I have my axle trussed with a sturdy diff cover so I am confident I can avoid breaking R&P sets in the future.
- Location
- Columbus, In
RCV's, full case locker, cryo'd r&p, ruff stuff diff cover.....done!
jeeperjohn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Temecula, CA
Did you do alot of research about the cryo treatment before you did it? The reason I ask is that I have seen a bunch of conflicting information about it and I want to see what others have learned about it. Does it make any difference if it is done to a used gear set?
VAhasnoWAVES
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lake City, Mi
im pretty sure flexd was being sarcastic. i dont think he runs RCVs and cryo'ed gears with a full case locker.
- Location
- sacramento
with that kind of money you could build a 60.
StylerG
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Oklahoma City
When I had my done Bobby Long asked if I would be running it on the street. I wasn't and so he went ahead and heat treated them for me. He said to expect slightly less longevity from a heat treated set. Im in the middle of tow rigs and it has become my DD for the past few weeks. The front gearset is noticeably louder. He also instructed that they be setup tight. Somewhere around 3 thousanths backlash, which they are.
I did it to a new gearset because I couldn't find any solid information myself but haven't had any problems and will be quite surprised if I do. Mr. Long was confident it added a minimum 30% strength to the gearset which put over the edge in keeping my dirty little 30 as opposed to a hp44 center section with custom tubes. I run 33's though.
The gears are in a trussed d30 with c gussets, ruff stuff cover, 30spline shafts and full case air locker. I wanted to minimize deflection and have the strength of 30spline shafts. It's a lot of $ in a 30 but was cheaper than a 44 center section and anything more would be too much for my tire size.
RCV's, 4.56's, ARB, and a truss here. Has held up to rocks and roads, both with lots of skinny pedal.
I like being able to saw the wheel back and forth with the hammer down when trying to get up a legde or something. Funny how it makes people cringe until they see the orange boot. Worth it for the peace of mind, believe me.
jeeperjohn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Temecula, CA
Any advice about whether it makes any difference if the gears are used?
StylerG
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Oklahoma City
I couldn't find any useful info on the matter-and at the point I did mine was at the point of just purchasing a new gearset for piece of mind. The biggest question I had was with the understanding that cryo treating would arrange the molecules into a more uniform surface (obviously physics is not my field of study and someone could more elegantly explain that).
With that in mind, a broken-in gearset would have some level of uniformity on the surface from wear in the mesh of the gears. Would the cryo process enhance the negatives of re-installing a used gearset and the typical concerns that brings such as noise. Also would it enhance stress risers from the wear on the gears, or diminish them?
Those were the larger questions i couldn't find an answer to-and may not even be relevant or sensible. I'd be interested in doing a used gearset to see if they were even valid concerns. For me it just made sense to spend another $120 and have the peace of mind. The good thing about a used gear set is your only out $40 or so to try it out.
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