Frame Stiffener Nuts

Ok, Im having a guy weld on my stiffeners tomorrow and eventually i want to install long arms. My question is this, instead of dealing with the factory stud that is short for the stock cross member, what about welding on 6 grade 8 nuts to the stiffeners themselves and then drill out the factory locations on the unibody and then once the stiffeners are welded on, they will be the new crossmember mounting location and it will also save me from having to finangle a bolt into the unibody later on. Make sense?

Sorry its such a long winded question.

Plenty of people do this already when making their own crossmembers.

I did it in my build as well.

Go for it.

Awesome, i guess was just concerned with welds holing up the back half of the drivetrain you know?
Thanks

when I made my stiffeners outta 3x3 angle, I just drilled some 1/2" holes and welded some 1/2" nuts to the inside of the stiffener. I used a 1" hole saw to drill out the framerail where the nuts were so the stiffener would sit flat and tight on the rail.

ID10Tpig said:

Awesome, i guess was just concerned with welds holing up the back half of the drivetrain you know?
Thanks

Click to expand...

As long as they are good welds, it is the same thing the factory did.

ID10Tpig said:

Awesome, i guess was just concerned with welds holing up the back half of the drivetrain you know?
Thanks

Click to expand...

If they can't hold up the back half of the drivetrain, they sure as hell aren't stiffening up your jeep.

Great foresight on your part. I wish I had thought of that when I installed my HDO stiffeners a few years back.

FWIW save some $ by using plain grade 2 nuts instead. Welding a grade 8 nut essentially removes it's hardened properties anyways.

You could get the Detours Slider/Stiffeners and be done, kill two birds with one stone. I have them and 5 years later, no issues. I have heard that some on here have landed dead center on the sliders and bent them but I have done this as well and not even a ding. Mine are ground up good and still straight.

http://www.detoursusa.com/xjrokslyders.php

OK, got them installed and they make a pretty big difference. The body doesn't feel like its molding to the bumps, rather the suspension is actually doing all the work. I can open my rear gate while flexed on a 12 inch curb (pretty sad it cant in the first place) albeit, it does still fight a little, but the body doesnt release all its stress once its open AND I can close it when im done hehehe. The dashboard creaks are gone when say driving up the first part of a hill at an angle. Its pretty nice, but we ended up figuring out that the holes already exist (yes, all 6) there's the stud, which can be double nutted and pulled out, wow that sounds wrong. The bolt, obviously comes out and the front hole it just covered in undercoating and needs to be cleaned out with a tap. so now i have nice double walled cross member mounts that can use some grade 8 factory sized bolts, easy huh?:yelclap:

Okay, my reading comprehension sucks sometimes. :read:

I thought you had mentioned the welded in nuts for your sliders, somehow missed the cross-member part. Disregard my previous post

Great idea for the cross-member