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Question on clunking sound in 4wd

W

whitey818

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Lake City,Florida
Hello all, newb here and newb to xj, or jeep for that matter.
Recently got a 1993 xj with 4.0, auto, runs great but my main reason for getting it is to have a working 4wd.

It makes a loud popping sound that sounds as if in revolution to tire or driveshaft when in 4wd, it is hard enough that I can feel it vibrate inside.

Doesn't do it all the time but deffinately does it if I turn the wheel. I have pulled the front driveshaft and drove with TC in 4lo and 4hi and no sound so I am thinking the TC is not the problem, the u-joints seemed good in front driveshaft, visibly looked good and felt fine. Lifted the front tires off the ground and shook them in every direction and can't make it make the sound, the axle u-joints visibly look good on both sides. A friend mentioned that it might be possible for some teeth to be sheared from the ring gear in front differential but unlikely?
I have pulled on track bar, tie rod, control arms and nothing seems loose or sloppy. Hoping to have some time to mess with it more this weekend but hoping someone else has had a similar problem and an idea of what to look for.
 
Note from DJ
Which transfer case do you have NP231 or NP242?
Here is the shift pattern of each:
NP231 - 2/4HI/N/4LO
NP242 - 2/4FT/4PT/N/4LO
 
Worn out axle shaft u-joints or a stretched out transfer case chain would be the first things to suspect.
 
Tim_MN said:
Worn out axle shaft u-joints or a stretched out transfer case chain would be the first things to suspect.
Click to expand...

Had some time today before work and did more huntuing and found the drivers side axle u-joint seems to be my problem, not enough time to jump into pulling it apart but deffinately have a sloppy u joint. Got under her with a big screwdriver and started prying on everything till I made something move.

What size and kinda of sprocket is needed to remove the wheel cylinder, use to working on motorcycles and that is a new one on me.
 
12 point 13mm for the unit hubs and 36mm for the axle nut.

See - http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle.asp - for great tech write-ups with pictures. Stu shows and tells how to dissemble you front axle, remove the axle shafts, and change a front u-joint. Buy or rent a ball joint tool to make the u-joint repair faster and easier.
 
Well, guess the other u-joint went out. Got to drive it a few days noise free, went to show a friend the truck and put in 4wd to play on a steep ditch and got the sound back so its back to 2wd only till I replace the other side.

Atleast I hope thats what it is, can't find any play in the u-joint but is acting exactly like it did before replacing drivers side.
 
Has anyone ever had a u joint make a popping sound but no play could be found in it? I am asking because my popping sound seemed to go away when I replaced the noticabley worn one on drivers side, although didn't get more than a few days before it came back. I haven't had a chance to replace passenger side due to work but I can't find any slop in it or on drive shaft u joints.

I know sounds are hard to locate from inside but it really sounds like up front in axle area. It might be that I subconsciously don't want it to be a problem with TC so not hearing it from there, lol.
 
I don't know that it's the U-joint yet, but I've started getting a clunking / popping sound on the front drivers side whenever I shift the direction of the steering. Meaning if I am going slow and turn the wheel left, there is a clunk; if I turn it to the right it pops again. I got under it and couldn't find anything that looked worn or loose.
 
Presumably both u-joints were the same age. Replace the other one, and you should be good for another 50 - 100,000 miles (if you bought good u-joints).


centuryhouse said:
.... getting a clunking / popping sound on the front drivers side whenever I shift the direction of the steering. Meaning if I am going slow and turn the wheel left, there is a clunk; if I turn it to the right it pops again.
Click to expand...

Most commonly a loose/worn out track bar, or the axle side track bar bolt hole is ovaled out.
 
My track bar was just a hair loose when it was popping, didn't have any play at all but when i put a wrench on the bolt i was able to tighten it almost an entire turn, no more popping
 
see it ?

.
standard.jpg
 
Hoping it quits raining here soon and I'll put in the other new u joint to see if that fixxes my issue, lol. Got busy this weekend helping my folks with working on their house.

On a side note, been driving the jeep pretty solid for a week now and everything seems good.... even decent mpg. Pretty happy for a $500 vehicle, so far I have replaced brakes, sway bar bushings and the one u-joint, greased every fitting and threw a set of used 30" tires on.
 
Well, pretty sure I figured out the noise today. Got up early, I work night shift, replaced passenger side u-joint ....... still no joy, double checked DS u-joints, nice and smooth... so drained TC fluid. It was pretty nasty and was able to see the chain was pretty loose thru the drain hole. So I am pretty sure that has to be my noise, it jumping teeth when under load and sounds to be dragging on case cover.

My options would be find one in JY (cheapest/easiest) or replace chain, sprockets and seals in mine (expensive and no idea when I would have extra funds for that or the time) so going hunting next week in the U-Pull It.
 
Most of the time, a new chain is all you really need. Some new shift fork pads are always a good idea while you are in there. Unless the seals are leaking, they should be fine.
 
Tim_MN said:
Most of the time, a new chain is all you really need. Some new shift fork pads are always a good idea while you are in there. Unless the seals are leaking, they should be fine.
Click to expand...


Hmmm, thats good news, I was thinking of it like on motorcycles where sprockets need to match up with new chain or they where the new chain fast. Looks like I have some research to do on how hard it is to replace chain. Thanks Tim, was worried on finding a TC.

EDIT: Just looked on NAPA and they have a chain for the NP231c is the chevy a 1" or is it different?
 
Last edited:
This guy sells the 1.25" chain with sprockets for $99. They're pulls from probably a dodge 231, but they drop right in. The stock transfer case has a 1" chain, the 1.25" and 6 gear planetary are good upgrades to do while you have it apart.

Mark


Oh, here's the link. http://stores.ebay.com/powertrainpartsplus
 
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