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New Ball Joints seem loose out the box

Tryfan

NAXJA Forum User
Location
New York
I just bought new Dana ball joints (706944X) for front Dana 30 on a 2001XJ and the lower ball joints seem loose right out the box. What I mean by loose is that I can push the socket pin around fairly easily by hand, with very little pressure. I was expecting them to fell pretty tight being new. The top ball joints are very tight. The balljoints came in a Dana box but they are'nt stamped Dana just some numbers. Not sure whether to return them or not ?
 
I just bought new Dana ball joints (706944X) for front Dana 30 on a 2001XJ and the lower ball joints seem loose right out the box. What I mean by loose is that I can push the socket pin around fairly easily by hand, with very little pressure. I was expecting them to fell pretty tight being new. The top ball joints are very tight. The balljoints came in a Dana box but they are'nt stamped Dana just some numbers. Not sure whether to return them or not ?

I have found a wide range of 'tightness' between brands and even within brands (the difference between 'service' and 'premium' parts).
I had a Moog lower ball joint that fit loosely while a Napa Premium ball joint had a nice, tight fit.
Knuckles can get beat up and worn, not able to hold a ball joint.
I have seen ball joints tack welded to the knuckles, to hold them in place.
Using a center punch to knurl the inside of the ball joint hole is also done to tighten it as well as using a stud and bearing mount adhesive, such as
Permatex 27100
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-27100-High-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B000AAM2Z6
If the knuckle is badly worn, replacement is the best choice for dependability
 
I have found a wide range of 'tightness' between brands and even within brands (the difference between 'service' and 'premium' parts).
I had a Moog lower ball joint that fit loosely while a Napa Premium ball joint had a nice, tight fit.
Knuckles can get beat up and worn, not able to hold a ball joint.
I have seen ball joints tack welded to the knuckles, to hold them in place.
Using a center punch to knurl the inside of the ball joint hole is also done to tighten it as well as using a stud and bearing mount adhesive, such as
Permatex 27100
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-27100-High-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B000AAM2Z6
If the knuckle is badly worn, replacement is the best choice for dependability


I believe he's talking about the stud being loose within the BJ itself, not loose within the inner knuckle. Good tech though..
 
That's correct OverlandXJ I haven't fitted the ball joints yet but just out of the box the lower ball joints seem loose.
 
I believe he's talking about the stud being loose within the BJ itself, not loose within the inner knuckle. Good tech though..
Guess I should be clearer.
I have seen loose ball joint bodies, where they fit into the axle "C's.
These are the ones that knurling, tacking and using an locking adhesive may help.
I also have seen knuckles where the ball joint's stud isn't large enough in diameter, letting it sink all the way into the tappered hole and jamming, not letting the stud rotate.
I own a Vanco brake knuckle with this problem that was replaced under warranty. Later found the Moog ball joint had an undersized stud and that the premium Napa joint fit fine...who knew?
As strange as it seems, there is a wide range of ball joints that supposedly fit but the tolerances vary greatly.
 
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