New to Jeeps

Hello everyone my name is Joe and I live in Hood River OR . I'm planning on getting a Cherokee here in a few months( I have to get rid of my K5 Blazer first). I was wondering if there is anything in particular I should be looking for. I want to get a 98 and up, preferably an 01 sport or classic. Is there a difference between the two besides trim options?. Also what is the difference between select trac and command trac?. I don't really go off roading a lot but we do get snow here in the winter time. Any helpful hints are appreciated, thanks. Also sorry if this is in the wrong section.

Just wanted to say HI!! And welcome....

One of the biggest things to look out for is cracked heads in the later years. From what I understand, it's a matter of when, not if.

Search around and you will find a lot of info on that. Most replace them with an earlier year head. I forget the casting number, but you can find it by looking around...

Also, if you are planning to eventually lift and add bigger tires, a lot of the folks around here avoid rigs with Anti-lock brakes... Makes life simpler...

Try to get 97-99 since they don't have the aluminum 0331 head that may crack.

Get a list of all work that has been done.
Cooling system, suspension, tune up, etc.
If there are no records, skip it.
The owner neglected it or is too stupid to keep records.
Bad owner either way.

• 
  Body
• Check for rust. Anything beyond minimal rocker panel rust is a dealbreaker. Floor pans, etc.
• Inspect exhaust. Listen for holes in exhaust
• Check the tires for dry rot and low tread.
• Check the steel wheels for surface rust.
• Check saggy Rear Liftgate Struts
• Driver’s door check pin and bracket (door popping)
• Do all doors seal properly? Aligned?
• Check entire suspension (Trackbar, control arms, Front Lower Steering Stabilizer, FrontSway Bar Bushings and End Links)
• Inspect hubs and u-joints for play. (if you can jack it up)
  
  Engine
• Test hood release cable
• Check battery and cables for corrosion.
• Check for valve cover gasket leak.
• Check for oil filter adapter gasket leak.
• Check for cracked exhaust manifold.
• Check if coolant is green. Brown means no sale.
• Start engine with radiator cap off, and make sure no bubbles in coolant.
• Inspect serpentine belt.
• Check the oil level.
  
  Interior
• Test ALL windows, lock, switches, heater controls, etc.
  (They break. Test ALL of them. Test each passenger door lock and window switch.)
• Check Rattling 4WD shifter
• Test horn (means broken clockspring)
• Test ALL headlights, blinkers, interior bulbs.
• Check for ant dashboard engine lights. Airbag light.
• Test radio, and test each speaker. The speaker wires crack.
• Test AC. Cold?
• Test heater for heat (clogged heater core,
• Test heater in vent ALL settings! (busted vacuum line)
• 
  
  Driving
• Does tranny clunk into gear? (How big a deal is this?)
• Test reverse
• Make sure it idles smoothly.
• Test if 4WD works.
• Test brakes.
• Test alignment (let go of wheel and see if it drives straight)
• Test cruise control (means broken clockspring)
• Get to highway speed and test for wobble.
• Sharp turns. Any klunks or pops from the suspension?

Once you buy it:
Replace all fluids.

As far as working on the Jeep, you need some serious tools. If you are a just screwdriver and socket set guy, you are in for a rude awakening. Because of the age and rust, these are very difficult cars to work on. You will need to step up into the pros. MAPP torch, eye/face protection, angle grinder, dremel, breaker bars, bench vice, air compressor, welder are all mandatory if you plan to do anything more than changing an air filter.

Simple hand tools and some common sense will be sufficient for nearly all repairs, including blanket removal.

The difference between Selec-Trac and command-Trac is that Selec-Trac has a Full-Time 4x4 position for use on any surfaces, at any time. Part-Time 4x4 should only be used on slippery surfaces, and never on dry pavement.

I don't think the 0331 head was aluminum.

Tim_MN said:

Simple hand tools and some common sense will be sufficient for nearly all repairs, including blanket removal.

Click to expand...

LOL, simple hand tools are nowhere enough for an XJ. You will need the following, or you better have a good mechanic you know: MAPP torch, angle grinder, dremel, breaker bars, bench vice, air compressor, welder are all mandatory if you plan to do anything more than changing an air filter. Don't fall for the forum braggart myths. It's all some internet macho thing. But don't take my word for it, read the repair threads, and notice what sort of tools are required for these jobs.

Only tool you'll need is the ignition key.


!!!1

Ecomike said:

I don't think the 0331 head was aluminum.

Click to expand...

agreed...they did have a design flaw in the casting though which leads to cracking

bimmerjeeper said:

LOL, simple hand tools are nowhere enough for an XJ. You will need the following, or you better have a good mechanic you know: MAPP torch, angle grinder, dremel, breaker bars, bench vice, air compressor, welder are all mandatory if you plan to do anything more than changing an air filter. Don't fall for the forum braggart myths. It's all some internet macho thing. But don't take my word for it, read the repair threads, and notice what sort of tools are required for these jobs.

Click to expand...

Uh, simple hand tools worked for the rest of us........:dunno:

FlexdXJ said:

Uh, simple hand tools worked for the rest of us........:dunno:

Click to expand...

I have to agree with you, although a compressor, impact tools, and a welder does help a bunch

bimmerjeeper said:

LOL, simple hand tools are nowhere enough for an XJ. You will need the following, or you better have a good mechanic you know: MAPP torch, angle grinder, dremel, breaker bars, bench vice, air compressor, welder are all mandatory if you plan to do anything more than changing an air filter. Don't fall for the forum braggart myths. It's all some internet macho thing. But don't take my word for it, read the repair threads, and notice what sort of tools are required for these jobs.

Click to expand...

dont listen to this guy, and you'll be just fine around here.

Thanks a lot guys, I really appreciate this. I actually found a 99 that I like, hopefully its still there by the time I get my cash together. I think I'm good on the tool front. I have been fixing and maintaining an 84 Blazer for 3 years now. Is the distributorless ignition really worth it?. That's kind of the only reason I wanted an 01.

I have a 99 and an 01. The 99 has better acceleration. They both run the same. Distributor-less has slightly less maintenance.

IMO, 0331 head issues are caused by owner abuse, and neglect of cooling system routine maintenance.

Thanks Tim, that's good info. I agree about the upkeep of the cooling system, or lack thereof contributing to the head problems.

I always recommend staying away from the 00-01 for the heads not because of necessarily the heads being a definite failure, but because most XJs are quite old and have many miles put on by unfortunately stupid owners. So while we the responsible would have maintained the systems to a level of where the cracked head would never be an issue, others would lead them to their eventual demise. However if the Jeep is cheap enough and the rest of it is in good shape, then get it with the back burner preparation to eventually replace it if need be.

The other reason I tend to recommend staying away from 00-01 is that these years came with low pinion front Dana 30 axles. Now if you never plan to lift it at all then this is not an issue. If you do plan to lift it more than 3 inches then maybe an older year would be more worth it as the low pinions will have a steeper front driveshaft angle once lifted and be more susceptible to front driveline vibrations.

A few other things to note on your search is the 98-01 have a electronics difference on the AW4 automatic transmissions. While the physical transmission is nearly identical to older years and will bolt into older years or vice versa, the electronics by means of an additional speed sensor make it so they are not swappable. So if you need a new transmission for a 98-01 then they are slightly harder to come by used.

Next thing to note is 00-01 is a little more prone to "heat soak." This is a problem with the number 3 injector typically having issues with getting too hot from the engine's radiating heat and causing the fuel to boil in the injector(s). Some have theorized that this is due to the design of the newer style intake manifold, which was introduced on the 99 model year and some say this happens on that year alot as well. A heat shield was added after a TSB was issued to combat this issue and keep the heat down on the injectors.

Distributor-less ignition cuts back on maintenance slightly but adds a new sensor to the mix that could go bad. The Camshaft Position Sensor that goes where the distributor would have gone, tends to go out almost as commonly as the Crankshaft Position Sensor.

Another thing worth noting is 98-99 XJs have the VIN programmed into the vehicle computer. So if your computer goes bad you have to have a new one programmed to the vehicle. Normally this will never be an issue but still worth knowing. Also because of the security system in these Jeeps, there is a chip in the key so getting a replacement involves going to the dealership and getting it programmed.

Thats the most important differences in those years that I can think of off the top of my head. If anyone can think of anything else, they can add to the list. None of the issues I listed with the later years are guaranteed to happen to every Jeep but common enough to be aware of.

The main difference in the two 4 wheel drive systems is they have two different transfer cases and one has a full-time 4wd option that can be left on all the time while the other system has only a part-time 4wd that should only be used in slippery or loose road conditions.

Hope that helps! Welcome to the XJ world!

Ben824 said:

Another thing worth noting is 98-99 XJs have the VIN programmed into the vehicle computer. So if your computer goes bad you have to have a new one programmed to the vehicle. Normally this will never be an issue but still worth knowing. Also because of the security system in these Jeeps, there is a chip in the key so getting a replacement involves going to the dealership and getting it programmed.

Click to expand...

My 1998 cherokee classic doesn't have a chip in the key.

Nonsense, I have done 98% of my repairs with out any of those tools.

Sidewinder CC said:

Only tool you'll need is the ignition key.
!!!1

Click to expand...

Unless the switch or key lock is bad, like we ran into 8 weeks ago, LOL.

bimmerjeeper said:

Try to get 97-99 since they don't have the aluminum 0331 head that may crack.

Get a list of all work that has been done.
Cooling system, suspension, tune up, etc.
If there are no records, skip it.
The owner neglected it or is too stupid to keep records.
Bad owner either way.

• 
  Body
• Check for rust. Anything beyond minimal rocker panel rust is a dealbreaker. Floor pans, etc.
• Inspect exhaust. Listen for holes in exhaust
• Check the tires for dry rot and low tread.
• Check the steel wheels for surface rust.
• Check saggy Rear Liftgate Struts
• Driver’s door check pin and bracket (door popping)
• Do all doors seal properly? Aligned?
• Check entire suspension (Trackbar, control arms, Front Lower Steering Stabilizer, FrontSway Bar Bushings and End Links)
• Inspect hubs and u-joints for play. (if you can jack it up)
  
  Engine
• Test hood release cable
• Check battery and cables for corrosion.
• Check for valve cover gasket leak.
• Check for oil filter adapter gasket leak.
• Check for cracked exhaust manifold.
• Check if coolant is green. Brown means no sale.
• Start engine with radiator cap off, and make sure no bubbles in coolant.
• Inspect serpentine belt.
• Check the oil level.
  
  Interior
• Test ALL windows, lock, switches, heater controls, etc.
  (They break. Test ALL of them. Test each passenger door lock and window switch.)
• Check Rattling 4WD shifter
• Test horn (means broken clockspring)
• Test ALL headlights, blinkers, interior bulbs.
• Check for ant dashboard engine lights. Airbag light.
• Test radio, and test each speaker. The speaker wires crack.
• Test AC. Cold?
• Test heater for heat (clogged heater core,
• Test heater in vent ALL settings! (busted vacuum line)
• 
  
  Driving
• Does tranny clunk into gear? (How big a deal is this?)
• Test reverse
• Make sure it idles smoothly.
• Test if 4WD works.
• Test brakes.
• Test alignment (let go of wheel and see if it drives straight)
• Test cruise control (means broken clockspring)
• Get to highway speed and test for wobble.
• Sharp turns. Any klunks or pops from the suspension?

Once you buy it:
Replace all fluids.

As far as working on the Jeep, you need some serious tools. If you are a just screwdriver and socket set guy, you are in for a rude awakening. Because of the age and rust, these are very difficult cars to work on. You will need to step up into the pros. MAPP torch, eye/face protection, angle grinder, dremel, breaker bars, bench vice, air compressor, welder are all mandatory if you plan to do anything more than changing an air filter.

Click to expand...

Wow!...Just....wow!

If you plan on following this advice, just DO NOT even start looking at used XJ's.

LOL, the other option is to just assume everything needs fixing, and offer them $300 to haul their junk off!!!

:cheers: