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98 XJ Heater blowing cold

IslanderOffRoad

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Houston, Tx
98 XJ 4.0, 5spd. Cooling system recently flushed, new t-stat, new 3-core rad.

Heater blows cold to lukewarm air, lukewarm when its mid day and warm outside. Unfortunately I go to work at 4am so it's a cold ride in during the winter.

I did a lot of searching on this topic, and found that most 98's have an electronically controlled blend door, which is pretty extensively documented on diagnosis and repair procedures. Mine however is an early 98 with the older, cable actuated blend door. I've unhooked the cable and it seems like everything is moving and working, just no heat.

Am I looking at a heater core replacement, or is this still most likely a blend door issue?
 
Does the 98 have a heater valve under the hood? Try back flushing the heater core, reverse flow with VERY LIGHT pressure from a garden hose.
 
no heater valve. I have backflushed the core.
 
Pulled the temp control cable off the bottom of the blend door last night, manually shifted it to "hot" heard the door moving, left it there this am, still cold.


Gonna try the CLR trick on Wednesday when I'm off work. Gotta be a clogged core at this point.
 
I had the same and just back flushed the core with hot water and then forward flush until got a great flow and now I have great heat. I turned the pressure up (started slow until clear) then turned up to full when back flushed with the hot water and didn't bust a leak thank goodness. Stepped on the hose a few times to 'pulse' it and it seemed to dislodge some junk.
 
Is the return heater hose cold, or hot like the feed hose?

Sometimes. After the last flush it was, now it isn't. Seems to be common that it works better for a bit after a water flush
 
Anyone know the inner diameter of the heater hoses? I'd like to use some clear flex tube for the flush to get them out of the engine bay
 
Anyone know the inner diameter of the heater hoses? I'd like to use some clear flex tube for the flush to get them out of the engine bay

IIRC there are three sizes on the Renix, and it changes at the T fittings, closed renix bottle-heater valve style. I think 5/8 or 3/4 near the heater core itself.
 
If your heater core is clogged, you have bigger problems as well. Your entire block is corroding from the inside, and will require a constant flushing effort. I had to eventually acid-soak and rebuilt my motor because of it.

Flushing the core should bring your heat back, but also realize that too much pressure can potentially make it leak inside your cabin. And if it does work, it may only be temporary.
 
Flushed and backflushed once again until 100% clear water came out both directions, put in some CLR and let it sit for 10 min or so, then repeated the flush with water.

Getting 120 degrees at the vents, hoses are both hot. Real test will be Friday morning when I drive into work at 4am!
 
That made me check mine after I flushed it last week. Tonight 40*out and was blowing 125-129* IR at the center duct. Toasty.
 
Just got finished using the CLR and it worked great.
Used to have warm air now hot. Blew the core out with the air compressor attachment a few times. Then filled with CLR let it set about 30 mins then ran a bunch of water and compressed air through it in both directions until it started to look clear. That thing was super dirty at first, looked like sludge.
 
The CLR technique is worth a try. If it doesn't work, the heater core has to come out.

So what do you have to lose?? It really is a last ditch technique.

Glad to hear you have had luck with it.
 
I diluted it to 50/50 and left it in less than 15 minutes.

I bet had I done it longer my heat would be even better, but I'm in Texas, not Alaska.
 
Whichever one is cold will be your return line if you're clogged.

I don't think the direction you flush first will make a huge difference. I did it both directions till only clear water came out
 
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