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Motor Swap - 2wd to 4wd question

01yellowxj

01yellowxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
In a little home
Ok guys. I think I have done my home work and almost ready for this swap but wanted to be sure that im not over looking something.

I bought a 2000 XJ 4.0L 4x4 that needs a motor.
I have a wrecked 2001 XJ 4.0L 2x4 that is going to be the donor motor.

It seems the 2wd and 4x4 use the same torque converter, flywheel, and starter so I should be good there.
I plan to use the exhaust manifold on the 2000 and keep it on the 2000 as the 02 sensors are in different locations and figured keeping as much of the 2000 electronic parts will make for a easier swap as the 2001 has some added emission crap.

I do plan to change the rear main seal, valve cover gasket, drain and fill the torque converter and trans while the motor is out.

So basically if I use the long block of the 01 in the 00 and use all the 00 accessories is there anything im over looking?

Thanks for your time
 
You should be fine. Most stuff will sway between the 00 and 01. As you noticed the exhaust and O2 sensors may be different. Your 2000 is probably a Federal emissions package (2 O2 sensors, 1 cat) and the 2001 is a Cali emissions package (4 O2 sensors, 3 cats). However, the manifolds should be the same, with the holes for the two upstream O2 sensors on the 2000 plugged off.

I would change the manifolds with the engine out as it will be much easier to do then when in the vehicle.

I would leave the torque converter with the transmission and just unbolt it from the flex plate when you pull the engine. You will need a lot less room to get it out and you can then do it w/o taking the front clip off.
 
Agreed. Leave the torque converter in, they are a bear to reseat with the trans sideways. Fluid from the trans circulates through it anyways so doing a few drain/fill cycles on the trans after the swap will be fine. Flexplate to torque converter bolts are 15mm, make sure to use loctite and torque to spec when reinstalling. You'll want to remove the crankshaft position sensor or at least unbolt it to prevent damage while swapping the motor, use 3 feet of extensions, a ujoint, and an 11mm socket from below.

Top bellhousing bolts are an e12 external torx head, make sure you have the right socket.

You can do it without draining the ac system or disconnecting any power steering hoses - just lay the ac compressor and ps pump to the sides of the engine bay while pulling the motor. It is way easier this way.

That's about all the tips, tricks, and gotchas I can think of.
 
If you want to drain and refill the torque converter you can remove it from the trans after you pull the engine. Its much easier and safer reinstalling it that way then when attached to the engine.

x2 on removing the CPS. I must have touched one once and it wouldn't start after the engine reinstall. It threw a code for coil dwell or something along those lines.
 
thanks for the help guys. I have the donor motor out and all accessories are off the motor cleaned and ready to replace the rear main seal.
Flexplate and torque converter are still on the motor.

Ordered a new water pump and thermostat. Plan to get it running and be sure all is well before I add more parts.
 
I plan to leave the trans and tcase in the jeep and just drop the 4.0 in and line it up. Really dont want to pull the trans and tcase out if I dont have to.

The donor motor is cleaned, painted, and just a long block. Plan to attach manifolds, accessories, etc., once the motor is mounted to trans and bolted in to the motor mounts.
 
Its a lot simpler bolting the manifolds to the head while the engine is out.

The trans and tcase can stay in. Just leave the torque converter with the transmission. Radiator needs to come out, but the header panel and AC condenser can stay in.
 
Talyn said:
Its a lot simpler bolting the manifolds to the head while the engine is out.

The trans and tcase can stay in. Just leave the torque converter with the transmission. Radiator needs to come out, but the header panel and AC condenser can stay in.
Click to expand...

they can stay in, but it's way easier and you risk not damaging it if you just pull the header panel. The AC condenser can simply be flopped to the side out of the way. That way you don't have to lift a 4.0 to absurd heights to get it in and it makes getting the trans and motor lined up easier, cause you can grab the front of the motor and move it.
 
87manche said:
they can stay in, but it's way easier and you risk not damaging it if you just pull the header panel. The AC condenser can simply be flopped to the side out of the way. That way you don't have to lift a 4.0 to absurd heights to get it in and it makes getting the trans and motor lined up easier, cause you can grab the front of the motor and move it.
Click to expand...

Damage the header panel? Are you jerking it out with a truck?

Once its in there, lining it up with the trans has no bearing on the header panel at all.
 
Talyn said:
Damage the header panel? Are you jerking it out with a truck?

Once its in there, lining it up with the trans has no bearing on the header panel at all.
Click to expand...

never had an "oh shit!" moment? Why risk hitting it and screwing it up when it takes all of 15 minutes to pull it?

I find it much easier to line up when I can see the whole front half of the motor and don't have to do it from underneath or the top.

but then again I have to line up a clutch. Perhaps the AW4 is that much easier.
 
87manche said:
never had an "oh shit!" moment? Why risk hitting it and screwing it up when it takes all of 15 minutes to pull it?
Click to expand...
I have, but not one involving and engine hoist.
I find it much easier to line up when I can see the whole front half of the motor and don't have to do it from underneath or the top.
Click to expand...
you still have to get underneath to put bolts in.
but then again I have to line up a clutch. Perhaps the AW4 is that much easier.
Click to expand...
Its probably easier with the AW4 as you don't have the transmission input shaft sticking out.
 
with me doing the drop in by myself I will have just the motor (longblock) to drop in so I can line up the motor to the trans. Once that is done I will bolt the motor mounts to the motor and body, Then the exhaust manifold and intake manifold as I dont want them in my way or the chain to put pressure on them during the install.
Then take my time with harness and accessories as there is alot of room to get around the 4.0 with that junk out of the way.
 
I just replaced the engine in my jeep, its a 99' with the AW4, I found it was easier toe get everything lined up with both motor mounts on the motor.. I also have heard that putting the passenger side one on makes it a lot easier too.... Just food for thought
 
Thanks for the help and idea's guys. I have both motors out right now and prepping the jeep for its new heart.
Im not sure yet as I have not looked into it but seems the torque converter is on the motor pretty good (slightly pulled) so will look that up as i'm usually playing with rotary motors and 5 speed tranny's.

Might try today or tomorrow to get the log block sat in the jeep
 
Ok, update

Motor has been dropped in, bolted to tranny, flywheel bolted to torque converter. Installed the exhaust, plugged up all the wiring, fuel, and put everything back together. New water pump and new thermostat.

Jeep runs good but wants to idle lower than it did a week ago and dies if I let off the accelerator quick.
 
01yellowxj said:
Ok, update
Jeep runs good but wants to idle lower than it did a week ago and dies if I let off the accelerator quick.
Click to expand...


going to swap all the sensors on my manifold to the ones on the old motor and see if one of those are it.
 
swapped out the TB with all the sensors back to the one on the motor I pulled out and it has good idle and runs fine.

Still need to figure out how to get all the air out of the motor (cooling side) and figure out why the transmission dont want to shift gears (short run to the stop sign and back).
I drained the torque converter when I swapped the motors out and added fluid but guess I need to double check the fluid level.
 
transmission fluid checked and at the max level now.
Jeep drives down the road but seems to want to shift only when I let off the accelerator a little. Did not do that before the motor swap so not sure what tells the transmission when to shift
 
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