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No Headlights in my 88 XJ

vin man

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Gilbert
The headlights in my 88 do not come on. No low beams or hi beams.

Bulbs are good
I have tried 2 different headlight switches - same problem with either switch
Dashboard lights work
dimmer works
running lights work
brake lights and turn signals work

88 XJ
4.0 engine
Automatic transmission

Any advice would be appreciated.

-Vinny
 
There's a multi-way connector behind the airbox that feeds the lighting in the front end. It's rather well known for corroded connections.
 
This might help:

I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight.
ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else.
Revised 07/23/2012
 
Amplifying Chixjeff's post above, you need to open up that connection and make sure that all the pins are there. Some can corrode right off. Even if it's good, you should periodically open it up and clean/lube the pins.
 
Amplifying Chixjeff's post above, you need to open up that connection and make sure that all the pins are there. Some can corrode right off. Even if it's good, you should periodically open it up and clean/lube the pins.


Thanks. I will start there at the connection, then start tracking down the wires.

Anyone have a picture of this connection or something showing the location?

I appreciate the advice!
 
This might help:

I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight.
ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else.
Revised 07/23/2012

Great advice. Thank you.
 
IIRC a bad high-low beam switch can also kill the head lights!!!
 
The connector is a 10 pin one in front of the air cleaner and behind the driver's side headlight. You don't need a photo. Shoot, anything you see, unplug it and inspect it.
 
The connector is a 10 pin one in front of the air cleaner and behind the driver's side headlight. You don't need a photo. Shoot, anything you see, unplug it and inspect it.

I scored a complete 1987 wiring harness, complete with the C-101, everything under the hood last night (pulled it myself), and that 10 pin connector was nasty looking!!! Now I need to check all my others!!!


The rest of the harness looked great!!!! A really nice condition undamaged harness!!!! I was not able to get the interior dash harness :(

but we scored a truck load of parts! :sunshine:
 

No, I think it is this one (I did not check the year, but you want the head light dimmer switch).

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...9ciat?itemIdentifier=129650&_requestid=241563

Note this text below in the ad:

  • Dimmer switch controls the headlights high and low beams and may also control the headlight on-off switch
  • When not replaced, driver will be unable to change headlight intensity and/or turn headlights on or off
But IIRC the turn signal lever arm attaches, connects and operates a rod also, that operates this switch when pulled forward (not the up and down motion of the turn signal).
 
No, I think it is this one (I did not check the year, but you want the head light dimmer switch).

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...9ciat?itemIdentifier=129650&_requestid=241563

Note this text below in the ad:

But IIRC the turn signal lever arm attaches, connects and operates a rod also, that operates this switch when pulled forward (not the up and down motion of the turn signal).

Very helpful. Where does this piece get installed. On steering column behind steering wheel or someplace else?

Edit: I found a how to article via Google: http://www.ehow.com/how_5845672_replace-jeep-cherokee-dimmer-switch.html
The switch is in the steering column, but not behind the steering wheel.
I suspect this is the problem for the following reason: If I have the headlight switch on and the door open, the warning buzzer comes on (as it should). However, if I now activate the turn signal, the buzzer sound either sounds like it is dying or changes in some way that is obviously wrong. Since the part is only $11, I will give it a shot after I check all the electrical connections under the hood. Thanks.
 
Last edited:
Dimmer switch is on the upper left SIDE of the column, about half way to the ignition switch which is on top of the column under the dash.

Also check and clean any grounds on the frame and the wire contact faces!!!!! 87-90 Renix jeeps have lots of ground issues too. The turn signal has only 2 things in common, the grounds and the arm on the side of the column, that is all they have in common. The buzzer is not related IMHO, unless it is a weak ground!!!!
 
Renix Ground Refreshing
The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, and wasted money replacing unnecessary components.
The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are:
Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU "Shift Point Logic", Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff.
The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following:
Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint.
Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely.
While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely.
Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it’s intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end.
First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely.
Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4" socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely.
A suggestion regarding the braided cable:
I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18" long with a 3/8" lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116.
A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10" long with 3/8" terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115.
 
 
If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at
www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price.
 
Revised 11-28-2011
 
Cruiser54, where is the injector signal ground?
 
No, I think it is this one (I did not check the year, but you want the head light dimmer switch).

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...9ciat?itemIdentifier=129650&_requestid=241563

Note this text below in the ad:

But IIRC the turn signal lever arm attaches, connects and operates a rod also, that operates this switch when pulled forward (not the up and down motion of the turn signal).

4


This switch was not the problem. Replaced it and still no headlights. Still trying all the connectors under the hood and looking for bad ground wires.
banghead.gif
 
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