I am in the process of setting up ZJ disc brakes on my XJ 44 axle. I bought this from a member. I am pretty sure that he bought the Rubicon 44 retainer plates. I have read that a shim needs to be made to allow the seal to fit tight. However, the Rubi plates have a lip on them (unlike the flat XJ 44 ones) that is the same thickness as the shim would be. By using these plates do I not need to add a shim before I push new bearings on the axles??
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XJ Dana 44 retainer plates
- Thread starter jwebb85
- Start date
Ben824
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Woodstock, GA
No need for the shim if you are using the Rubi plates since the shim is built into those retainer plates. I am doing the same ZJ disc brake conversion on my XJ D44 and I bought myself some Rubi plates as well.
- Location
- Seattle, WA
From what I recall on my D44 disk brake swap you have two options:
a) Rubicon plates that you redrill the mounting holes on
b) XJ plates that you add a spacer to
Sounds like you are doing option 'a'.
a) Rubicon plates that you redrill the mounting holes on
b) XJ plates that you add a spacer to
Sounds like you are doing option 'a'.
- Location
- Wasatch Range
I used the Rubi TJ plates when I did my disc swap. I welded up and redrilled the holes to the XJ D44 pattern, as the Rubi D44 uses the same D35 retainer plate bolt pattern that ZJ and TJ disc setups share. I also drilled out the backing plates to match.
XJ Buildup III thread: http://naxja.net/forum/showthread.php?t=913774&page=2
XJ Buildup III thread: http://naxja.net/forum/showthread.php?t=913774&page=2
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
You can also buy the spacer from Teraflex if they still make it.
I forget what the P/N is though.
I forget what the P/N is though.
- Location
- Wasatch Range
Either way, the bearings will need to be removed via press to either add the spacer ring, or install re-drilled TJ Rubi retainer plates.
Vanimal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- escondido, ca
not exactly. my spacers are split and have 2 pins and 2 holes so you can snap them together. i am unsure who made them as i got them in a kit on cragslist, but you do not have to remove the bearings.
Lurch
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Beach, CA
This is the Teraflex piece, part number 8636
- Location
- Wasatch Range
Cool, good to know there are options for those who don't need to replace their bearings while doing the swap. Mine was a fresh build, so new bearings were in order anyway.
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
I cut the top of my rubi plates so that I could just slip them over the shaft.
I went looking for a photo, but don't appear to have taken one.
I went looking for a photo, but don't appear to have taken one.
Lurch
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Beach, CA
Correcting some bad information that I posted:dunce: - the correct Teraflex p/n is 86261 as referenced here: http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=967146&highlight=teraflex+spacer
I have am currently running this piece in my setup and can confirm that it is compatible.
Begster
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cape Cod/Boston, Mass
A useful tip I learned when using the teraflex spacer is to tack them to the backing plates. It prevents them from moving around while installing the shafts.
OverlandZJ
NAXJA Member # 101
- Location
- Bristol,PA
The Teraflex spacer 86261 is for the Ford setup..
For the ZJ to XJ44 the part# is 86262
Just confirmed while placing my order.
- Location
- Lakeside, CA
The big question is what is the ideal e-brake cable for this swap? I've got the YJ passenger cable which is IMHO way too long.
- Location
- Wasatch Range
Mark,
On both of my disc swaps, I ran stock XJ cables, adding a cable eye and clamp from Home Depot. http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=913774&page=2
Zero issues in 6+ years.
On both of my disc swaps, I ran stock XJ cables, adding a cable eye and clamp from Home Depot. http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=913774&page=2
Zero issues in 6+ years.
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
Those would be the cat's meow....
- Location
- Lakeside, CA
My stock cable setup would limit droop, the cable would be super tight on full droop. This was with RE 4.5" springs and their 1" shackle. Ah, that's right, yours is a 97+. Different cable setup.
Mark
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- Location
- Wasatch Range
Mark, using the method that I did, you should be able to shorten the YJ cable to fit your rig, right?
OverlandZJ
NAXJA Member # 101
- Location
- Bristol,PA
Jeff, am I correct in assuming you lined up the one bolt hole and redrilled the other three? Or did you drill the new lowers and elongate the two uppers?
- Location
- Wasatch Range
Testing my memory from 6 years ago......IIRC, one hole in the TJ backing plate 4 bolt pattern lines up with the XJ D44 mounting flange pattern, so I first welded up and drilled 3 new holes in the axle retainer plate and then transferred this pattern to the brake backing plate and drilled 3 new holes. The new holes are close to the existing ones, so one could probably use a die grinder to slot them, bit I wanted to minimize the potential for misalignment.
I suspect that the pictured brake backing plate flange is forged steel and not cast.... if so, 3 of the existing holes could be easily welded up and new holes drilled, just like the axle retainer plates, if one wanted to. I've had zero issues with my method in 6+ years of use, fwiw.
I suspect that the pictured brake backing plate flange is forged steel and not cast.... if so, 3 of the existing holes could be easily welded up and new holes drilled, just like the axle retainer plates, if one wanted to. I've had zero issues with my method in 6+ years of use, fwiw.
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