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putting to much money into my D30

C

CAJJ93XJ

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Roseville, CA
why not right? looking into steering currently. I've got a zj tie rod and a durango box and it just feels weak and shaky and I don't like it. so I'm looking into various knuckle swaps

lazy over priced way, teraflex pass knuckle
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/terafl...campaign=cse&gclid=CKTI6Nr9s7MCFSFyQgodsCgA6A

other pricey option that I havent really looked into. but something in this general direction
http://www.reidracing.biz/off-road-.../chevy-heavy-duty-flat-top-dana-44-knuckles-2

or the WJ knuckle swap. I'm figuring this is THE BEST option because you get bigger brakes out of the deal

thoughts? any other options besides the WJ swap that are worth while?
 
been happy with my wj swap for what it's worth. the brake upgrade is well worth it IMO.
 
I think I'll just sack up and do all the work it takes for the WJ swap. my brakes suck. this thread was probably unnecessary
but any reviews on the teraflex pass knuckle would be sweet. or if someone happens to have one for sale I think I might be interested. just for something quick
 
I just don't understand what you're hoping to accomplish. You said your steering is lazy. Do you have upgraded steering now? How much lift do you have? What do you intend to do with the new steering (does it need to bash rocks?)?
 
hoping to accomplish? delete the factory y-link setup with something strong that has no dead spots. 4.5" lift and yeah it's gotta bash rocks. I've got a zj tie rod on there but just noticed the driver TRE is shot so thats why it's felt so sloppy lately
 
Okay, so you've got stock steering. But you don't want any of the "known good" aftermarket setups? They DO fix the problems you're describing...
 
yeah I could do that. currie $479, serious offroad $327, JCR $314
just seems outrageous for some DOM and tie rod ends. I'd go over to ruffstuff and pick up some builder pieces before ever considering spending that much on steering. it's smarter to put all that money toward a knuckle swap and bigger brakes dont you think?
 
I've used the Tera flex knuckle on a couple builds and loved it. Hind-sight the WJ is where it's at but I'm too lazy to source all the components. I'll never run reverse Y or T after having run true crossover steering from the Tera knuckle.
 
CAJJ93XJ said:
yeah I could do that. currie $479, serious offroad $327, JCR $314
just seems outrageous for some DOM and tie rod ends. I'd go over to ruffstuff and pick up some builder pieces before ever considering spending that much on steering. it's smarter to put all that money toward a knuckle swap and bigger brakes dont you think?
Click to expand...

Nobody's arguing that the WJ swap is a bad idea. You're just making it seem that way.

I went with the RuffStuff setup because I was already too far to do the WJ setup. Couldn't run a straight trackbar without hitting the coil buckets. I dunno how people do it without offset TRE's, but I'm using heims. Had to get a bent tie rod from Iron Rock.
 
ever though of using the bolt on dana 30 high steer arm?
 
the factory steering geometry does not have a dead spot.

you should be looking at worn out components like the steering box and TREs for the dead spot.

currie is the best bolt on option.

beyond that, if you are interested in fab work for a D30, WJ is a great swap and probably as good as it gets.

if you are going to do it, do it the way the team Naxja/pettycash KOH car did it.
2012-01-22_21-23-08_289.jpg
 
CAJJ93XJ said:
however, I am looking for knuckle options not the stuff that goes inbetween. are there any other options out there besides tera, reid, or WJ? does anyone have any info about putting reid knuckles on? I like the price of the knuckle itself. but what hidden costs come with it?
http://www.reidracing.biz/off-road-.../chevy-heavy-duty-flat-top-dana-44-knuckles-2
Click to expand...

That is by far the priciest option. Each knuckle is $280 and you have to get both sides. Then you pretty much have to add alllll of the D44 parts that go on the knuckle:

spindle/bearings
lockout hubs
caliper bracket, caliper, rotor
high steer arms
steering tubing/heims(or TREs)

I would only consider those outers if I was running a Rubicon 44, but even then, it's just not worth it.


The Tera knuckle would be the easiest solution of the three. The only real benefit is the higher drag link arm, but it looks like you'd be able to run an OTK tie rod with offset TREs, then an OTK drag link, plus a over the axle bracket for your track bar.

WJ knuckles gives you the exact same benefits of the Tera knuckle, but with larger brakes. I'd say if you're sticking with the D30, start scrounging WJ parts together.
 
^^ that's what I figured. I knew there was a catch lol


rockclimber said:
beyond that, if you are interested in fab work for a D30, WJ is a great swap and probably as good as it gets.

if you are going to do it, do it the way the team Naxja/pettycash KOH car did it.
2012-01-22_21-23-08_289.jpg
Click to expand...

now we're talkin. so they did a WJ swap with the only difference being the track bar was attached to the C? can a D30 handle that? just drill it out real big and sleeve it? any issues with added pressure at the end of the axle with it like that? that thing looks nuts. wouldn't it just be easier to do an over axle bracket and a panhard?
 
you gotta do steering no matter what knuckle setup you go with, it's going to cost about the same either way for steering. however, you're going to have to do it twice if you decide to do the tera knuckle, wj swap, or reid knuckles later on down the road. IMO, do it the way you want the first time and get it over with.
 
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