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Anyone ever come across the 1310/1330 bastard u-joint?

F

Fred85

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Orange, VA
I have always wondered why the standard 1310 u-joints are too "loose" in my rear 8.25 yoke, but could never find someone else with the same issue.

Then, I came across this thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/u-joint-doesnt-fit-rear-yoke-1198611/

Apparently, for whatever reason, my rear diff takes a slightly larger u-joint, i.e. the 1330 joint. Conveniently, there are combo 1310/1330 joints out there, as this is not as rare of an issue as it may seem.

Has anyone else come across this with an XJ before?
 
Well my Jeep was apparently an Avis rental car for the early part of its life, so there is no telling...

I have inspected my yoke a number of times and cannot see any cracking/bending. I find it weird that the only cases of this that I can find (online at least) are from YJs and TJs
 
I don't know what you have but there are ujoints available with one size on the drive shaft and one on the rear end. I did that on a Monster mudder I built in the late 80's. It was a Turbo 400 2wd trans to a Divorced 205 transfer case from a Dodge. I could not find a yoke and the u joint was cheaper!
 
Haven't seen it on a jeep yet .... But it's pretty common with the big three trucks.
Ford calls their version the 1204 joint (part number) and was common to the f-series and Broncos from 80-96.
The Dakota uses a Chrysler version in the axle end of the front driveshaft on some variations.
 
I have one in the garage, can't remember off hand where I bought it from, but they are out there. I am pretty sure I have the order paper somewhere still so I will check it out and get back to you with where I got it from. If it helps, try looking into some writeups for the Ford 8.8 to Jeep mod using the factory Ford flange. I know I posted something about that a while ago and someone sent me a message with a place to get it at...

Paint
 
What axle do you have? Did you actually put a 1330 joint in the yoke and it fit perfectly? I find this kinda hard to believe and figure your yoke is just stretched out or damaged. It appears the 1330 is half an inch wider than the 1310, so it would be pretty damn obvious if you had a 1330 yoke on there.

And yes, conversion joints are everywhere. I used em on the driveshaft when I put an '03 Cobra IRS into my GT years ago. Summit, Napa and a ton of other stores carry them.
 
8.25 axle

No I haven't actually put a 1330 joint on there, but given the amount I can move the 1310 joint side to side on the yoke seems a little too much to just be stretch/damage (especially considering the bearing caps make perfect contact against the mating surfaces of the yoke).

A side question: I'm assuming replacing the yoke on an 8.25 axle isn't just a bolt-on affair?
 
So, what you're saying is that the u-joint cross has play between the caps when it's bolted down tight in the yoke? Are you sure that the small tabs that keep the caps (and the cross) centered aren't broken off?

No, replacing a yoke isn't just a simple bolt-on deal. You have to get the right amount of torque on the pinion nut to set the bearing preload. I didn't, and took 2 years to destroy an 8.25 gear set.
 
I'd have to agree with Jeff.

click the link I posted. It has the locating tabs circled in red. Then check your yoke dimensions. Everything you need to figure this out has been given to you, it's going to require that you actually go out and check the dimensions of the yoke on your axle.
 
I feel a bit stupid now (apparently my memory deceived me), but the tab-to-tab distance on my yoke is roughly 1 mm more than it's supposed to be (3 7/32"). Is this something to even worry about?
 
I've used a 1310/1330 cross joint on my 8 1/4. The shop doing the rear axle found scoring on the yoke. They couldn't find a 1310 yoke in time to meet my requirements, but did find a 1330 yoke. So, new 1330 yoke and a new cross joint, and it was back operational.

But, I do think there is more than 1 mm difference in the size of the joints, so I'd make sure you don't have a damaged yoke before spending the extra money for a cross joint.

David Bricker / SYR
 
You can get 1310/1330 joints at all the parts stores. I ran a stock ford 1330 adapter on my 8.8 with a stock jeep driveshaft. I think I still have two of those u-joints in the garage.
 
Fred85 said:
I feel a bit stupid now (apparently my memory deceived me), but the tab-to-tab distance on my yoke is roughly 1 mm more than it's supposed to be (3 7/32"). Is this something to even worry about?
Click to expand...

U-joint Series -----U-Joint Width (inches) ----- Cap Diameter (inches)
1310 -------------------------3.219---------------------------- 1.062
1330 --------------------------3.625--------------------------- 1.062



Your measurement is exactly the correct width of a 1310 u-joint.



I did find a 1330 yoke for the 8.25" axle, but I don't know anyone who'd spend that much money on it.

http://www.amazon.com/Yukon-Chrysler-spline-axles-Joint/dp/B0078UBP6I
 
Does the ujoint have side-to-side play in the yoke? I'm having this issue with the swapped in 8.25 in my XJ. There is at least 1mm of extra space between the ears on the yoke. The yoke doesn't look worn or damaged but I finally figured out that it's causing a vibration above 50 mph.
 
Last edited:
That sounds pretty much exactly like my yoke...1 mm of play side to side. I've seen a few threads by people with the same problem, but never any follow-up as to whether or not replacing the yoke fixes the noise.
 
Had the same problem. Vibration at highway speed. Used the odd joint on the diff. Always put in new straps but joint was always a little loose. Put a flat piece of steel on the four ears on the diff yoke when ujoint was removed and yoke was twisted. New yoke and vibration gone and ujoint was now tight in there as well.
 
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