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setting backlash??
- Thread starter 91XJ
- Start date
- Location
- Indiana-Missouri
doesn't really go into axle-specfic detail, but a good faq can be found at west coast differentials
Dazz
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- DFW, Texas
vintagespeed
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Upland, CA
The tricky part to setting up gears isn't backlash, that's the easy part. The hard part is pinion depth, IMHO. because you've gotta try it quite a few times (with new gears) to get it right. Once you've got the depth right, backlash is easy.
If you have an axle that isn't in your rig, take the gears out & pull all the bearings. Take a dremel or similar and hone out the inside of the old used bearings to make new setup bearings for your new gears. Hone them 'til they're a slip fit. That way you can try multiple shim combinations without having to thrash your new bearings by pressing them on & pulling them off a million times during setup.
If you have an axle that isn't in your rig, take the gears out & pull all the bearings. Take a dremel or similar and hone out the inside of the old used bearings to make new setup bearings for your new gears. Hone them 'til they're a slip fit. That way you can try multiple shim combinations without having to thrash your new bearings by pressing them on & pulling them off a million times during setup.
The following is for most Dana rears, there are other methods for different style rears but after all, this is the 
forum. This is by far a guide to set up a rear, just the way I've done them. By all means, setting up rears can be attained by an average mech with average tools but if set up wrong, will lead to a short "gearlife". If you have a shadow of a doubt, I reccomend not trying to tackle it. OK, enough of the disclaimer crap...........
Thru trial and error of setting up many rears, I have found out that the "mathematical method" for setting pinion depth(Hard part) to work best .(You gearheads will know what I mean!) That is unless you have a pinion depth gauge.
As for backlash(easy part), I usually set the test bearings on "dry" and using feeler gauges outside the races to establish .000" backlash with NO carrier bearing preload. Once you have your "shimpacks" established, then add the spec. C.B. preload to the toothside bearing(one opposite to the ringgear). This USUALLY brings your backlash to within spec.
In other words, it "pushes" your carrier away from the pinion increasing backlash.
.............or you can establish specified backlash and add half the preload to both sides.
Again, read all you can on the procedure before you attempt it. I've had Dudes call me to come and look at a pattern when they just dropped a set of gears on a carrier and said, "What do you think?" Well, if you follow proper procedures, 9 times out of 10 the pattern will be correct the FIRST time.
Ron
forum. This is by far a guide to set up a rear, just the way I've done them. By all means, setting up rears can be attained by an average mech with average tools but if set up wrong, will lead to a short "gearlife". If you have a shadow of a doubt, I reccomend not trying to tackle it. OK, enough of the disclaimer crap...........Thru trial and error of setting up many rears, I have found out that the "mathematical method" for setting pinion depth(Hard part) to work best .(You gearheads will know what I mean!) That is unless you have a pinion depth gauge.
As for backlash(easy part), I usually set the test bearings on "dry" and using feeler gauges outside the races to establish .000" backlash with NO carrier bearing preload. Once you have your "shimpacks" established, then add the spec. C.B. preload to the toothside bearing(one opposite to the ringgear). This USUALLY brings your backlash to within spec.
In other words, it "pushes" your carrier away from the pinion increasing backlash..............or you can establish specified backlash and add half the preload to both sides.
Again, read all you can on the procedure before you attempt it. I've had Dudes call me to come and look at a pattern when they just dropped a set of gears on a carrier and said, "What do you think?" Well, if you follow proper procedures, 9 times out of 10 the pattern will be correct the FIRST time.
Ron
Hey thanks alot for the info guys,,What im doing is changing a carrier useing my old ring gear, Me and a friend tried it last night and we gave up after we could not get the old bearings off the LSD carrier,, we were hgoing to do what was said here (hone them to make dummy bearings),, but we broke the 2 jaw puller and decided to just throw it back in and take it to someone with the right tools.
If I ever get a carrier bearing puller I might attempt to mess with gears, but NOT until then,,lol
Thanks again all.
Jeremy
If I ever get a carrier bearing puller I might attempt to mess with gears, but NOT until then,,lol
Thanks again all.
Jeremy
I just finished my 8.8 today. The pinion depth was PITA!!! I probably changed it about a dozwn times. Make sure you put gear oil on the pinion threads when doing the test tries. Lucklily, I did this on the bench because I have not installed the axle yet.
I am doing the D30 tomorrow. It is in the truck, so that should be fun!
Be patient is the best advise I can give.
Chip
I am doing the D30 tomorrow. It is in the truck, so that should be fun!
Be patient is the best advise I can give.
Chip
- Location
- Indiana-Missouri
holy shit 91, THAT is funny as hel
