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NP231 to 241OR upgrade questions

MrKTroop

NAXJA Forum User
It looks like I'm leaning this way. I think I can get the 4:1 the way I want for the least amount of upgrade money. I currently have a stock 231 with AA SYE and Tom Woods rear drive shaft. A couple of questions to those who know-
1. Can I keep my existing rear drive shaft or is the length different?
2. Can I keep my front drive shaft or do I need to change something for that?
3. Will the 241 just bolt right up to my tranny or do I need mods and/or adapters?

Thanks for any info
 
1. I kept my same rear Tom Woods shaft.
2. I kept my same front Tom Woods shaft.
3. It will bolt right up to the tranny, no adapters needed. I did have to trim a little off of the crossmember mount. You will need to get yokes for the 241 for whatever size your shafts are. I had to get front and rear 1310 yokes from Tom Woods. The 241 comes standard with flange mounts. Depending on your year model, the speedo plug may be the same, or you may have to re-wire to get it to work. My 1996 was plug and play.
 
It looks like I'm leaning this way. I think I can get the 4:1 the way I want for the least amount of upgrade money. I currently have a stock 231 with AA SYE and Tom Woods rear drive shaft. A couple of questions to those who know-
1. Can I keep my existing rear drive shaft or is the length different?
2. Can I keep my front drive shaft or do I need to change something for that?
3. Will the 241 just bolt right up to my tranny or do I need mods and/or adapters?

Thanks for any info

As far as I know it should bolt right in but you'll need to do some massaging on the trans tunnel to get it in since its clocked differently than a 231. No clue about the driveshafts.

google is your friend

(n)
 
There are full write-ups on this site as well as Jeep Forums and maaaany threads on mods needed for the 241 TC. A simple search on this site would helped more than this thread.

I did my due diligence and searched and searched. I learned quite a bit from it. I can find bits of information in different posts - some of which are conflicting. Most are info about somebody else's specific application. I posted this thread to consolodate information for my situation and maybe somebody has valuable input that isn't in another thread. I can understand a wasted thread for somebody asking the difference between the two transfer cases or "what size tires should I run", but I am just looking for some solid advice so I don't make a rookie mistake and buy the wrong parts because I was too afraid of being flamed for asking. After all, isn't what this forum is all about? Helping instead of taking the time to type out that I should have searched more forums instead of asking people with alot more experience?
 
As far as I know it should bolt right in but you'll need to do some massaging on the trans tunnel to get it in since its clocked differently than a 231. No clue about the driveshafts.



(n)
It bolts right in and no massaging is needed. Mine went in without issue.

As Stump said, you'll need the 1310 yokes, you will need to trim a bit of the exhaust hanger plate that bolts between the trans mount and the tranny, and the speedo could be an issue depending on what year you have.
 
It bolts right in and no massaging is needed. Mine went in without issue.

As Stump said, you'll need the 1310 yokes, you will need to trim a bit of the exhaust hanger plate that bolts between the trans mount and the tranny, and the speedo could be an issue depending on what year you have.

This is the kind of info that isn't in all of the many scattered threads around. Thanks a million for all of the valuable hints and tricks!
 
Does the 241OR have 1330 yokes?
I'm asking... I swear i read this on pirate.

I know for a fact it's a larger overall case.
As long as you have a newer 23 output spline tranny,
It'll bolt up. I believe linkage will need modified.

If you have a SYE on your 231, the overall case length shouldn't be that different
than your current case, so your rear driveshaft length will prob be ok. Make sure the output CV yokes on the case will bolt up to your 1310 CV shafts.
 
I'm not sure what yokes will be on the one I decide to actually buy. I'm prepared to replace them (or just the front if I have to). I can get them from Tom Woods. I just wanted to make sure that I didn't start this project and then realize - "Oh, I need another $1,000 to make this work".
 
i have a 241or in my xj i swapped it in when i was auto trans now i still have it and i am 5-speed...if you get a 241or out of a tj/lj rubicon it bolts up to the tranny with small mods to auto trans mount and adjustment of your shift linkage if no prior sye existed you can use an auto front shaft and you need 2-1310 yokes from tom woods or JB Conversions....

now for the 5-speed the trans mount needs heavy modification as does the shift linkage and a rear custom d-shaft is needed but as far as i know 96-up speedo plugs right in if you want a 4wd indicator light JB Conversions sells the switch and pigtail to splice in


if you do a JK 241or floor massaging is needed cause its bigger and clocked a lot higher and needs yokes and i think it needs a new output cause the speedo is different
 
Not everyone is posting specs on their rigs, obviously there are differences between the years.
Mines a 98 with AX15. No clocking or floor massaging required. No trans mount or exhaust mods needed. Stock linkage worked fine. Speedo was plug and play. Only thing that I didn't do - hook up the 4wd dash light.
I moved the original front yoke(1330) to the back of the case and got a Six States driveshaft. I installed a Tom Woods front 1310 yoke and reused the factory front driveshaft.
If you have a flat belly you'll need to clearance the floor, my crossmember is only a inch higher than stock..
Been in for over 6 years without an issue, great mod..
 
Thanks for all the advice. This definitely sounds like a solid mod with little to no negatives about it. I'm feeling comfortable with the upgrade and now I know I'm not looking at any "surprise" costs based on what everybody is saying. Thanks again!
 
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