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Drilling Torqconverter

Wouldn't bother... but if you do and happen to smoke it, I think I have a couple decent ones around you can have for free. Pick em up and they are yours.

Be real careful filling the hole back in, ATF's pretty darn flammable!
 
"Get your Camera!"
 
You could do as I, and many others have done and just do three drain/refills over a period of a few months. My reasoning was to gradually dissolve any baked on crud in the passageways and check balls.
 
I may be wrong, but I seem to remember someplace like Jeg's or Summit sold kits to drill out, tap, & add small drain plug.
 
How are you going to re-spin balance it afterwards?
 
Here is how I change the fluid.
Drop the pan, change the filter replace pan and fill.
Disconnect the cooler return line and attach a hose and place other end of hose in a calibrated bucket. Run in neutral until 2-quarts come out, turn off engine, add 2-quarts and repeat until fluid runs clean- takes 12-14 quarts.
This will flush the converter, completely changes the fluid and there is no need to drill any holes.
 
Pelican said:
OP wants all existing fluid out of the TC.
Click to expand...
I would assume he wants all of the original fluid out of the entire transmission. Shorts of disassembling the transmission, the above method is only way I know of flushing it. Expensive ...yes but that's the way it is.
Not too sure why running Dex III is a problem, most stock AW4s go a couple hundred thousand miles on the stuff, as long as they don't overheat and the fluid is change regularly.
 
Liquid Wrench said:
As to drain it, I was figuring on an 1/8" hole to drain my converter then filling in the hole with 309 via tig. Any reasons i should not do this? Btw its a 97 with the AW.
Click to expand...

For a converter without a plug, the usual drain is to drill two holes 180* apart (as close to dead opposite locations as possible,) and then use blind "Pop" rivets to close the holes, coated with RTV.

You use two rivets so they balance each other, which saves you having tohave the TC rebalanced (hopefully.)

Torque converters with factory drain plugs are slightly less common than slushboxen with factory drain plugs...
 
Thanks all, I believe that we are over engineering the balance thing, I will post pics when done. As for the fluid i have to give LE a shameless plug check the stuff out. I started using it when I worked fir BFI, we cut our trans failures from overheating to almost nill. I am aware that these transmissions are durable, but mine gets flogged on a daily basis, I pull a welder that weighs about 3500# and usualy have the back loaded with about 1500# of tools. Ill post the airbag install too lol.
 
I would be really worried about using a pop rivet as sometimes the piece that "pops" and stays in the rivet will come loose (I'm sheetmetal guy and use them on a daily basis).....wouldn't want that bouncing around inside my torque converter but, just my opinion.

I would be more inclined to drill and tap and use a pipe plug......like Fords use to have them ;)

Hans
 
Oatmeal said:
I would be really worried about using a pop rivet as sometimes the piece that "pops" and stays in the rivet will come loose (I'm sheetmetal guy and use them on a daily basis).....wouldn't want that bouncing around inside my torque converter but, just my opinion.

I would be more inclined to drill and tap and use a pipe plug......like Fords use to have them ;)

Hans
Click to expand...

Actually, I'd rather do a series of drain and fills and be done with it........
 
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