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Double Sheer Trackbar..

J

Jk2xj1

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Pearl, MS
Maybe I am beating a dead horse here, and I've searched but I guess didn't find the information I was looking for. My XJ is 3 linked (RockKrawler) up front and currently is using a factory mounted Rusty's adjustable trackbar. After being in the rocks a couple times it has developed some slop in it, looks to be a somewhat wallowed hole for the frame-side mount. Anyways, I am moving up to a 35" tire very soon as well as upgrading/bracing the steering box at the same time, and would love to replace/modify that mount and add a beefier track-bar. My question is ....what are you guys with a similar set up running? I still have UTK steering, and would prefer to not use a drop pitman arm if I don't have too. I keep reading mixed reviews on this brand and that brand..etc. I do still drive this Jeep on the street a bit, but probably not for too much longer.

Thanks for the advice
 
Not great pics. It looks like crap but it has help up for year of wheelin

1226111411.jpg


1226111410.jpg


I also made a cross brace to the pass side frame rail. No pics of that.

I had to deal with clearance issues since I run a low COG set-up(35's on 5.5" lift) but so far, no issues.
 
Thanks man that was exactly the response I needed. I am running a LCOG set up too (about 5" and 33s, soon to be 35s), so I was wondering about the clearance too.
 
if you can weld, you are better off getting a bracket like the clayton one, cutting the end off that JKS bar, rotating it 90* and welding it back so you can run rouble shear with the bolt horizontal to the ground.
 
rockclimber said:
if you can weld, you are better off getting a bracket like the clayton one, cutting the end off that JKS bar, rotating it 90* and welding it back so you can run rouble shear with the bolt horizontal to the ground.
Click to expand...

That would be the preferred way to go but I'm not crazy about modding the one component that keeps me straight on the road and takes the load in corners. If you go that route I would rotate it, lug the center and drill some holes for plug welds for extra insurance. In my case the vertical mount works fine with no interference issues on compression or droop.
 
xjtrailrider said:
That would be the preferred way to go but I'm not crazy about modding the one component that keeps me straight on the road and takes the load in corners. If you go that route I would rotate it, lug the center and drill some holes for plug welds for extra insurance. In my case the vertical mount works fine with no interference issues on compression or droop.
Click to expand...

why would you need plug welds? if the weld that is on there now is strong enough, no reason, cutting it out and welding it again in the same fashion would change a thing.
 
xjtrailrider said:
Not great pics. It looks like crap but it has help up for year of wheelin

I also made a cross brace to the pass side frame rail. No pics of that.

I had to deal with clearance issues since I run a low COG set-up(35's on 5.5" lift) but so far, no issues.
Click to expand...

I thought the factory setup was single sheer? Looks like a factory style setup with a different bar and more bracing on the mount?
I assumed double sheer was like this, to prevent binding when articulating, am I wrong?
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...en=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-STBCK
 
Empty_Pockets said:
I thought the factory setup was single sheer? Looks like a factory style setup with a different bar and more bracing on the mount?
I assumed double sheer was like this, to prevent binding when articulating, am I wrong?
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...en=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-STBCK
Click to expand...

double shear means that the bolt goes through the bracket on both side of the joint.

what he has is double shear in the vertical. you are looking at double shear in the horizontal.

being vertical or horizontal is not what worries me about that bracket, as long as you aren't over traveling the joint.... its the fact that the factory bracket is already a POS.... I cracked the shit out of mine even after plating it.
 
just buy a rubicon express double shear track bar bracket, they're cheap and work great.

5-5.5" of lift with 35's is not LCOG lol
 
OP... here is what I run. its pretty damn strong

Clayton no drop bracket, Ruffstuff 7/8" rod end. the bracket is 2.63" wide for a 2.5" JJ... I am using washers to fill it and move the rod end forward for dif cover clearance.
framesidefull-stuff_zps475e52ae.jpg


frame-passengerrideheight_zpsa76b2327.jpg


I run stock steering geometry (Currie) and 4" of lift.
 
xjtrailrider said:
I made a double shear for my JKS track bar and used the stock mount. I also braced the mount to the opposite frame rail.
Click to expand...

From my first post

Empty_Pockets said:
I thought the factory setup was single sheer? Looks like a factory style setup with a different bar and more bracing on the mount?
I assumed double sheer was like this, to prevent binding when articulating, am I wrong?
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...en=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-STBCK
Click to expand...

Either way is double shear if the bolt passes through two parts of the bracket.

I posted to help the OP out with a question, not to get my work/set-up criticized. I don't need to defend my work, it does that its self on the trail. There are many ways to skin a cat, i gave the OP my version. You can give him your suggestions as well.

As for articulation, the johnny joints flex plenty and are not binding on the bracket at any point

I did not want to mod my trac-bar. so I went with what I have. the cross brace is mounted to the bracket at the lower end near the head of the bolt and crosses over to the pass side frame rail and 3 grade 8 bolts
 
xjtrailrider said:
From my first post

I posted to help the OP out with a question, not to get my work/set-up criticized. I don't need to defend my work, it does that its self on the trail. There are many ways to skin a cat, i gave the OP my version. You can give him your suggestions as well.
Click to expand...

I was asking because I thought that double sheer referred to the horizontal style, I was not criticizing. Its just that from what I see the vertical style is that you will get to a certain point and it will hinder articulation.
 
Last edited:
xjtrailrider said:
From my first post



Either way is double shear if the bolt passes through two parts of the bracket.

I posted to help the OP out with a question, not to get my work/set-up criticized. I don't need to defend my work, it does that its self on the trail. There are many ways to skin a cat, i gave the OP my version. You can give him your suggestions as well.

As for articulation, the johnny joints flex plenty and are not binding on the bracket at any point

I did not want to mod my trac-bar. so I went with what I have. the cross brace is mounted to the bracket at the lower end near the head of the bolt and crosses over to the pass side frame rail and 3 grade 8 bolts
Click to expand...

slow your roll buddy... I'm not bashing you. just pointing out some things for people reading along.

my experience has been that the OEM bracket is a POS even when plated.

and I already posted as long as you aren't over-traveling the joint, mounting it vertically is fine.
 
rockclimber said:
if you can weld, you are better off getting a bracket like the clayton one, cutting the end off that JKS bar, rotating it 90* and welding it back so you can run rouble shear with the bolt horizontal to the ground.
Click to expand...



This is what I had seen from the RK trackbar kit(bolts horizontal), and yeah the welding doesn't bother me. Keep the ideas coming...
 
I have a clayton HD TB system and ran an RE TB system before, it's a night/ day difference between the 2, claytons uses larger bolts and has a larger joint, however I wouldn't hesitate to buy a rockkrawler as well. As for as I'm concerned the rest are junk!
 
clean4drxj said:
I have a clayton HD TB system and ran an RE TB system before, it's a night/ day difference between the 2, claytons uses larger bolts and has a larger joint, however I wouldn't hesitate to buy a rockkrawler as well. As for as I'm concerned the rest are junk!
Click to expand...

I can agree to this.

You can make any trackbar strong and put a warranty on it.

But of course they can put a warranty on their trackbars and never have one bend or break because they are attatched by the dinky stock sized bolts that will fail long before.

Rock krawler, clayton, or rubicon express hd WITH the 1/2" bolt upgrade.
 
ktm racer 419 said:
Rock krawler, clayton, or rubicon express hd WITH the 1/2" bolt upgrade.
Click to expand...
i used my single sheer RE 1600 track bar with the RE double sheer bracket. put in a new ruff stuff heim (direct replacement), drilled the RE mount out (to match 5/8" misalignment spacers), and have been loving it.

regardless of which mount you run, MOST are 2 5/8" wide to accept a standard JJ/cartridge style joint. i went with the RE bracket as it is only 2" wide, the same size as a misaligment spacer from ruff struff. if you plan to run heims, you will likely have to "space" the heim with washers like someone else posted on here. another option is the wider, 2 5/8" spacer that ruff stuff makes for their heims.
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
i used my single sheer RE 1600 track bar with the RE double sheer bracket. put in a new ruff stuff heim (direct replacement), drilled the RE mount out (to match 5/8" misalignment spacers), and have been loving it.
Click to expand...
i did exactly that until i changed to my d44. still using the bracket, but i had to make a new track bar to work with the new axle.
worked fine, no issues.
 
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