Boy my XJ had a rough week.....

My 89 XJ's clutch master cylinder crapped out last week, it let me know by dumping fluid all over the fuse box and of course loosing clutch. I added fluid and it got me to work and back but before I could replace it the TPS stuck idle at 2500 RPMs! Tapping on the TPS brought the idle down but now the new clutch master lost pressure, I think at the fitting to the slave on the master. The new master is aluminum and the old was steel or iron so I didn't want to crank it down too tight. Well this morning it wouldn't start, it would crank fine and everything electrical was working so I first thought "OH NO the brake fluid on the fuse block has messed something up".
I checked the readings on the TPS and got a nice 4.98 volts for input, grounds all read fine but output read .45 volts and that should be at .84/.85 volts so I installed and adjusted my new NAPA TPS. Still no start, so I checked the 6 month old CPS and it read fine at 220 ohms. I plugged it back in and wham it started! So now I'll pull the little cup off the clutch master and crank down the line fitting then cut the connectors out of the CPS and solder them together, then re-check the adjustment of the new TPS after my battery is recharged. Thanks to all you forum members as had I just had my FSM to go by I doubt it would be running by now! b5

I would not solder the CPS, just clean and tighten, or replace the E-contacts-connectors. You need to be able disconnect it to test it.

That clutch fluid may be causing partial shorting issues in the fuse block on sensor signals to the ECU!!!! It needs to be washed out!!! I would use DI water first, then rinse with 91 % IPA alcohol, then if you can find 100% Perchlorethylene brake cleaner one more rinse (Do not use the cheap brake cleaners with hydrocarbons, they may eat plastics and DO NOT DRY), or use electronics cleaner for the last rinse.

Thanks Ecomike,
That is the plan for this weekend, I put my shop vac to it to suck out all but a thin film.
I have marine grade heat shrink crimp connectors that also seal that I used instead of soldering for the CPS. If it acts up I'll just remove the insulation like I did on the TPS. I ordered a new clutch line from Rock "just in case" the old line won't seal to the master.

I was careful to get only the cast iron, clutch master cylinder from Rock Auto. The China Aluminum MCs (clutch and brake MCs) are junk, they are not anodized and they corrode very quickly and fail. Even to good Anodized ones I suspect fail much sooner than cast iron!!!

I had to replace the MC, SC and the line on mine one week after another. Then it was hell bleeding it!!! There is a trick to getting the air out of the slave cylinder. Two man job, I had to manually work, return, the Slave back up each time to get trapped air out of it, otherwise the fluid just passed up the air pocket trapped in the back.

Good and bad news, the fitting at the new clutch master weeps slowly even after 2nd tightening, a new line will be here today. I do think it was over torqued in the past as the hex is deformed. My old replacement was iron and lasted 11 years, the new is aluminum and under a lifetime warranty from the old one so we'll see? Good news is the TPS replacement netted another power gain, the already fine running six pulls even stronger!

I installed the new clutch hose, Dorman DOR H38938 (made in China.) and with a little extra bending it's a good fit to my AX-15 tranny slave cylinder line. I've got the same air bubble issue and my son and I are getting ready to pump it up and force bleed it. I went ahead and ordered a new slave cylinder from Rockauto just in case per Mikes post. Lucky for me a very good friend has a transmission shop "just in case".