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UTK limitations?

2001XJ

2001XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Canton, MI
I have searched and have looked at both UTK and OTK steering systems and can't seem to find any posts on it. I was wondering if there is a certain "concensus" of what is the maximum lift that should be run with an UTK system. I have seen vendor recommendations as high as 6.5" but that seems a bit high of a lift to be runnin for UTK. Any input?

TIA
 
Im running serious 1ton steering UTK on 8"lift and 35's. works flawless. With OTK you have to relocate your sway bar mounts on the D30 (what axle are you running?) A drop pitman arm will do wonders for your steering angle. Im running a 2" drop pitman. The main thing to worry about is the angle on the pitman tie rod when flexed out. Also depends on what kind of clearance your after. OTK will obviously be higher clearance but UTK is still no lower than the front axle.
 
ok, thats good to know. I am leaning toward the UTK simply to avoid the sway bar mount and track bar reloaction stuff. Plus I am not hardcore like rockcrawling to really warrant OTK in that regard. I use it as my DD and want tighter steering on the highway and I only go on logging trails, sand and two-tracks. Yes, I am running D30 with just over 6" of lift
 
whitexj98 said:
You have read about the "dead spot" with this type of steering right?

A drop pittman arm will help with the angle of the drag link ends but you will need to also relocate your track bar mounting bracket to keep the drag link and track bar parallel.
Click to expand...

Yes, I have read about the deadspot. Hopefully, if I go with JCR or SOF the poly spacers they use to cure that problem will actually work.

Why would I have to relocate the track bar mounting bracket? My track bar and draglink are parallel now using the stock setup with my 2" dropped pitman arm. The UTK simply replaces the same geometry (more or less) with stronger links and TREs doesn't it?
 
2001XJ said:
Yes, I have read about the deadspot. Hopefully, if I go with JCR or SOF the poly spacers they use to cure that problem will actually work.

Why would I have to relocate the track bar mounting bracket? My track bar and draglink are parallel now using the stock setup with my 2" dropped pitman arm. The UTK simply replaces the same geometry (more or less) with stronger links and TREs doesn't it?
Click to expand...

I was assuming you didnt have a drop now and would be adding a drop.

So you have a 2 inch drop now and they are parrallel? I don't think I have seen any that retain the correct geometry with a drop pittman alone.

Your looking at mounting point to mounting point correct?

You should post a pic of the front, I like pics....
 
I have NO dead spot with the serious offroad steering. No tie rod roll at all. And I never have to adjust toe in if I change my lift height. I have ran several other set ups before I settled on serious steering. The dead spot results to inproper installation imo. Use a reamer and dont cut the tie rod spacers to thin. I have wheeled this set up locked front and rear on 35's for two years with no issue at all. My .02 form experience.

2001XJ said:
Yes, I have read about the deadspot. Hopefully, if I go with JCR or SOF the poly spacers they use to cure that problem will actually work.

Why would I have to relocate the track bar mounting bracket? My track bar and draglink are parallel now using the stock setup with my 2" dropped pitman arm. The UTK simply replaces the same geometry (more or less) with stronger links and TREs doesn't it?
Click to expand...
 
At 6"+ of lift, why are you still considering a UTK set up? :dunno: Do you have the "know how" and tools (welder) to do a OAT mount?

Never mind i re-read post #6
 
CaliXJ said:
At 6"+ of lift, why are you still considering a UTK set up? :dunno: Do you have the "know how" and tools (welder) to do a OAT mount?

Never mind i re-read post #6
Click to expand...

I agree, ideally I would go with OTK. However, I don't wheel hardcore mostly logging trails, sand and two track trails with highway driving. I want something that is stronger than stock setup at the same time will be a cheaper option that UTK which requires moving/remounting sway bar connects, track bar bracket, etc. Also, I do not have a garage at the moment so bolt on kits more or less are my friend right now
 
whitexj98 said:
I was assuming you didnt have a drop now and would be adding a drop.

So you have a 2 inch drop now and they are parrallel? I don't think I have seen any that retain the correct geometry with a drop pittman alone.

Your looking at mounting point to mounting point correct?

You should post a pic of the front, I like pics....
Click to expand...

pretty close to parallel

P1010005a.jpg
 
Currie. Huge TREs that use the stock taper, stock geometry with no chance for a dead spot and beefy links. I beat the crap out of a Currie system for 3 years. Bent the tie rod a tad, but multiple vendors say you can bend it back in a press because it's solid 1.25" steel. Or you just adjust for the toe and keep it bent.

Don't know why anyone would go with any other setup for a 'non-hardcore' jeep.
 
I springin' for the best....none of this "beefier but stock configuration bull":

DSCF0021.jpg


DSCF0016-2.jpg
 
whitexj98 said:
X2. On our SAE BAJA car in college we made custom steering brackets for Polaris knuckles with no regard for ackerman geometry and that thing couldn’t turn for crap!
Click to expand...

explain to me how this will impact ackerman significantly? The only real difference is the driver side bracket as far as mounting points of the tie rod. I would assume if the ackerman was dramatically affected you could just forgoe to the driver side bracket and mount directly to the knuckle (also lengthening the tie rod slightly, restoring the original turning radius.
 
Last edited:
2001XJ said:
explain to me how this will impact ackerman significantly? The only real difference is the driver side bracket as far as mounting points of the tie rod. I would assume if the ackerman was dramatically affected you could just forgoe to the driver side bracket and mount directly to the knuckle (also lengthening the tie rod slightly, restoring the original turning radius.
Click to expand...
draw a line from the center of the rear axle through the axis of the ball joints on both the driver and passenger sides. that line will likely go right through the stock tie rod end location. your tie rod ends need to follow that line within reason. yours is extended and inboard of that line, not even close.
i'm no expert on this so you'll want to do your research, but that looks wrong to me.
 
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