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Weird issue with idle, fine in park/neutral issues in drive

dsapper

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Las Vegas
So, the jeep is running great and when I start it the idle is perfect, same whenever I put it in neutral.

The catch is when I'm actually driving it and holding the jeep back with the brakes in drive, like when I'm stopped at a red light, you can feel vibrations and shaking. Its nothing crazy but there has to be something wrong at this point as I can tell its getting worse.

I looked at the motor and trans mounts and replaced all of them with factory style rubber mounts, any ideas?
 
Your torque converter might not be releasing. Do your brake lights work?
 
How low are the rpms when idling in gear? The idle on my Jeep is to low and it vibrates the Jeep like crazy.

I would doubt it's a torque converter issue as I'm pretty sure there are several triggers that tell it to unlock once you're below a certain speed. iirc people that have installed a manual lock switch say when they fall below a certain speed the torque converter unlocks even I'd their switch is in the locked position.
 
What year Jeep and what engine?

If you haven't ever done this, now's the time to perform this bit of maintenance.

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The Idle Air Control (IAC) is mounted on the back of the throttle body. (front for 87-90) The valve controls the idle speed of the engine by controlling the amount of air flowing through the air control passage. It consists of a stepper motor that moves a pintle shaped plunger in and out of the air control passage. When the valve plunger is moved in, the air control passage flows more air which raises the idle speed. When the valve plunger is moved out, the air control passage flows less air which lowers the idle speed. Over time and miles, the IAC can get carboned up which can have an adverse affect on idle quality. Cleaning the IAC may restore proper function and is an easy procedure to perform and good preventive maintenance so it is never a bad idea.

CLEANING THE JEEP 4.0 IDLE AIR CONTROL

Remove the air filter cover, associated hoses and the rubber boot that goes from the air filter cover to the throttle body. Remove the IAC with a torx driver (2 bolts; one can be kind of hard to get to)

"Gently" wiggle out the IAC from the throttle body. Gasket on the IAC can be re-used if it is not damaged

Clean the IAC with a spray can of throttle body cleaner; inexpensive and available at any place that sells auto parts. Throttle body cleaner is recommended rather than carburetor cleaner as it is less harsh, safe for throttle body coatings and is best for this task. Use cleaner, a rag and a toothbrush and or Q-Tips. Be gentle; don’t twist or pull on the pintle that protrudes from the IAC as it is fragile and you could damage it.

Thoroughly spray clean and flush where the IAC seats in the throttle body with the same spray cleaner

It is also a good idea to clean the entire throttle body itself, the butterfly valve inside of the throttle body and all associated linkage as long as you have things disassembled


 
I just moved my intake air temperature sensor and it affected my idle quality (granted mine is supercharged). Maybe your IAT sensor has gone bad on you?
 
Yeah, probably. I know my bad idle wasn't really perceptable in N or P, but was really exacerbated by putting it in drive.

Is the transmission shifting fine?
 
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