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Oil consumption on replacement engine

OverlandZJ

NAXJA Member # 101
Location
Bristol,PA
Did an engine swap on a 96 XJ awhile back, bought an engine from a member here during a partout. He did tell me it uses a bit of oil..

I got the Jeep back for other work recently, and he mentioned he's had to add a quart of oil since, the engine has somewhere in the area of 12-1300 miles since swap. It's also reading a tad over half quart low now.

During the swap i found the oil pressure gauge was inop, sender and cluster swap did not remedy. I just installed an Autometer gauge, pressure is ~55 psi cold and 25 at operating temps.

While engine was still at operating temp i did a compression test. All plugs removed, throttle wide open and fuel relay removed. Results are:

1. 135
2. 145
3. 150
4. 150
5. 150
6. 145

I didnt see the need to add a touch of oil in each cyl and retest since they seem to be within spec albeit cyl one being a bit low, but i read thats relatively normal. The front valve cover hose to airbox is wet, as it was when i swapped the engine.

Where should i turn my attention now? Valve guide seals? This engine has no leaks.
 
What is the oil usage, 1/2 qt per 1,200 miles ? While not ideal, that is not excessive for an older engine. Any external oil leaks like the valve cover or rear main seal ?
 
What is the oil usage, 1/2 qt per 1,200 miles ? While not ideal, that is not excessive for an older engine.

I agree. I've seen many 4.0 engines run for a heck of a long time with that amount of oil consumption.

Your compression numbers don't indicate any real trouble internally. Drive it.
 
My apologies, guess i wasnt clear. It appears to have lost 1.5 quarts over the past 1300 miles... excessive in my opinion.

After the compression test yesterday i called my dad, a diesel tech all his life now retired. He guided me towards looking at the tailpipe cold at under acceleration while warm. About to head outside and reinstall the plug wires and get more info.

But were figuring it'll need VG seals.
 
No smoking on cold start up or once warmed to operating temps... at idle or under load.

Only once and for just a moment i saw a tuft of white smoke coming from frontmost valve cover tubing heading towards airbox. No large stain on oil on K&N, no abnormal amount of oil on airtube to throttle body. Slight oil mist on inside of TB.

I guess i'll need to have my son follow me down the road once he gets home, see if it's smoking on engine compression braking since it's a manual?

I'm also gonna let it cool and check the tailpipe at cold start again, guess it's possible the valve guide seals didnt get much oil past them during the compression test. I should know for sure soon since i just ran it well up to temp.
 
Compressor and seals arrived and i have the head stripped to the valve springs.

How much PSI do i need to pressurize the cylinder to not drop a valve? What's the FSM call for.. or what have you done successfully. Any cons to being slightly over pressure?

I dont have access to my FSM currently, appreciate some input please. Thanks.. pics being taken to help the next guy..
 
I have pressure regulated at 30psi, not hearing any escaping air so thats a good sign.

However, it appears the retainers are sticking on the valve stem. As i crank down on the spring compressor the valve drops as well. How do i loosen the ratainers at the top of the stem so i can remove?

I dont want to over compress and damage a valve spring or stem.

springcompaction.jpg
 
The valve locks might be stuck in the keepers. Put a big enough diameter socket on the keeper that will clear the locks and give it a whack with a mallet
 
LOL...thats what Dad said..

I realized something. The fact that i'm not hearing air escaping when the valve drops means i'm not pressuring the cylinder. The hose i was using from my compression tester must have a check valve, it's not allowing air to enter into the cyl.

Now i'm searching for whatever adapter i need to hook my airsource to.
 
You could just bring each piston to TDC to keep your valves from dropping too far. Just go easy & yes the mallet trick works very well.
 
unsure, but you can also stuff rope through the spark plug hole and coil it in the cylinder.

just don't lose the end.
 
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