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Over-heating problems, CLR?

E

Elevate

NAXJA Forum User
Location
San Diego
Problem: Car had been running warm all week (>210) then two days ago it overheated twice.

Background: My heater core went bad last year, so I added water and not coolant... Got a CRAZY amount of rust that I have been battling ever since.

What's next: I'm going to do an oil change and make sure it's not a cracked head. I think it's the radiator getting clogged with rust and not working well.

I've been entertaining the idea of running CLR through the engine and then replacing the water pump and the radiator.

Thoughts?

-Mike
 
Just did an oil change and the oil came out good.

Think my radiator is plugged? Im almost at the point of just changing out parts...
 
CLR is good stuff -- I don't know if there is any reason not to put it your cooling system.

Why not use one of the heavy duty chemical cleaners (eg. Prestone) that you leave in the system for an extended period of driving?
 
Ya, I'm thinking of taking a less aggressive approach now. Im thinking the prestone flush in my coolant for a week or at least a few days should be my first step.
 
ehall said:
DO NOT USE CLR, it attacks aluminum, lead (solder), rubber and silicon, pretty much everything in the cooling system
Click to expand...

Agree with this /\

Though 210 doesn't seems to be overly HOT. Are you sure you aux fan is coming on and doing its job? When was the last Tstat put in?

Also... Rig specs might help us too.
 
At the school system I work for, the mechanics use Cascade powdered dishwasher soap
in the radiators of the diesel buses. Claims it works great.
 
GregGA said:
At the school system I work for, the mechanics use Cascade powdered dishwasher soap
in the radiators of the diesel buses. Claims it works great.
Click to expand...


Really? More info on this would be great!







So when will the first "my XJ looks like a rabid dog" thread pop up? :laugh3:
 
Cal. most of the bus mechanics are ex-big rig guys. When the oil coolers leak in the radiators, they used Cascade to remove the oil and scum. They still have some of the pre
phosphate ban powder. I don't know if the phosphate free stuff works as well for our use, but the OP wanted something mild, so it might be worth a try. We shouldn't have oil in our radiators:). They just mix some in water, add and run till the thermostat opens plus 30 minutes and drain. Then flush again.
 
Rig: 99 manual 3.07's, Running 32's, ~5" of lift, number 2 ball on the shifter :roll:

New t-stat, rad cap

I ran some Prestone Rad flush, came out nasty, plan is to run it again and again until it comes out clean.

Oh, and my water pump started grinding this morning... I think that may be it! Going to the store to replace with a hi-flow one.
 
I wouldn't use CLR, might be safe for the block but might not be so bueno for heater core and radiator. I know you said you were replacing the rad but I'm assuming you don't want to replace the heater core again?
 
If you flush and fill, use distilled water when you refill it. At least around here, tap water in a radiator will make rusty mud in a few months.
 
Flushed 4 times and it got a lot cleaner. Still think I'm dealing with a clogged rad, still runs hotter than normal, but hasn't gotten past that 222.5 tick (the one after 210) yet. Don't want to wheel till i get a new rad, also looking into a high flow water pump. Hesco?
 
wasillashack said:
Anyone tried muriatic acid to clean/flush radiators and heater cores?
Click to expand...

Muriatic acid is the worst thing you could use!!!! It is also known as hydrochloric acid. Eats up aluminum and copper and zinc like it is nothing!

Sulfamic acid or oxalic acid are pretty safe for the multiple metals, and they are commonly used in products like Preston flushes. Vinegar (also called acetic acid) is also an excellent choice.
 
Went ahead and bought a new radiator, just a stock replacement from radiator barn, $100 shipped.

Hopefully this solves my cooling issues
 
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