91 xj on 3/4 ton full width axles

Well, this is just a teaser for the project that I hope to have completed this time next year.



I picked up a set of axles from a 74 f250. They are a rear Dana 60 8 bolt and a front Dana 44 8 bolt with closed knuckles, warn hubs, and it's a low pinion, not my favorite pick for a front, but I love the look of closed knuckles. The front is already a high steer set up, one less thing to worry about, and has a hydro assist that was factory. I have some home work to do, but I'd like to incorporate the hydro assist into the rebuild.



This is what the set up is now, really just a rustys 8" long arm lift, with 35s. It's been a fun rig to run on the trails, but I want to do some tougher trails and run 37s.

My goal for the year is really just to get the axles built and installed, and larger tires purchased and installed. I don't know much about the closed knuckle. I do know many people say to junk it, but I like the look and I always like to be different. Any input on this type of axle would be much appreciated.

Good luck with the build! I'm in the middle of close to the same deal (44/9) so ill be watching this!

30 spline rear, 30 spline closed knuckle front........not worth much, and not much worth doing. Sorry.

Find a D60 front from an F350, and search to find out how to hog out the spindles on nthe rear so you can put in some 35 spline axles, and you'll need a 35 spline locker for the rear.

Or just find a D60 out of a 99+ E350 and slide 35 spline shafts in and already have dual piston caliper disc brakes ready to go.

The rear 60 is probably course 16 spline and pretty much everything on the 44 is a outdated and obsolete. You'd be much better off with a 44/60 from a 78/79 F250.

Find a D60 front from an F350, and search to find out how to hog out the spindles on nthe rear so you can put in some 35 spline axles, and you'll need a 35 spline locker for the rear.[/QUOTE]

This was the plan for the rear, I know the stock 60s aren't very strong for wheeling, but it's a strong base to build on. I always wanted to do a Dana 60 front, but the price is a bit steep for those. Probably worth it though in the long run.

foxwar71 said:

The rear 60 is probably course 16 spline and pretty much everything on the 44 is a outdated and obsolete. You'd be much better off with a 44/60 from a 78/79 F250.

Click to expand...

This was one of my main concerns with the front 44. There still seems to be a big following of the old high boy f250s of this vintage, so I was still hoping to be able to find parts.

I still have an eye out for a later model f250/350 that I can rob of axles if this set up just doesn't pencil out.

That and the axle u joints are the same size as a Dana 30.....

I am in the middle of the same swap but out of a 79 f250. Already in for too much $ so going to ride out my decision. My 60 is a 30 spline full float. At least it is upgradable later. I am going to run 37s as well so we will see how long it all stays together. Going to run alloys but the small ears and u joints scare me. Can always go to RCVs later but can get a 60 for that much $. I won't be going over 37s ever unless this becomes a buggy and I don't see that happening.

If you're going to run full width, then there is no reason whatsoever to use a front D44. You must get chromo axles and chromo axle joints, or you'll snap the stock D44 parts like tooth picks with 37" tires. Once you add the cost for that, you might as well spend the money for a D60 that you can run with the stock axles.

If it were me I'd find a '75-76 open knuckle (or pretty much any open knuckle pre '77) f-150 1/2 ton HP44 ... it'll be 1/2" tubed beast, with easily removed welded radius arm mounts and readilly converted to the 3/4 ton disks (and high pinion). I can ususally find them with drums for less than $100 up here last I looked ... since you'd be converting the knuckles anyway drums are not an issue, just a cost saving move. Any 3/4 ton D44 with open knuckles would yield the parts for the disk swap. Take it one step futher and toss D50 knuckles on it and have a larger u-joint to boot.
The issue with the closed knuckle is trying to convert it to disks, last time I researched it, just not going to happen ... I only found one guy making conversion brackets and he had stopped by the time I contacted him. But that was a few years ago so maybe someone else has taken up the reigns.

Goatman said:

If you're going to run full width, then there is no reason whatsoever to use a front D44. You must get chromo axles and chromo axle joints, or you'll snap the stock D44 parts like tooth picks with 37" tires. Once you add the cost for that, you might as well spend the money for a D60 that you can run with the stock axles.

Click to expand...

Great point. I am going to stick with full width axles, I want the stability benefits of full width.

Looks like I'll be shopping for a front 60.

I'm going to tear into the rear 60 this week to see what the story with that is.

I was just reading something cracker said about you and breaking stuff, I'd be a fool to not listen to someone with your experience.

Devilfrog said:

If it were me I'd find a '75-76 open knuckle (or pretty much any open knuckle pre '77) f-150 1/2 ton HP44 ... it'll be 1/2" tubed beast, with easily removed welded radius arm mounts and readilly converted to the 3/4 ton disks (and high pinion). I can ususally find them with drums for less than $100 up here last I looked ... since you'd be converting the knuckles anyway drums are not an issue, just a cost saving move. Any 3/4 ton D44 with open knuckles would yield the parts for the disk swap. Take it one step futher and toss D50 knuckles on it and have a larger u-joint to boot.
The issue with the closed knuckle is trying to convert it to disks, last time I researched it, just not going to happen ... I only found one guy making conversion brackets and he had stopped by the time I contacted him. But that was a few years ago so maybe someone else has taken up the reigns.

Click to expand...

That's a pretty hard axle to find in these parts and if you do they are pricy.

There is or was a guy that had a kit that included the brackets, rotors and calipers for a little over $500. There is also some build sheets out there for a junk yrd build conversion that cost a couple hundred.

Goatman said:

If you're going to run full width, then there is no reason whatsoever to use a front D44. You must get chromo axles and chromo axle joints, or you'll snap the stock D44 parts like tooth picks with 37" tires. Once you add the cost for that, you might as well spend the money for a D60 that you can run with the stock axles.

Click to expand...

Yeah there is....find one already tabbed for xj for cheap and not have the skills or tools to fab mounts on a 60. That's how I ended up with a 44. Alloy shafts aren't that expensive either and more ground clearance. I am in it now so too late.

Goatman said:

If you're going to run full width, then there is no reason whatsoever to use a front D44. You must get chromo axles and chromo axle joints, or you'll snap the stock D44 parts like tooth picks with 37" tires. Once you add the cost for that, you might as well spend the money for a D60 that you can run with the stock axles.

Click to expand...

This is one of the few times I have to disagree with Goatman. I picked up my Dana 44 for $150 and spent $100 on brackets. My Dana 30 had eaten the ring and pinion, so I'm back on the trail for about what fixing the 30 would have cost. I'm only running 35's and the stock shafts have held up this wheeling season. Yes I will need to buy chromos, but I would have missed 2 rubicon trips saving for a 60. Would a 60 be cheaper in the long run? Sure. The cost of waiting to wheel until I can afford the 60 on the other hand is NOT worth it. Some of us wheel on a very limited budget and still manage to wheel. The question isn't whats the better axle, it's what's better for now? It's not smith xrc vs warn, but cheap winch or no winch. Money IS a good reason to run a full width 44 vs no front axle.

zachandandy said:

This is one of the few times I have to disagree with Goatman. I picked up my Dana 44 for $150 and spent $100 on brackets. My Dana 30 had eaten the ring and pinion, so I'm back on the trail for about what fixing the 30 would have cost. I'm only running 35's and the stock shafts have held up this wheeling season. Yes I will need to buy chromos, but I would have missed 2 rubicon trips saving for a 60. Would a 60 be cheaper in the long run? Sure. The cost of waiting to wheel until I can afford the 60 on the other hand is NOT worth it. Some of us wheel on a very limited budget and still manage to wheel. The question isn't whats the better axle, it's what's better for now? It's not smith xrc vs warn, but cheap winch or no winch. Money IS a good reason to run a full width 44 vs no front axle.

Click to expand...

Of course my comment was relating to a new build and running 37" tires......neither of which apply to your situation.