• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

head bolts

P

paulis50

NAXJA Forum User
Location
california
kinda new first post i have 87 all stock have had it for 14 years. pass it on to son after sitting a while, he loves it now as do I. It over heated blew head gasket! family said junk it ,just cant do it, had the head redone a couple of valves bad ,new exhaust manifold change out cooling system. I am looking for new head bolts for 87 4.0 I can find later years but not for use in a 87! i have put a lot of time and a few $ and dont want to do this again! so if you all know were I might find new head bolts please let me know. also if I am missing something else to make this jeep run a few more trouble free years please give me your thoughts thank you
 
order and use the head bolts from the later model-- the only change was above the mounting surface where the new ones will have a raised locator for the newer style valve cover gaskets.
 
I know all the books say to replace the head bolts...

But I never have, on any engine I have worked on. Torque to spec and recheck after it has heat cycled.
 
Look for some old threads here where 5-90 (Muadib and Ecomike) discusses putting copper silicone sealer on the one front drivers side head bolt, bottom threads (IIRC) to get a fool proof, rust proof, coolant seal. Good idea to use it on the exhaust manifold gasket too. There is also a need to make a special bolt out of an old head bolt for alignment-head installation, and the rear drivers side head bolt needs to be in the head (I held mine in place with duct tape), before you lower the head on the block, if the block is still in the jeep.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=948827&page=3
 
dunno about the older blocks (like the OP's) but on the motor I just pulled from my 98 there are two alignment dowels pressed into the block that keep you from putting the head on in the wrong spot.
 
There is no alignment on the older ones. It's not easy getting the head and gasket set in place. Making a special bolt for alignment sounds like a good idea.
 
5-90 had us cut the head off two old head bolts, then we sawed a slice in the middle for a large screw driver. We installed those two bolts to help with alignment so we could get the head on straight with out damaging the head gasket or geting a screwed up slipped disk in the lower back spinal cord :(while levatating :laugh2: >150 lbs over the block, LOL.

Then we used a screw driver and if needed a magnet finally to get the 2 guide bolts back out. Works great!!!!
 
No way does a 4.0 head weigh 150+. They aren't light but damn, I'm guessing 80 or so.

Good to know about the earlier motors not having those dowels.
 
The alignment dowel trick is a good one, worked well on my 94 a few years ago. And a 4.0 head weighs around 70 lbs.
 
kastein said:
No way does a 4.0 head weigh 150+. They aren't light but damn, I'm guessing 80 or so.

Good to know about the earlier motors not having those dowels.
Click to expand...

It does if you add the exhaust and intake manifolds to the load on the side of the head (premount and pretorque the manifold bolts to avoid the PITA afterwards), and then add an 18-24" lever arm at your shoulders, and gut, LOL!

Feels like a 150 lbs easy!!!! Took me (I am getting old, LOL), my 20 YO weight lifting son and 17 YO daughter to manuver and suspend the assy and lower-install it by hand when we did it, as we all had to grab it at arms length (OUCH!!!). Trick is getting it lined up, and under the firewall that is in the way, with out damaging the head gasket and scrapping knuckles before your back gives out.

Probably much easier with a lift,:yelclap: which was not handy the day we did the head.
 
DON'T REUSE THE HEAD BOLTS!!! I speak from experience. The bolts are designed to stretch with the specified torque and can be used maybe once after initial use. Don;t make the mistake. They are to be tightened in a sequence to prevent warpage. Just one breaking will mess up the sequence and then starts the periodic breakage with the end result being all of them being replaced at one time. At the time I did it they were like $7 each. IIRC there are 14 of them. Special instructions for #11. Get a copy of the installation for the head out of a FSM. Or wing it and take a chance.
 
Well, it depends. If they are "Torque To Yield" they definitely cannot be reused. If they are not, then theoretically you could reuse them but if you are a cautious type you'll replace them anyway. The giveaway is the torque procedure. If the procedure is just several steps of various torque settings, then likely they are not TTY. If the final step of the procedure is something like "x ft-lbs. plus 1/4 turn" then they probably are TTY and it would be silly to not buy new ones.
 
Ecomike said:
It does if you add the exhaust and intake manifolds to the load on the side of the head (premount and pretorque the manifold bolts to avoid the PITA afterwards), and then add an 18-24" lever
arm at your shoulders, and gut, LOL!
Click to expand...


It isnt that bad to install the manifolds, just need the right tools. Long extension and a swivel.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

4
Timing gear?
Replies
3
Views
101
4x4JeePmaNthINg
4
O
0331 Strikes Again...?
Replies
11
Views
301
Ol Blue
O
D
Temp Gauge Reads High With New Senosr
Replies
15
Views
1K
TheDXJ
T
G
Coolant System No Pressure
Replies
9
Views
2K
Woodswanderer
W
Root Moose
Cooling System Reset (2000 XJ)
Replies
1
Views
1K
Rob Mayercik
R
Back
Top