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TRE @ pitman arm frequently failing

Talyn

NAXJA Forum User
I have to frequently replace the tie rod end at the pitman arm. Its the only steering component that regulatory fails. This is with 3.5" lift, 31" tires, and stock steering aside from IRO tie bar and JKS track bar. The steering gets greased regularly. Below are the mileages I have recorded and the TRE I used.

68,220 Napa OEM+
82,000 Moog
101,200 Napa
111,482 not recorded
127,522 Napa 269-2778
and now at 137,600, replacing with a Moog

Any idea why?
 
Binding at full droop, assuming you wheel it. Let the passenger side droop out on something, and take a look at that tre. I'll bet that the stud is binding in the race.
 
Possible bind at droop. And I have to change mine bout once a year. That TRE takes a hell of a punishment, every time you turn or hit a bump its one that moves the most. Just usr a good quality tre, the Moog one has about 5 degrees more range and uses a teflon line stainless cup verses most others use a plastic cup for the ball to ride on. You can also try a drop pitman arm and get the steering angles back to stock, but u shouldn't need to.
 
Ok, its not binding at droop as it is not longer wheeled, at least not in something that would twist it up that much. Please read the thread.

If I buy a drop pitman arm it will screw up the draglink and tracbar angles.
 
After I hydrolocked the engine...

I know this has nothing to do with TRE/steering problems, but this 'hydrolocked' never sounds good.
 
Whats better than Moog?
NAPA Premium.

When the guy at the counter told me that their premium line was the only one that still uses a steel liner in the socket, I thought he was trying to sell me some snake oil. Then, I heard the same thing from a mechanic I trust. Soon after, I asked one of the local guys who builds H.D. steering, he recommends the same. It has been well over a year without having to warrranty any of those parts, a new record for me.

BTW, don't buy the lower priced TREs from NAPA, they are no better than anything else on the market.
 
Nope it isn't. Water was a bit to deep. It took a sip. Didn't kill it right away. It developed a tick on one cylinder, which was damage to the piston. 7000 miles later the piston took up residence in the oil pan.
 
NAPA Premium.

When the guy at the counter told me that their premium line was the only one that still uses a steel liner in the socket,
I'll look into them. Thanx
BTW, don't buy the lower priced TREs from NAPA,
The phrase "you get what you pay for" appears more true now then ever.
 
Nope it isn't. Water was a bit to deep. It took a sip. Didn't kill it right away. It developed a tick on one cylinder, which was damage to the piston. 7000 miles later the piston took up residence in the oil pan.

Ouch that hurts. Maybe there is something more to the cowl induction intakes like spectre and THOR.
Thanks, this helps me to not want to try and mod the stock air cleaner location. Your experience and advice is well taken. TY.
 
Yeah track bar drop would be needed. Didn't think I needed to list all of the instuctions. Read the thread also and bind is the usual culprit my bad. Buy good parts ans replace them yearly. If your not wheelin then there's no reason for premature wear except cheap parts.
. Dunno when Moog changed to plastic liner but that's goodto know.
 
Moog parts suck lately.
I may have to agree with that.
NAPA Premium.
I went to napa this morning and they couldn't get the premium until Wednesday. I then went Advance thinking Moog would be ok for a while. And I wanted to get this done this weekend.

Well, its in. And it has just as much play as the one that was removed.

Buy good parts ans replace them yearly. If your not wheelin then there's no reason for premature wear except cheap parts.
Thats just it. I know not to buy cheap parts.
 
I'm actually in the exact same boat. Replaced mine with a RockAuto unit, don't remember the name. That was around 12,000 miles ago, and just like Talyn it's the only place in the steering that has a clunk. Totally stock steering, 5.5", IRO trackbar. Most of my wheeling consists of beaches, back trails, and running over bushes on medians. My tires rub in the rear way before I can get close to full stuff.
 
Talyn said:
I then went Advance thinking Moog would be ok for a while. And I wanted to get this done this weekend.

Well, its in. And it has just as much play as the one that was removed.
Wow!

I was looking for part numbers for someone else a few nights ago. I seem to remember some text about them being porous, to hold the grease longer...or some such snake oil. :looney:
 
I read a few threads on a few other forums that state Moog is just reboxed chicrap. The first Moog that Advance wanted to give me was in a white box labeled Moog. The box was dirty and the parts package had already been opened. The TRe looks like it had been greased with something other than I am use to seeing on new joints. They got another one that was in the standard blue and yellow Moog box. It looked clean and new. The Tres also looked much different. I don't know what was going on with that first one, if it was a real Moog or someone just returned a different brand. My memory may be hazy, but the last time I bought a Moog it had a label in it that said "Made in Canada". Not so this time.

And now that I think about it I had the same problem a few years back with the Napa brand. One bad right out of the box.
 
What's the matter with an OEM part from the dealer? Cost?
 
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