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Dorman Harmonic Balancer; anybody tried it?

my2monkeys

my2monkeys

NAXJA Member
Location
Mission Viejo, CA
I need a HB on my wifes 95 GC, Dorman and Precision Parts Powerbond are my choices.

Need some info. on quality of these brands.

Also, what's the deal with havig to remove the "oil slinger" with some HB's?
 
I have no experience with the powerbond one, but the dorman I picked up was .006 too small on the ID, it wouldn't even go on. I ended up going and pulling one from a wrecked XJ at the junkyard.
 
I see after searching that you and others had problems with Dorman.

Maybe i'll go to the jy today (half price days) and see what they got.

Just trying to loosen that bolt has got me worried, breaker bar I guess.

Thanks for the help.
 
Bolt was easy IIRC, pulling it and pressing in on was fun!!!
 
yeah the bolt comes out real easy. you're going to need to buy or rent a puller to get the balancer off though. you need the type that screws into the face of the balancer, not a jaw style that pulls from the outside edges.
 
As I recall I had to use the small bolts and a long bar across the bolts to hold the crank shaft still while turning the center bolt in the pulling process. Hard not to bend one of the small bolts in the process. Is there another way to do that, like parking brakes on and tranmission in drive or something? Or a special tool separate tool that grabs the balancer? I guess a standard transmission and brakes would work, but what about an AW4?
 
I just used a cheapo puller from autozone, the whole set was like $13. its the style that looks like a peace sign without the circle around it, comes with bolts and everything.
 
GrimmJeeper said:
I just used a cheapo puller from autozone, the whole set was like $13. its the style that looks like a peace sign without the circle around it, comes with bolts and everything.
Click to expand...

I used the other style from AZ also (I have the one you described, but could not find it when I needed it, LOL), but either way, you need to keep the crank shaft from turning while turning the center bolt that draws the HB off the shaft, how did you do that?
 
i didn't, the puller mainscrew should have a pivot on the end that allows it to spin without effecting the crank, compression should keep the crank from turning. once the balancer starts to move it comes off quite easily.
 
GrimmJeeper said:
i didn't, the puller mainscrew should have a pivot on the end that allows it to spin without effecting the crank, compression should keep the crank from turning. once the balancer starts to move it comes off quite easily.
Click to expand...

Mine was not easy, not after 265,000 miles and 25 years. And I have marginal compression, 115-120 IIRC. And I used lots of pen lube PB Blaster first.
 
The Dorman I bought was fine. I worried about getting that main bolt off too, worthless worry. It came right off. As far as the Dorman part, too soon to tell. Only been on there about 6 months.

Putting it back on was a chore until I realized I had missed the keyway by 1/16". When I got it lined up it just pushed (by hand) about 3/4 of the way on. I used a spare bolt and some washers to snug it up and then put the main bolt back in, finger tightened it, then torqued it up.

Easiest line up the key way if you can get it pointing straight down, lau underneath and eyeball it right in there. I did NOT have to remove the radiator, bumper, or anything extra.
 
I had the same experience as Paradise, it looked like it was machined inside the snout, but mine slid on, been going strong since. About 3 months old.
 
GrimmJeeper said:
I have no experience with the powerbond one, but the dorman I picked up was .006 too small on the ID, it wouldn't even go on. I ended up going and pulling one from a wrecked XJ at the junkyard.
Click to expand...

I remember that day. :D We tried like three Dormans.
 
What about wedging a rag in the belt? Or holding the HB with a strap wrench? Worstcomes to worst you could pull the inspection plate, and secure the flywheel

Edit: or just go to an AX-15 rig, it eliminates all sorts of silly problems, like worrying about trans cooler lines, shifting issues, and excess heat.
 
Last edited:
Got it done! I went with the O reillys unit made in Australia.

Used the breakerbar on the frame and turn the starter trick.Only took 3 tries and bingo the bolt was off!

Seems like a good one. Was a nice tight install on the hub.

Went on good using longer bolt for pressing it on.Thanks for the tips you guys.

picture.php



The old one was wobbling pretty bad, time for the trash can.
picture.php
picture.php
 
Mike Mike said:
Just put a Doorman on today. No problems. Used a 1/2- 20 bolt an inch longer than stock to draw it on. Put the trans in reverse and parking brake on.
Click to expand...

I had forgotten, that is what I ended up doing, using a longer bolt!

A chain or strap wrench might work. Nice idea.
 
i have a post on the modified section. i used a powerbond . it is bottomed out on the nose of the crank and sticks out to far. the serp belt wont line up. i looked into buying a Mopar one as i work for a dealer. the new mopar one has a big foot note.remove timing chain cover remove inner oil slinger. reinstall timing cover.im wondering if the powerbond one is going to require the same thing.mine has 245k on the engine. i really dont want to disturb anything.
 
jeeptec said:
i have a post on the modified section. i used a powerbond . it is bottomed out on the nose of the crank and sticks out to far. the serp belt wont line up. i looked into buying a Mopar one as i work for a dealer. the new mopar one has a big foot note.remove timing chain cover remove inner oil slinger. reinstall timing cover.im wondering if the powerbond one is going to require the same thing.mine has 245k on the engine. i really dont want to disturb anything.
Click to expand...

When I removed the bolt and washer from the old HB I noticed that it did not sit flush with the end of the crankshaft.

It was 1/16 in front of the nose of the crank. The belt was lining up, so I guess that how it needs to be.

When I put the new one on I just pressed it on until it was at the same spot at the timing mark indicator (for in-out reference).

Actually I thought it was hitting the T/C cover but there's a flat washers thickness between the cover and back of pulley.

The belt shows no signs of being out of alignment so I'm just going to keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't wear into cover.
 
Mine is an 87, and I just swapped them, did nothing else, and mine also, before and after, looks like it nearly touches the T/C cover too, just about 1/16" of gap. That was a good 20,000 miles and >2 years ago, and no S-belt issues. Mine is at 287,000 miles now.
 
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