Auxillary reverse lights.....placement?

I'm planning on adding some extra reverse lights since the OEM lights aren't that bright, but I'm undecided on where to mount them. As soon as my gutter mounts come in, I'll get my roof basket mounted....but I'm also in the process of designing a new rear bumper with tire carrier. I'm thinking that mounting them on the roof basket would provide better overall lighting than in or on the bumper. I'm also thinking that mounting them on the rack is going to be an extra hassle if I decide to take it off.

So, that brings me back to mounting them on the bumper, which creates another problem. I want to seal the outboard ends of the bumper for use as air tanks. If I recess the lights into the bumper ends, then I'm also stuck with trying to figure out how to access the light mounting hardware and how to run the wiring. Maybe mount them on the swingarm for the tire carrier? Not sure how I'll like the look of that though.

What do you guys think?

I mounted my lights (two 5" flood lights for trucks, bought at Kragen for $10 each) on the swingarm for the tire carrier. With the tire on you can barely see them. They put out tons of light - very happy with them. I used a relay and switched the relay on with the reverse light power signal and also a separate switch with diode. When I go reverse, all 4 lights go on (2 stock, 2 floods). Or they turn on when I hit the switch (good for offroading). Use the diode on the switched input or you will throw a CEL on later models.

My extra reverse lights are mounted on my receiver hitch that came from Autozone. No switch required, just tied into the oem reverse lights. I also added strings of Led lights under the truck and the front tires which aid in night wheeling.

I.m putting a single 39 LED 2in x 9in backup light in the center rear of my rack. It can act as a backup light and be able to shine down thru the window of an open hatch for area/work light.
All my rack lighting is thru a trailer plug on the roof. 8 bolts on the gutter mounts and a plug, off comes the rack.

May not be what you're looking for, but a nifty idea.....

http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoReverseLights.htm

the_weirdo said:

I mounted my lights (two 5" flood lights for trucks, bought at Kragen for $10 each) on the swingarm for the tire carrier. With the tire on you can barely see them. They put out tons of light - very happy with them. I used a relay and switched the relay on with the reverse light power signal and also a separate switch with diode. When I go reverse, all 4 lights go on (2 stock, 2 floods). Or they turn on when I hit the switch (good for offroading). Use the diode on the switched input or you will throw a CEL on later models.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip on the diode, mine is a 2000 model. I was planning on adding a switch, but I haven't figured out exactly how to accomplish what I want to do. I'd like to be able to turn off the extra lights when I'm in town(no need to blind folks in a lighted parking lot), but I'd still like to be able to turn them on manually too. Three position switch and two relays?

Mike Mike said:

I.m putting a single 39 LED 2in x 9in backup light in the center rear of my rack. It can act as a backup light and be able to shine down thru the window of an open hatch for area/work light.
All my rack lighting is thru a trailer plug on the roof. 8 bolts on the gutter mounts and a plug, off comes the rack.

Click to expand...

That's a great idea! What type of plug did you use, RV type 7 pin? What brand of light is it? Pics? I was looking at LED spot/flood lights a day or two ago. Found some really bright ones(2000+ lumens) that were priced pretty high.

Just a flat 5 pin. The wires are run thru a grommet and the plug lays on the roof by one of the gutter mounts. I only put it on so I wouldn't have to cut wires if I ever needed to remove the rack.
The light I ordered is a 2" x 9" oval backup light that mounts in a rubber grommet. I'd have to hunt up who I ordered from. that infos on another puter. It was 40 dollarish.

FWIW years of driving big trucks, utility trucks, ambulances etc. the higher the light the better the view.

On the big trucks you can really see the difference when you switch on a pair of elcheapo utility lights that are mounted high on a headache rack and pointed outward.

As soon as I get a roof rack I'm putting a set up there on a three way switch.

That's been my experience too(though I don't drive commercial vehicles). Since I've got a better idea on a quick and easy disconnect, they're going on the rack.

machinisttx said:

Thanks for the tip on the diode, mine is a 2000 model. I was planning on adding a switch, but I haven't figured out exactly how to accomplish what I want to do. I'd like to be able to turn off the extra lights when I'm in town(no need to blind folks in a lighted parking lot), but I'd still like to be able to turn them on manually too. Three position switch and two relays?



That's a great idea! What type of plug did you use, RV type 7 pin? What brand of light is it? Pics? I was looking at LED spot/flood lights a day or two ago. Found some really bright ones(2000+ lumens) that were priced pretty high.

Click to expand...

You need a three position (on off on) switch, and one relay. The center terminal is wired to the coil of the relay. One side of the switch would be wired to a constant power source. The other to the OEM reverse light +. The relay would be wired like normal with the trigger wire running through the switch. This will give you (on) through the constant hot, (off) off completely, and (on) on with the factory reverse lights. Each circuit is mechanically separate from each other within the switch. No need for any diodes or multiple relays.

scoobyxj said:

You need a three position (on off on) switch, and one relay. The center terminal is wired to the coil of the relay. One side of the switch would be wired to a constant power source. The other to the OEM reverse light +. The relay would be wired like normal with the trigger wire running through the switch. This will give you (on) through the constant hot, (off) off completely, and (on) on with the factory reverse lights. Each circuit is mechanically separate from each other within the switch. No need for any diodes or multiple relays.

Click to expand...

Ok, but by doing that I'm going to be pulling more amperage through the switch, right? Or am I thinking about it the wrong way, and the constant hot would simply trigger the relay like the reverse light circuit(in other words, low amp draw)? Also, won't power be back feeding into the switch from the trigger wire connection at the relay? Is that going to be an issue?

Electrical stuff isn't my strong point. :dunce: I learned a little while studying for my ham radio exams, but not a lot.