Renix Cooling stuff I did......

Well I finally pulled my factory brass tow package radiator and had it rodded and boiled and painted, it has never been out since I owned it for 12 years and I knew the last owners and serviced it since new....... 1990 XJ Laredo

It was 35% plugged..... Jeep running a little warmer then normal.... it was due.......

I never converted to open system with newer radiator off 91 up as the brass replacements are very expensive, I just never liked plastic tanked radiators.... they tend to just split with no warning in my experinces.....

I decided to convert my closed system to open system and get rid of the troublesome expansion bottle I have replaced with OE ones many times and I hate the clutter....... Since I got rid of the crappy Bendix ABS which was giving me probs again, I could ditch the 20 pound Shelf for the ABS pump and expansion bottle.....

I installed my fresh cleaned OE HD closed system radiator, Durango 4.7 filler neck and 15 psi cap in upper hose, 95 heater hoses, trimmed Renix heater control valve to work with 95 heater hoses, ditched Renix expansion bottle and shelf, installed 91 windshield washer bottle and wired and plumbed in place of Renix expansion bottle shelf, installed 91 coolant bottle and 91 PDC bracket to mount bottle, flipped, trimmed and modded Renix relay bank and diagnostic connector bracket and attached to 91 naked PDC /coolant bottle bracket, relocated and mounted Renix ignition coil and module next to brake master cylinder where the 90 windshield washer bottle used to be and did not fit to well after booster/master upgrade,had to extend a/c compressor harness, ignition coil/module harness, washer bottle harness and hoses and a long coil wire off a small block chevy HEI wire set, number 2# cylinder wire....... Also replaced OEM battery cables, they where goo from heat and age..... Already did the battery cable upgrade from alternator and added chassis grounds years ago, those where good..........

I am happy using the stock 91 up coolant overflow, never found a good overflow set up for the Renix closed to open cooling conversions I liked.....

I also like the 91 windshield washer bottle and location, the 90 bottle was just to crammed against the ZJ brake booster, less clutter on that side now.......

Another plus is the coil/ignition module is out of the harsh enviroment where its located stock Renix, its higher up and more protected....... I dont mind the long coil wire now, it seems to be just as long as Dodge 5.2/5.9 coil wires...... runs the same. its bolted right to the fender well seam, very solid mounting.... I was going to mod the stock coil bracket, but I think this works better and is alot easier.......

Next project is install a good factory exhaust manifold I have been saving with no cracks, exhaust wrap it, noticed my utmost rear exhaust stud on head is gone also...my manifold is cracked pretty good......

New factory style motormounts as my poly insert motor mounts I installed years ago are sagging......Just need to get caught up on all the stuff that needs attention I have been putting off, then i can do some mods on my list.....

Next on my to do list is replace the long factory A/C hoses for a more direct route to the expansion vlave off the compressor and dryer with Galaxy hose for 134r........ less clutter and will still get to the upright oil filter pretty easily........

Rags said:

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probably not too much difference, but it seems like a longer coil wire will increase resistance and higher temps. from proximity to the exhaust will exacerbate the problem at the coil. Maybe I'm just over thinking it-- how long have you been running the coil in that location?

I'd definitely like to sanitize the Renix engine bay, I just can't wrap my brain around that location yet. I guess I'll have to wait and see how it works out-- thanx for the idea and future updates will be appreciated!

P.S. shock removal looks like it might be a little tougher now

I was going to mount the coil /ignition moudule under the 91 washer bottle, but I felt it was to close to the blower motor and would get electrical noise from the blower motor, then thought about moving the charcol cannister and moving the coil thier, but it would still be in the harsh place as the stock local but just a litte farther back towards the firewall...... Ignition wires have really come a long way in resistence and construction, Dodge Ram truck 5.2/5.9 have used long coil wires for a long time and the coil is inches from the hot exhaust manifold, very few failures on the open non plastic non incapsualted updated coils, I might be able to mount the coil/module beside the relay bank when I update the oh to long A/C hoses and that would free up room between the fender and relay bank....... another thought was use the 91 up coil bracket and mount coil itself to the block like the HO 4.0 and mount the ignition module on the firewall up high next to the cruise servo mount point.... Renix coil and ignition module can be seperated, just need a clean way to run coil power wires out of the Renix module....... I dont think there will be a heat problem where the coil/module is mounted now, the 91 UP PCM is mounted on that side of the engine bay and the Renix coil/ignition module is a little more durable then Chrysler Pcm's in my opnion ....... I just did all this work and will have to see how it all works out, I dont think I will have any problems...... It really cleaned up the engine bay, the starter relay mounted right to the 91 PDC bracket and really helped the rats nest of fusible links......

Do auto parts stores stock that upper hose inline filler neck you got? Or was that a JY part?

1990JEEPXJ said:

Do auto parts stores stock that upper hose inline filler neck you got? Or was that a JY part?

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Dorman - OE Solutions Upper Radiator Hose Coolant Filler



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• Part No. 902-305
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• Replacement Parts
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don't know if this is the one the OP used, but it's a regular stock item at my local Advance Autos and would fit the bill nicely

Yes, that is the filler neck, make sure you get a new upper stock hose or your hose is fairly new and pliable, the inlet/outlet is larger then a stock XJ hose and a little fiddling to get the hose to fit on the neck, but once you do no worries about the hoses coming off the neck...even the spring clamps that come with the neck will work perfectly and will be a clean install instead of worm clamps......

2002 Dodge Durango 4.7 engine 4x4 if ordering from parts counter.......
Get Durango coolent cap also, its 15 PSI...........
You will spend just as much time burping air from the system, but so far it is working great for me...... Watch your hood clearence, I flipped over the bracket for the heater hoses off the compressor and use it to support the durnago neck, get the neck as high as you can get it during burping, then put the neck as far down as you can get it after burping so it wont hit hood....... I am going to drill one ear on the cap and install a bathtub chain and hook so cap will not unscrew on its own....... another piece of mind

Also they make a ton of inline hose fillers..... So far the plastic Durango neck is the least expensive and easy to get locally.......What ever you want to spend, you can get 1 1/2 or 1 1/4 hose size necks.......

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?No=0&Ne=1 2 3 13 1147708&Ntt=in+line+hose+fillers&Ntk=all&langId=-1&storeId=10001&Jnar=0&N=0&catalogId=10002&Nty=0

Also you can pick an upper Dodge hose with a filler neck from the salvage yard and remove the hose from it and use the cap also....might save you a few bucks...... I looked at my Upull and they didnt have any Dodges with a fill neck available, I would have used that and I bet the neck, hose and cap would have been 10 bucks or less......

LOL....crap my engine bay is dirty, I used to keep it really clean, a clean engine bay is a happy engine bay...... Bet its been 8 years since i cleaned it.........

I have a spare Renix intake, valve cover and minty stock Renix exhaust manifold I have saved for years, I will see if I am up to polishing the valve cover, intake and wrapping the new/used exhaust manifold since since my stock exhaust manifold is cracked bad and noticed rear stud on head for mani is gone, most likely snapped off...... sigh, then I know I will have to replace all the freeze plugs with brass ones since intake/exhaust mani is off for replacement......