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Chrome or alloy

Boss Cherokee

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Riverside Calif.
Well I finally broke an axle shaft after 21 years on my Detroit locked 28 spline 9" Ford. Need Guru advice and comments on whether to go with 4130 alloy (4340?) or just go with the cut down full size 1978-79 Bronco F150 like I had before?? I know I should go with 31 spline or more but I don't want to replace the locker, they are too much money now. The stockers lasted 21 years of Moab, Hammers, dunes, & more. I was told by a Currie sales person that Chrome moly is too hard for the rear axle. So there in lies the dilema!!! :lecture:
 
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how much more is it for chromos than having stockers shortened and resplined? i'm guessing not much....
 
I'm running Chrome in 1 axle in my front 31 spline 9 with 44 outters, I recently replaced 1 not because the axle broke but because a ujoint cap fell out & wiped out the ears. I always said I'd replace them with Chrome moly as they broke. The problem is I know rears get more torque & load so too hard an alloy or treated & they'll break easier!
 
how much more is it for chromos than having stockers shortened and resplined? i'm guessing not much....
I can get 2 complete axles with new bearings & retainers for under $500.00 or cut & respline mine for $120.00 each + bearings, which are about $30-40.00. The 5 Benjamins is good price but will they be too hard for 36" tire torque??:huh:
 
well if it makes you feel any better, i still busted a chromoly shaft in my dana 30 without damaging the ring and pinion or anything on 35's.
 
Chromo axles are not "too hard" and therefor not strong.. thats crazy talk. You won't find a competition rig without chromo (or 300M) axles in it. If it were not the absolute best way to go, they wouldn't be doign it.

I'd spend the cash for chromo shafts. Call up RWK or National Drivetrain and see what kind of deal you can get. You're already spending $250 to put stock shafts back in - investigate what it would take to get a real axle in there.
 
i was thinking they said "too hard" as in they dont have as much torsional twist as a stock shaft, making them a little harder on the locker and gears. not that i think that, that's just how i read it.
 
i was thinking they said "too hard" as in they dont have as much torsional twist as a stock shaft, making them a little harder on the locker and gears. not that i think that, that's just how i read it.

Chromo axels are not too hard. It will just make some other component the weak link. Also, if the housing is tweaked the chromo axels will wreak havoc on the bearings.
 
So will stock axles.

This thread is full of bad information.

Maybe remotely related on a small semblance of engineering logic, but in practical application, knee deep bullshit.

:)
 
Chromo axels are not too hard. It will just make some other component the weak link. Also, if the housing is tweaked the chromo axels will wreak havoc on the bearings.
like i said, it is only how i understood what was read. it is not my opinion on chromo shafts.
 
78-79 Bronco/F150 are 31 spline not 28 so, that wasn't what you had in there (they would have been tapered roller bearing as well).....maybe F100.

As for having to buy a new locker, you really don't have to.....when I converted my early Bronco to 31 spline, I just replaced the side gears (drivers) with 31 spline versions and was good to go.....I only paid around $50 or so for the parts (back in '98)...they're quite a bit more now but, still a hell of a lot cheaper than replacing the whole unit.

With the Bronco/F150 tapered roller bearings you have the added benefit of them being bathed in the rear end's gear oil making them virtually maintenance free...other than normal oil changes.

So, if you're paying to have the shafts shortened, spend the extra $150 or so (price of the drivers last I checked) and enjoy a big upgrade in strength, (those bearings will last a lot longer) and peace of mind.....just my opinion though :)

And $125 a piece for cut and respline is too expensive, Currie will do it for $85 IIRC

Hans
 
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Chromo axles are not "too hard" and therefor not strong.. thats crazy talk. You won't find a competition rig without chromo (or 300M) axles in it. If it were not the absolute best way to go, they wouldn't be doign it.

I'd spend the cash for chromo shafts. Call up RWK or National Drivetrain and see what kind of deal you can get. You're already spending $250 to put stock shafts back in - investigate what it would take to get a real axle in there.
If I go stock then it's only 120 + bearing because the other side is good.
 
i was thinking they said "too hard" as in they dont have as much torsional twist as a stock shaft, making them a little harder on the locker and gears. not that i think that, that's just how i read it.
I'm shure that's what he meant. He said (made me believe) I'd be replacing axles all the time if I didn't change to a 31 spline. He also said the chrome molies would break because of the greater torque on rear axles so I assumed they are stronger yet more brittle (oxymoron). I would have just gone with the mollies till he said that?:roflmao:
 
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78-79 Bronco/F150 are 31 spline not 28 so, that wasn't what you had in there (they would have been tapered roller bearing as well).....maybe F100.

As for having to buy a new locker, you really don't have to.....when I converted my early Bronco to 31 spline, I just replaced the side gears (drivers) with 31 spline versions and was good to go.....I only paid around $50 or so for the parts (back in '98)...they're quite a bit more now but, still a hell of a lot cheaper than replacing the whole unit.
Sorry maybe you missed the 1st part of the Thread That was Currie's price 120.00 cut and respline per my phone conversation with a sales person I won't mention to avoid any repercussions on him! And as for the 28 31 splined Fords they did a lot of weird shit just look at their front ends F150 Supercabs had leaf fronts but not regular cab. 3 different front axle strengths available 289 with five hole and 6 hole bell housings. Torinos with 28 splined big blocks on and on and on.

With the Bronco/F150 tapered roller bearings you have the added benefit of them being bathed in the rear end's gear oil making them virtually maintenance free...other than normal oil changes.

So, if you're paying to have the shafts shortened, spend the extra $150 or so (price of the drivers last I checked) and enjoy a big upgrade in strength, (those bearings will last a lot longer) and peace of mind.....just my opinion though :)

And $125 a piece for cut and respline is too expensive, Currie will do it for $85 IIRC

Hans
 
Sorry maybe you missed the 1st part of the Thread: " I was told by a Currie sales person that Chrome moly is too hard for the rear axle." That was Currie's price 120.00 cut and respline per my phone conversation with a sales person I won't mention to avoid any repercussions on him! And as for the 28 31 splined Fords they did a lot of weird shit just look at their front ends F150 Supercabs had leaf fronts but not regular cab. 3 different front axle strengths available on the F250 for the Dana 44. 289 with five hole and 6 hole bell housings (early later). Torinos with 28 splined axles with big blocks motors on and on and on. Yes they WERE tapered roller bearings now sealed units. I did not mean to get a feud going I just wanted some new era outside experience other than my 40 years of old fashion wheeling. Maybe I'll just :hang: myself!
 
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Yeah someone at currie fed you a line, probably because they didnt have chromo rear axles available..

other vendors do. ;)
 
Yeah someone at currie fed you a line, probably because they didnt have chromo rear axles available..

other vendors do. ;)
makes me glad i decided to build my own housing.....




Robert/rwk haus will hook you up.
 
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