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AW4 Electrical issues have me stumped

M50B06

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Stow, Ohio
Hello all, I am new here. I came across this forum while doing some searching for a problem I am having, and after 4 days of searching (and alot of info later) I am stumped and asking help. I have tried searching, have learned alot and seem to be going in the right direction, but still lost. So, while I continue to search, I am going to ask for second opinions.

Culprit is a 1995 XJ with the AW4 transmission, Straight Six, and 102Kmiles on the clock.

Problem
When cold, the jeep runs as it should. Once it starts to warm up is when the problems start.
-When in D, from a stop, it will not accelerate, or very slowly if it does, almost as if stuck in D
-When in 3, from a stop, it will not accelerate, or very slowly if it does, almost as if stuck in 3.
-When in 1-2, from a stop, it will accelerate as it should. I can manually shift it and it drives fine.

Alot of searching later, and checking, this is what I have found.
-TPS sensor was replaced maybe 2 months ago (had similar problems, but also had horrible idle)
-Checked the kickdown cable-I think it's right.
-Fluid has been changed and is at correct level (this jeep is primarily used for trail riding and occasionally finds the deep water holes. All fluids changed often)
-With TCM disconnected it drives as it should without the TCM, 1-2 only does 1st, 3rd is 3rd and D is D. Manually shifts with no problems.

Now for the interesting part. I started checking the electrical side of things.
--Checking with the TCM disconnected from the plug
D7-C14 when cold shows about 12.9 ohms and when warm shows about 15.2 ohms
D7-C15 when cold shows about 37 ohms and when warm shows about 19.9 ohms
D7-C16 when cold shows about 22.2 ohms and when warm is open

--When checking from the 7 pin connector by the tranny dipstick (TCM reconnected)
On the bottom 4 pin side
-Solenoid 3 when cold is about 12.9 and when warm shows about 15.2
-Solenoid 2 when cold is about 37 and when warm shows about 19.9
-Solenoid 1 when cold is about 22.2 and when warm shows open
-Continuity is shown from negative battery terminal to each solenoid pin at the connector.

So from the TCM connector to the 7 pin connector all the numbers match, and by these numbers tell me the # 2 and # 1 shift solenoids are bad. What has me in a bind though is from what I have read, when checking the 7 pin connector, on the 3 pin side, the center pin (ground wire to transmission from TCM) should have continuity from negative battery terminal to the center pin. I do not have continuity as I should. This tells me I may have a bad ground wire to the transmission, which I believe could send false ohm readings from the solenoids. With that, I'm not sure I want to condem the solenoids untill I resolve the ground issue.

Looking at the wire harness it appears to be ok to the transmission. Which leads me to my question (after paddeling around the lake). I want to check continuity from the 7 pin connector to the tranmission to see if the ground is broke in the harness or in the tranny. The harness on the tranny appears to go behind a guard and into the tranny. Is this a plug that can somehow be removed to check, or is it sealed internally?

Any help, thoughts, and opinions appreciated. I'm gonna continue searching tomorrow, but if anybody can help me out, or point me in a good direction to search would be appreciated as after all my searching I can't seem to get past this point so far. Till it's fixed looks like I'm driving an automanual on the trails lol
 
Check to make sure you have the correct amperage rated fuses in every fuse slot

The fuses appear to be correct





I have determined the "guard" that the transmission harness goes behind is the transfer case linkage bracket. I am unable to figure out how to remove the bracket to remove the harness-anybody know how to remove this bracket?
 
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