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With the correct tools, is it possible to install a simple 2 or 3 inch lift (96 XJ) by myself? I'm no master wrench turner but can change the turn signal fluid with no problems. I simply don't know anyone in the area that can help! :dunno:
Yeah, that's entirely possible, just read the instructions or search on here if you don't know how to do something.
If this is your first time lifting a Cherokee I'd give yourself a couple days, with experience it only takes a few hours.
I'd also make sure that you have at least 4 jack stands and a decent floor jack, axles aren't the most fun to wrestle around by yourself.
Most importantly, have fun! I usually have to take a few breaks when I'm working on my Cherokee so that I don't smash it with a BFH out of frustration.
Do you have preparatory suggestions? I figure I'll spray ever nut/bolt that needs the come lose the night before with PB blaster. Things like that. I wasn't kidding when I said I don't know anyone that could help me. I mean, my wife can operate a jack etc. but if I run into a situation where the Jeep cannot be driven I'm rather screwed! Being new to a town 400 miles from home is a bitch!
I'd soak every nut and bolt for a few days to a week before your lift, the longer you can do it the better. I'd look into your local Naxja chapter, maybe somebody there can help you out?
Yep, agreed ... totally doable solo. I did all my work so far solo. I would suggest (as above) three - four axle stands and a decent floor jack (I used a 3 ton shop model and a 2 ton small service model) and a couple good prybars and decent sockets up to 7/8" and 18mm in both 1/2" and 3/8". Then a short 2-3' 'breaker' bar. And as suggested soak everything ... I sprayed every other day or so for about three weeks prior. Even still my upper rear shock mounts and a few other less troublesome bolts still snapped. Due to kids, work, and reno's I only got a little here and a little there and the current state took me two weeks (with and actual two days working time). I worked one end at a time rather tha suspend the whole vehicle like some do and after each shift off I made the Vehicle 'driveable' so when I went to work for 8 days a shift, it could be moved (due to reno's) which ate a bit of extra time. The biggest time eater is the waiting for the little parts to arrive.
with a 3" lift if you're not doing the LCA's it'll go a lot simpler. How you do the rear will determine that difficulty but I found the rear more 'akward' and the front more difficult.
i second the advice on a local member! most people here are pretty cool, and will lend a hand. and if you offer some cash, im sure you will find help.
the one thing that is usually a PITA in the xjs, is the leaf spring hanger bolts getting stuck, and breaking the welded nuts inside the frame. you may have to cut the frame to get a new nut in there.. it's happened to almost every jeep ive worked on.
Biggest issue by yourself with no help around can be the weld nuts for the front mount of the leaf springs. They tend to break loose. You can cut a hole into the frame rail to get a wrench in there. I did mine at a friend's garage that had a welder, so we could just cut and weld. You could just add a full length add a leaf and shackles so you don't replace the leaf packs.
I just finished installing my 3.5" lift on my xj by myself and it took me 2 full days. Like everyone else has said soak everything with PB blaster for about a week. Id also recommend find some sort of torch, i used that almost as much as my breaker bars and pry bars.
Also i would recommend doing the rear first because if you run into any problems you and it takes longer then expected you can have it back on the road sooner but with the hot rod look
totally doable. just be sure to be safe, no one is watching your back.
power tools help, but hand tools can get it done.
PB blaster is your friend.
ive done a couple complete axle swaps myself. having an extra hand helps though... even if they arent mechanically inclined. a case of beer can gather them quicker than you think.
I'd soak every nut and bolt for a few days to a week before your lift, the longer you can do it the better. I'd look into your local Naxja chapter, maybe somebody there can help you out?
X2
Lots of PB Blaster, for days before you start.
Pull it all a part first. Then you only have to make one trip to buy all the nuts and bolts that break.
Yeah do it yourself. I've done all mine in the driveway by myself. BP blaster everything!!! The bolts that go into the frame in particular. Big problem is if the leaf spring bolts are rusted to the bushing sleeve. I had to cut the leaf, bushing then the sleeve with a grinder so I didn't break the nut lose in the frame. If you are just doing a full length add a leaf for 2 inches you don't have to take the main leaf out.
I did the 97 by myself (back in 99) in the garage. It was a 4.5" hybrid kit from DPG. Just take your time and expect all of the "normal" issues to happend. Specifically, the captured fasteners for the rear springs tend to break free and spin inside of the frame rails. There are a ton of threads here to help you out.
Also did my DPG 4 inch hybrid lift by myself. I have installed everything on my Jeep by myself (With no help) except for the gears and lockers. I started with PB Blaster about a week out and sprayed every day. I had so much PB Blaster on the ground I had to clean it up prior to tearing apart the Jeep. With my no rust California Jeep, everything came apart without any issues. Even the dreaded rear upper shock mounts unbolted just fine. No torches etc. It can be done. I jacked it up inside and took my time.
I would recommend safety glasses, four good jack stands, good wrenches and sockets, 18 inch breaker bar, patience, electric drill and bits, and a floor jack. The Jeep will need to be off the ground higher than you think.
I started on Friday night of a 3 day weekend and was done by noon Monday. I figure it was about 20 hours total. I have wimpy air tools so I spent a lot of effort breaking bolts loose and and getting the stump out when I twisted them off.
I spent a fair amount of time working on the rear leaf bolts and in the end I ended up building the leafs in place. It was an option because I was going DAK Pack in the rear. I remember that I broke my 21 mm socket and that stopped me for the night
Rear Shock upper mounts and the lower track bar mount come to mind as having broke off and needed to fixed before things could be put back.
A few hints.
Soak everything in PB-Blaster for a week before, maybe longer if you live in the Rust Belt.
A small propane torch and a candle work very well. Heat the bolt /nut up to about 150-170 degrees and touch the wax to it and let the hot bolt melt the wax... No need for a cherry red. Just so the wax readily melts. The crud and rust wicks the wax into the threads and lubricates them. This works amazingly well. I wish I knew this trick when I did the lift the first time.
I now have a brick of that gulf canning wax in my tool box for when it is needed.
I now use just grade 2 bolts on the upper rear shock mounts... I now just drill it out, it is easy because they are grade 2 bolts and then run a tap though the hole. I have never broke an upper shock mount using such cheap bolts.
Make sure you have a good strong ratchet strap for doing it yourself. The rear is easy, but the front track bar is a bear by yourself. The strap will help you get things aligned by yourself. atriot:
