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Suspension upgrades/tuning

souske

souske

NAXJA Forum User
Location
The land of competition
I have been wanting to get my XJ to ride/handle better for some time now, however trying to keep up on this latest run has got me wanting to get going on it.

So far:
Front : Tera ad. UCA's (JJ ont frame end, one rubber bushing, and one JJ on the axle end)
Rough country adj. LCA (JJ on frame end, rubber bushings on axle end)
Bilstein 5100 shocks
Rough Country drop brackets
Prothanes
Rustys 4.5" springs, 3/4" poly pucks

Rear: RE 1462 leafs
Bilstein 5100 shocks
Had RE boomerangs before, now running HD offroad shackle relocators with stock shackles


Ok so, I am definately in need of new coils, as the rustys are too soft, and no longer sitting even. Trying to get my jeep level again, and make it ride better, its currently very stiff.

Considering pulling the shackle relocators back off, as they gave me a bit more lift than I would like. Also planning on adding some full length leaf liners and moly paint on the rear leaves.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Mods: I put this here, as I cant think of a better location. Looking for input on what works on our terrain, crawling and fire roads.
 
If you can find a good deal on Deaver coils, they're awesome. My old RE 5.5s weren't too bad, but they got kinda soft at speed. What's the valving in your shocks? I'm runnin very stiff valving and it keeps the Jeep upright around curves and keeps everything taut over bumps, no wallowing or anything.
 
16" coilovers. :D


i just put on rubicon express 4.5" springs this weekend, seemed pretty decent, maybe a tad soft since i didnt have bump stops so i was bottoming out on something when hitting some small jumps. i think if i had decent bump stops i would be pretty happy with them. i can see them matched with some shocks valved a little slower in the rebound and compression being ok, but im new to jeeps so take that with a grain of salt.
 
Darky said:
If you can find a good deal on Deaver coils, they're awesome. My old RE 5.5s weren't too bad, but they got kinda soft at speed. What's the valving in your shocks? I'm runnin very stiff valving and it keeps the Jeep upright around curves and keeps everything taut over bumps, no wallowing or anything.
Click to expand...
with the 5100's i'm pretty sure he has the same valving as i do, which is crummy with softer springs on go-fast stuff.
 
First, you have to define "ride/handle better." Better for the street? Better for the rocks? Better for going fast?

FYI, Cal and Cracker know there stuff in the suspension area.
The very first thing I would do is get rid of the Rough Coumtry stuff. I've seen too many pics of there stuff breaking to the point that I would never use that brand.

Before I "unbuilt" my XJ, it was great for rock crawling, but sucked on the street. During that process, I ran 33's with 1" of lift and it was great. Keep in mind that my fenders are hacked as much as they could be.

If it wasnt my DD, I would put 35's on it with 3" of lift.

Anywho, what exactly are you looking for?

E
 
Called Bilstein West, they gave me these valving numbers:

Front : 272/36
Rear: 156/58

E: want to stay with 33's, as i dont want to regear again anytime soon.
 
Those should be the same coils I have. They don't hinder flex at all and they handle great at speed and on the road.

I don't think 5100s can be revalved, but if they can, try going stiffer. I'm at 360/80 in my 7100s and I love it. I was afraid that valving would suck for driving or crawling, but on the advice of Goatman, Grimm, CrazyJim, and others, I decided to go for it. They were right, the ride is fine on the street doesn't hinder my flex and is awesome at speed in the dirt.
 
what tire pressure are you running? I run a lower pressure, even at speed it helps reduce the overall vibration and absorb some of the shock. usually around 10 or 12psi In my 33"s

I would not get rid of the relocation brackets. dial in your shackle angle if the rear is packing up on you.

also, uptravel is your friend. where are your travel numbers?
 
I still don't understand what you are trying to accomplish. Is your XJ a trail only or mostly rig? Do you want an all around wheeling rig or a capable full body XJ?

I wasnt suggesting that you go with bigger tires. I was trying to point out that there are many options.

As a side question, "what gear ratio are you running now?"


rockclimber said:
.....

I would not get rid of the relocation brackets. dial in your shackle angle if the rear is packing up on you.

also, uptravel is your friend. where are your travel numbers?
Click to expand...

For the record, I was not suggesting getting rid of drop brackets, just RC stuff. RE's drop brackets will hold up before the unibody does. He can also fab up his own. Also, what do you mean by the up travel comment?

Of course uptravel is good. However, more uptravel is usually better the fast you go. After seeing his rig, Im not sure uptravel is the issue.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, trail use, as well as to and from. It crawls fine, but sucks at speed, whether dirt or street, way too wallowy for me.

Currently running 4.10's w/33's. Unibody has been plated, and cage installed.
 
I know I'm on the other side of the country, but I saw your thread and figured I'd chime in... I'm running all deaver springs and stupid stiff valve 9100s. My old Jeep went from all rustys 3" on hydros, upgraded to RE 3.5 coils, then 255/70 valve 5150s, then finally added a stock xj leaf in the rustys leaf packs over the course of 5 years and 60k miles. I thought that was a pretty good dialed in all around setup until I finished my current xj. I wouldn't swap my springs/shocks for anything.. On Road, slow, fast, whatever. It's perfect.
 
XJLI said:
My old Jeep went from all rustys 3" on hydros, upgraded to RE 3.5 coils, It's perfect.
Click to expand...

This.

I had Rancho coils, then 4.5" RE coils which were extremely soft and finally I am running RE 3.5" coils with some foxes up front valved by Precision Shock Works. Pete is pretty particular/secretive about his valving, so honestly I do not know what they have, but it works. Out back I have an 11 leaf national pack with foxes that need to be valved to work better. Overall, for the amount of up-travel I have, it rides well.

If you are really serious, get a set of rebuild-able shocks, send them to someone who knows what they are doing and you will not regret it. There are some tricks that can be done with the valving to make the shocks soft on the low shock shaft speed stuff and stiffer on the high shock shaft speed stuff which makes a big difference. Look up flutter stacks.
 
Go do your research on coil spring rates. You should notice that the Skyjackers are probably the highest spring rate.

I would get a heavy spring rate coil (probably a 6" skyjacker for your rig) and a heavy valved Bilstein (7100s are ideal) and run it.

Drive julio's rig a tad the next time you are out and you'll experience it first hand on what you want. ;)
 
souske said:
Yeah, trail use, as well as to and from. It crawls fine, but sucks at speed, whether dirt or street, way too wallowy for me.
Click to expand...

Sounds like I need to give you a ride in the MJ.

Next time we are out....
 
Avery do you know the sping rate of the Skyjacker coils and Deaver progressive coils?
 
cracker said:
Sounds like I need to give you a ride in the MJ.

Next time we are out....
Click to expand...
12" coilovers in the front, right? do you remember your corner weight and spring rates, and/or droop %? are you running them behind or on top of the axle?
getting ready to do mine. 770lbs corner weight, was thinking 170lbs/in primary rate, slightly aft of the axle.
 
Vanimal said:
12" coilovers in the front, right? do you remember your corner weight and spring rates, and/or droop %? are you running them behind or on top of the axle?
getting ready to do mine. 770lbs corner weight, was thinking 170lbs/in primary rate, slightly aft of the axle.
Click to expand...

Don't muck up this thread. Start your own
 
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