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Fuel Gauge Doesnt Work, 89 MJ.

iant333

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Guilderland NY
Well I went through and did a full diagnosis too, I just want to check before I bother ordering another gauge cluster if anything else can cause this since the procedure I looked up is rather vague.

The problem is the gauge always reads well past full, like the needle points directly to the right. It has the cheapo cluster with the idiot lights.

AllData says:

*Turn ignition switch to Run position.


*Disconnect fuel gauge sender connector. Gauge needle should move to E.

It stays on full+, no difference

*Connect a jumper between terminal A on two halves of fuel gauge sender connector. Gauge should move to F. If gauge is operating properly, replace sender.

Gauges moves from full+ position to even more full for like a half second then for some reason decides to change direction and goes back down to about 1/2 tank.

*Measure resistance of sender. If resistance is not between 5-105 ohms, replace sender.

The sender is fine, it was replaced a few weeks ago along with the fuel pump. I didn't own the vehicle then so I don't know if it worked before.

*Check for an open between sender connector and gauge.

Resistance along the signal wire from the sender to the gauge is less than 0.5 ohms, 0.49v available at the power contact for the sender (Not sure if this is what it is supposed to be since I couldnt find any spec) and a negligible amount of resistance to ground.



I'm pretty sure there is something wrong with the cluster but I dont want to get a new one if there is an easy fix, anyone had this problem before? Is there something besides the cluster that can cause this issue?
 
yea i'd say there is a problem with the gauge.
 
Needle just stuck?
 
If a new cluster does not work, you have a shorted hot shorted to the signal wire going to the cluster.
 
89 MJ uses a speedo cable, not a signal wire
 
This thread is about the fuel gauge, not the speedometer.
 
curse you brain!!! carry on i'm retarded
 
Clean the ground behind the drivers side tail light.
 
Note from DJ
You might want to try what cruiser54 suggested in this post;
Improving the Instrument Panel Ground
By cruiser54;
The ground point for the complete instrument cluster on your XJ or MJ is located up under the driver’s side dash. If you lie on your back and look up under there with a flashlight, without wearing a hat, you will see a black wire attached to a shiny piece of metal almost directly above the hood release knob. The screw will have either a ¼" or 5/16" head on it.
This ground point is responsible for handling the ground circuit for the following items: Dome lamps, Seatbelt and key warning, trans comfort switch, wiper switch, headlamp switch and delay module, fog lamp switch, cargo lamp switch, all instrument panel grounds and illumination, power windows and door locks, cruise control dump valve, and a few more things.
The problem is that where the ground point is located does not have a good contact with the chassis where the ground should be. The solution is simple.
Make up a jumper wire with #10 gauge wire about 10" long. On one end, crimp on a ¼" round wire terminal. On the other end, crimp on a 3/8" round wire terminal.
Remove the screw from the existing ground wire and attach the small terminal of your jumper so that the original wire and your new jumper share the same attaching point, one over the other.
Look above the driver’s side plastic kick panel just forward of the top of the hood release knob. You will see an 8mm stud there. Attach the large terminal end there with a washer and nut over it tightened securely.
**Special note for Comanche owners: Make your jumper wire 12" long and attach it on the driver’s side kick panel close to the fusebox on the 8mm stud.**
 
Revised 11-28-2011
Information from Post # 26 by cruiser54
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1072534&page=2
 
Last edited:
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