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JK axle vs XJ axle w/WJ outers...

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XJRocket

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Beaverton, OR
I am building a new XJ. It will be a Weekend warrior with 90% of its time spent on road. It will be getting a 4.5" long arm and 33s, but the Jeep i got smacked a bridge abutment and it bent both axles. I already had it on a frame rack and was given the all clear. So my question is, should I build a xj/wj hybrid or use a stock JK axle at this point. I want the upper steering arm and the better brakes. I know the JK is 5.9" wider, but I am not too scared as I am gonna run bushwacker cutouts anyway. I was thinking the wider track would help handling on road, but who knows. With the bushwacker cutouts and aftermarket wheels meant for a JK, and 33x12.50, you guys think they would fit under the flares or not?
 
You would have to do a whole lot more to a JK axle to make it fit, than a XJ axle with WJ knuckles/brakes. Even the JK 44 is not a true 44, it uses D30 outers.
What I would do;
D30HP,
WJ Knuckles/ruffstuff crossover steering
truss/upgraded coilbuckets/CA mounts, OTA TB mount
RCV shafts
Eaton E-locker
 
RCV shafts are sweet, but it seems soooo overkill. I managed to break a front gearset when i was open/open. Stock shafts are cheap and plentiful. They are also weaker than the gearset.

Which are you prepared to change on the trail?
 
If you can score JK axles for cheap I'd go that way, otherwise building a stock set of axles for 33s is pretty easy. Bone stock will handle 33s if you don't abuse them, but the gears would suck.
 
It all comes down to "fuses" in the circuit doesn't it? Which parts to use as the break points.

Could always go for a Currie High 9 front end... Yes, yes, I know. They are really only 8.8s.

I am running essentially 33s (P285/75) with 4.56 gears in the 30 and am concerned that it will break after the locker goes in. If I am to dump the axle, it needs to be now, prior to the locker. Problem is the cost of a decent replacement (read improved) axle.
 
the addition of a full case locker will actually give you a bit more strength. the stock carrier is a noodle, and deflection is probably the biggest killer of ring gears in the D30. also adding a stout diff cover, and truss will help as well.

JK axles are a big step up, especially D44s, especially if your not wanting full width, compared to our stock axles. the wider foot print also helps with bigger tires. people will say they are a marginal upgrade... but think about the aftermarket support their is for JKs. it can be built to handle a lot, even the D30. talk to "rock yacht" on here, about is wagon build.

but i ask you... why do you want a built i fuse? i say build it bullet proof.
 
You can order a bolt in Dana 44 front with an arb geared how you want with chromoly shafts for $2800 from quadratech. Buying a Dana 30, and wj knuckles, rcv's, locker, gears and other items will put you very close to that price, and you will have to do all the work. I would never spend that kind of money to run 33's, as a spartan locker, gears and stock shafts did the job very well until I went 35's and started breaking parts. The jb4x4 bracket allows wj style steering for $150 and bolts on. I can't see dumping thousands of dollars in to any axle, but I'm a cheap ass. My hp44 front cost me $150, has 4.10 gear and welded spiders. The warn premium lockouts are my poor mans version of a selectable locker. With the ballistic fab brackets, I'm $300 into this front end and it has been holding up to 35's no problem.
 
JK axles over regular 30.8.25or 44 but they need Fab work to be completely bolt in. JK 30/44 combos have slightly larger R&P's this making them a bit stronger.
 
zachandandy said:
You can order a bolt in Dana 44 front with an arb geared how you want with chromoly shafts for $2800 from quadratech. Buying a Dana 30, and wj knuckles, rcv's, locker, gears and other items will put you very close to that price, and you will have to do all the work. I would never spend that kind of money to run 33's, as a spartan locker, gears and stock shafts did the job very well until I went 35's and started breaking parts. The jb4x4 bracket allows wj style steering for $150 and bolts on. I can't see dumping thousands of dollars in to any axle, but I'm a cheap ass. My hp44 front cost me $150, has 4.10 gear and welded spiders. The warn premium lockouts are my poor mans version of a selectable locker. With the ballistic fab brackets, I'm $300 into this front end and it has been holding up to 35's no problem.
Click to expand...

But those are low pinion and reuse your dana 30 outers....
 
The op has a dana 30, I assume with good outers. The jk and wj outers mentioned are both dana 30 as well. If i were going to dump that kind of cash on an axle, it would be a dana 60 at the least. If you never plan to go bigger than 33's, I wouldn't even consider dropping a grand on rcv's. Some people say overbuild, I say it's often more just overspend.
 
Unfortunately, there are a number of parts that you can't build or skimp on and are forced to pay for if you want them. Sure, you can weld your spiders, but that's only advisable sometimes. I wouldn't weld D30 spiders, then you're left with the weak carrier. Some people prefer to have a fuse so they can fix the borken shaft easily, others prefer to have shafts that are unlikely to break and build the rest of the axle to be similarly strong. Me? I'm in the second group. I'd rather wheel on the trails than wrench. Hence why I have alloy shafts but an open diff. Not enouh money to afford a full case locker yet (plus not decided on keeping the D30 anyways), so I'm not going to lock it until I can be fairly sure it won't break. Bust your rig on the trail and it can ruin your day and likely will not endear you to the people behind if, especially if it happens often...
 
Darky said:
Unfortunately, there are a number of parts that you can't build or skimp on and are forced to pay for if you want them. Sure, you can weld your spiders, but that's only advisable sometimes. I wouldn't weld D30 spiders, then you're left with the weak carrier. Some people prefer to have a fuse so they can fix the borken shaft easily, others prefer to have shafts that are unlikely to break and build the rest of the axle to be similarly strong. Me? I'm in the second group. I'd rather wheel on the trails than wrench. Hence why I have alloy shafts but an open diff. Not enouh money to afford a full case locker yet (plus not decided on keeping the D30 anyways), so I'm not going to lock it until I can be fairly sure it won't break. Bust your rig on the trail and it can ruin your day and likely will not endear you to the people behind if, especially if it happens often...
Click to expand...
you can always be like me, i just broke a chromoly inner shaft at the splines before i broke my ring and pinion, carrier, or lunchbox locker LOL
just seems like it's the luck of the draw with braking shit so far.
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
the low pinion aspect is not the weak link of these 44s.
the problem is the D30 outers and unit bearings.

but i think its cal who claims that the d44 outers or stubs are weaker than the d30 stuff. i have zero info one way or another for this.
Click to expand...

Either way I wouldnt drop 2800 in a low pinion 44 using dana 30 outers with the same size u joint I have now..
 
Johnnie Walker said:
Even the JK 44 is not a true 44, it uses D30 outers.
Click to expand...
So are you saying that a D44 out of a F-250 isn't a "true" 44, because it has the same u-joints and ball joints as a D30?

Of course the JK44 is a true 44 and in some ways its stronger than the traditional 44's. I think you might be speaking about the TJ Rubicon 44 which has a LP 44 center section and everything else is Dana 30.

The only thing I see in common with the Dana 30 is the JK 44 uses 27-spline stub shafts. But its the u-joint that usually goes first and takes out the shaft. JK44 u-joints are different (arguably a tad stronger) as are the ball joints, unit bearings, and steering knuckles.
 
Last edited:
If your only running 33's, an hp44 doesn't need built. Buy 1 geared 4.10 for under $200, throw in a lunchbox locker for$300 and go wheel. Brackets are less than $150.
 
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