Link to DRB work-around is dead

Finally got the 2000 4.0 back on the road after a series of delays. New head, cam, pumps, thermostat - and it fired right up on the first try.

Ran at 1500 rpm for 10 minutes per advice of machinist to help cam and lifters get acquainted. Then drove around town gently for a few miles.

FSM says after a rebuild to use a DRB tool to get the fuel injection pulses "in sync." A quick search of this forum shows this link to a work-around for those of us who do not own a DRB:

http://motorage.search-autoparts.co...estandard//motorage/292005/169830/article.pdf

The link is dead. Is there another link to a work-around for synchronizing the fuel? I would not be too concerned except that after a few miles the CEL threw a P0138 code. I'm guessing that this could well be related to being a little bit out of sync. When I reinstalled the camshaft position sensor parallel to the crankshaft, it ended up about a half a toothpick off.

I do have access to an OBDII scan tool that the folks at Advance Auto say can read "fuel trim." Can that be used as a substitute for the DRB?

Many thanks to the experts on this forum who have helped get this Jeep back on the road.

summit94

Ps. After getting the code, I replaced the only vacuum hose that was in obvious distress - the one that connects intake manifold to valve cover and appears to include a PCV. Have also replaced the stock injectors with a set of rebuilt 784's. Wiring at and to Bank 1 Sensor 2 appears to be OK.

So I need to forget eyeballing the sensor parallel to the crank and instead center the toothpick?

Yes, with the plug pointing toward the rear.

As I understand the article, Mr. Auto Tech Professor spent a lot of time reading his oscilloscope before he remembered the part of the manual that mentions the toothpick.

But doesn't the FSM protocol just start with the toothpick to get fuel timing into the ballpark and then rely on DRB for fine tuning?

Rather than go through all the steps to find TDC and center the toothpick, I just turned the cam sensor a few degrees counter-clockwise and re-tightened the keeper ring. We shall see if that solves the P0138 code issue.

summit94

Its called proper diagnostics.

Yeah, finding TCD is so hard to do.

I agee Talyn, it might take all of five minutes to find TDC and who has that kind of time to burn?

It took me longer to find and upload that file to my site so he could have it.

OK, it appears that mild sarcasm is fair game on this forum. I'll wait until my 500th or so post before indulging too far in that direction. Maybe you guys have Nomex skin - note sarcasm ;>} - but moving heater hoses, pulling/replacing coil rail, and rotating crank by hand take me more than 5 minutes on a hot engine.

After eyeballing the cam sensor back a few degrees [and again, no tdc set needed for that] I pulled all the 15 amp fuses to make sure none had died. Upon restart no more CEL. Since the XJ had been sitting for 2+ months with winter gas, I filled the tank, got everything heat soaked, and began reading data with my borrowed generic hand held scan tool:

Ambient temperature 65 degrees; coolant temp 205.

Ignition advance [at idle] 10-11 degrees.

Short term fuel trim fluctuated between +3 and -3 on a fairly random pattern. At idle or downhill it was mostly -1-2; uphill +2-2. Where I live there are very few flat stretches of road.

Long term fuel trim was much more stable. Idle or downhill -7-9; uphill -5-7.

Readings taken at 55 mph on rolling terrain; no uphill was steep enough to
force a downshift.

And best of all, no relit CEL.

Do these numbers tell anything useful?

tia,

summit94